Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I took my R32 GTR out to Wakefield for the first time today. Towards the end of the second session, i shifted down to second and hit the gas, and turbos stopped boosting. The car was running completely fine, idling properly, and running like normal, except there was no boost pressure whatsoever. I can still hear the turbos spooling when revving over 3500 rpm, but again no pressure. A couple of guys came and had a look but couldn't find a problem in the engine bay. I'm not sure where to start looking, what do you guys think?

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224024-my-na-gtr/
Share on other sites

So I took my R32 GTR out to Wakefield for the first time today. Towards the end of the second session, i shifted down to second and hit the gas, and turbos stopped boosting. The car was running completely fine, idling properly, and running like normal, except there was no boost pressure whatsoever. I can still hear the turbos spooling when revving over 3500 rpm, but again no pressure. A couple of guys came and had a look but couldn't find a problem in the engine bay. I'm not sure where to start looking, what do you guys think?

Cheers!

You can hear a turbo...but not the other...you have spat a turbine (exhaust) wheel my friend.

upgrade time :ninja:

the above two suggestions are incorrect due to the following...

a split/leaking boost control line would do the opposite and actually give you more boost as the pressure to the actuators would be lower and make them not operate at the desired boost level.

a blown intercooler hose/pipe would give you an overly rich condition and have black fuel smoke pouring out the exhaust and make it nigh impossible to rev over 3500rpm.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224024-my-na-gtr/#findComment-3946004
Share on other sites

Thanks for that guys I think you may be right. there was definitely no black smoke either. We spoke to the guys at Eagle and Raymond and they seem to think the turbines have cracked. Time for an upgrade indeed.

They suggested reconditioned N1s, what do you guys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224024-my-na-gtr/#findComment-3947339
Share on other sites

Thanks for that guys I think you may be right. there was definitely no black smoke either. We spoke to the guys at Eagle and Raymond and they seem to think the turbines have cracked. Time for an upgrade indeed.

They suggested reconditioned N1s, what do you guys think?

2860-7's or -5's depending on your power goal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224024-my-na-gtr/#findComment-3947421
Share on other sites

2860-7's or -5's depending on your power goal

Well i'm mainly doing trackwork so i'm looking for response rather than big HP.

Hopefully its not the turbos, don't want to fork out the cash just yet and i'm pretty happy with the job they are doing so far (other than not working obviously :)). I'll let you guys know what I find.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224024-my-na-gtr/#findComment-3947765
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok guys just got it back from the mechanics. Turns out it was the turbos, but also the inlet manifold gaskets needed replacing, so I had that done, but am yet to make a decision about the turbos.

I've been told to go for ball-bearing N1's, or change the setup to single turbo.

For a reliable weekend circuit car, what would you recommend?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224024-my-na-gtr/#findComment-3989398
Share on other sites

Hey guys, I decided to stick with the twin turbo setup. I'm about to put down an order for 2860-7's, and I just wanted to get a few facts straight.

These are bolt-ons correct?

How much HP will they be good for on an engine with stock internals?

What else would i need to get the full capacity out of them?

And when comparing the 2860-7's or -5's, its my understanding that the -7s spool up quicker with less lag (more responsive), so what are -5s good for?

As I said before, i'm mainly after response, so would this be the way to go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224024-my-na-gtr/#findComment-3996396
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have engineer in my job title One of or motto's though is "we make and we break"
    • This is actually 2 whole different trains of thought that need to be addressed separately. No, as Matt says above, "Engineer" is not a directly protected title. A lot of guys who just do mechanical design via CAD, with or without even some sort of associate diploma in engineering, often have the job title of "Design Engineer". A train driver can probably still describe themselves as an engineer. But, to usefully get employment with anyone as a proper engineer, you're going to have to have at least the necessary and relevant degree qualification. You're not going to get a job as an electrical engineer if you have a chem eng degree, unless you can demonstrate x number of years of working in that capacity, sufficient knowledge, etc. Having the degree is at least in indication that you've seen the relevant text books, even if you haven't read them (like pretty much the last 10 years of graduates!). To be a self employed engineer.....you could get away with quite a lot pretending that you're suitably qualified, without actually being a proper engineer. But, you will find yourself unable to work for a large section of the client space because a lot demand CVs and capability statements when considering contracting for any engineering work these days. Insurances too. If you're not a proper engineer, it will be much harder to obtain proper PI insurance. Insurance companies have gotten hip to that. The "Professional Engineer" thing is a thing in Australia. If you have the right qualifications and experience you can apply to the relevant engineering top level body (mostly Engineers Australia, the less said about whom, the better), to be assessed and approved as a Chartered Professional Engineer, CPE. There are high bars to get over and a requirement for CPD to maintain it. The RPEQ thing is similar-ish, in that you have to demonstrate and maintain, but the bars are a little lower. It is required to be RPEQ in order to sign off as an engineer on any engineering design in Queensland. The other states haven't fully followed suit yet. There's "engineering" and there's "engineering". Being an engineer that signs off on timber (or even steel) frames for housing projects, council creek crossing bridges, etc, is a flavour of civil engineering that barely warrants the name, description and degree. That would be soul crushing work anyway. Being an automotive engineer working in the space where you have to sign off on modifications to cars and trucks would also be similarly soul crushing. At least partly because of the level of clientelle, their expecations, depths of bank balance, etc. And that brings us to your second question. No, we do not have professional engineers "do vehicle inspections". Well, not the regular roadworthies, etc etc. That's done by mechanics. There might be some vehicle standards engineers at the various state govco inspection stations where cars go to get defects cleared and so on, but that's because they (the cars) are there specifically for defect inspection and clearance and so the stakes are a little higher than on an annual lights and brakes working check. But, if you modify a vehicle in Australia, you have to get it engineered. A suitably qualified (and effectively licensed, which I will get back to) automotive engineer will have to go over the application, advise on what would be required to make the mods legal, supervise some parts of the work, inspect and test the results, and sign off. The "licensed" aspect comes from there being a list of approved engineers to do these things in each state. They have to jump through hoops set up by the govco vehicle standards divisions that mean only the suitably qualified can offer to and approve such mods.
    • It's got a problem Prank... It looks like both washer spray caps have fallen off this car... 😛
    • Meh, it's only got to last another 10 years or so until you'll be forbidden to drive it. Keep it dry and forget about it.
    • The title of Engineer is not protected. However different states have different rules about what an Engineer requires to operate. Engineering for a motor vehicle modification is very different to engineering for a bridge, electronics, etc, including what that engineer needs as certifications.   In Canberra, "Engineer" is the loosest category with basically nothing stopping you calling yourself and engineer and designing a bridge or building. From what I've reviewed, QLD has the strictest requirements through RPEIQ.
×
×
  • Create New...