Rb20det Wont Start.

[LedZepLen]

I just finished a bunch of work on my r32 GTS-T with an RB20det and it wont start. Their is no spark and their is no fuel comming out the injectors. The work i did to the car included the following:

- 4" intercooler

- Front Facing intake manifold

- Greddy TD05 turbo upgrade kit

- my own custom intercooler piping and intake

-TurboSmart boost controller

- NISMO adjustable fuel pressure reg

- NISMO solid shifter

- 6 puck clutch

- 5.3kg flywheel

- Greddy catch can

- Greddy oil filter relocation

- Greddy air breather

- HKS full Superdragger exaust with decat

- Mines instrument cluster upgrade (320km/h speedo, 10,000rpm GTR tach)

- Mines ecu chip (28pin plug very professionally soldered in with stock chip currently in place)

- Battery relocated to trunk with 2 Gauge POWER and 4 Gauge GROUND silver soldered to the factory battery wires (not grounded in trunk??) and this is with a brand new battery. The Battery box also has a Surge Guard custom mounted in it with a battery shut of switch custom mounted to it and the connections to the terminals are gold plated items from Stinger.

It's at my buddies shop and just had the clutch put in as i couldn't do that myself and after the install they couldn't start the car. It would turn over and get no spark or fuel. After checking the voltage to the block he said the starter was grounding out power to the block making the block have a 9.5v reading when it should only have a .5V reading, this should make the computer shut down the injectors and spark for safety. He's retireing this year and has seen it happen 4 times in his entire career and if the starter is the problem then it's #5. Has anyone heard of this??? He gets a reading of 0v from the block with the key in the on position and then when the starter is running he gets a reading of 9.5v when he says it should only be .5v maybe 1.5v tops.

???

I did take the CAS off and painted it up to match the paint of a few other things in the engine bay and this peice on the end of the shaft looked broken (came out smoothly with a tight fit and it only fit in with the shaft in one position. Should this be a problem as i didn't break it to begin with and it was back in the same position as i removed it. Mechanic says it should still run if the CAS was a problem and if it was out of wack it would just run bad.

Whats your guess, were gonna try and switch over the nose from my starter onto a 01' Hyundai accent starter and try it tommorow.

Anyone know because theirs no one who really knows RB's anyone near me. I must get it running so i can punish it for this on the drag strip and parking lots.

??????????

Edited June 16, 2008 by LedZepLen

[GTS4WD]

Quick question..

Did you turn the key all th way?

This exact same problem happened to me after a 25 engine conversion..

Cheak that the fuel lines havent been putt he wrong way around.

There are two blck hoses comming from the driver side from under the firewall (fuel lines) that end up in a black canister that is attatched to the strut tower (from memory.. could be wrong)..

Cheak to see they are the right way around.

But I didnt read the whole post.. so I could be wrong..

Try the key thing again..

[blind_elk]

If the CAS is out of alignment by even one tooth, the engine WILL NOT run - there are probably only 10 teeth to assist with alignment, so one tooth is a BIG mis-alignment. If the half-moon key has been broken from the end of the exhaust cam, there is NO guarantee you can align it back to where it came from. The only way is a good sense of visualisation to align the CAS correctly.

Even with the CAS mis-aligned, you should still have spark and fuel, just not at the right places / times. This tends to suggest the CAS is cactus. You didn't get paint inside it, did you?

[LedZepLen]

no i didn't paint the inside, some very careful tapeing.

Their is fuel in the fuel rail, pump sounds the same as last year, the engine turns over well. The block is getting a posative voltage of 9.5v when the starter is running which could be the starter grounding power to the block that shouldn't be their.

CAS should be inline but i'll sure to keep a mental note of that if the starter is part of the problem and we end up with spark tommorow but not at the right time.

The red light on the computer flashes, does that mean the computers fine.

I just talked to my friend and it's getting over 12V in the engine bay and it stays a bit over 10v when cranking and if i remeber correctly the computer only needs 7v so the 99.9% solution of a bad battery can't be it.

Edited June 16, 2008 by LedZepLen

[LedZepLen]

put a new used starter on todayand the 9v when turning over issue is fixed, got every sensor tested and theirs no signal comming to the little modual ontop of the plug cover to tell the injectors and spark plugs to work so i guess the starter fried the ECU because he popped out the CAS and put that back in and tested the wires and that should be functioning.

Now i just need to wait for my Mines ecu from Japan (i'm gonna run 94 octane with NOS Racing octane booster)

[LedZepLen]

SOB

Well i put my new computer in it and it wont start. It starts and runs on 'Limp Mode' but thats about it. I check for engine codes and it reads "all ok" when i first tried to start it it had "Crank angle sensor" code but when i reset it, it read no codes but "all ok". I have a new fuel pump on the way because we figured it was that before the computer came in as the pump couldn't push fuel past the stock regulator and we have the NISMO one set soft enough that it idles very smoothly in 'Limp Mode' but when set anywhere near stock it shuts down same with if we plugged the MAF back in while running or while off ?(with the occasional sputter). On the weekend the only way we even got a sputter was with the fuel line bypassing the reg and directly into the ruel rail till we tried setting the reg pretty much based on the noise of the pump and got in "limp mode".

Anyone have similar problems or any possible solutions of places to check?? we looked at the pump and it was changed at one point with a walboro one which is what i have ordered and it sounds good but doesn't feed enough fuel right now to start.

Does limp mode just make it run rich enough that it will run without enough pressure for it's normal tune or do i have once again an extremely unique problem??

Held, Advise or Bash this confused enthusiast.

[blind_elk]

How much fuel pressure do you have? You do have it plumbed right-way-round? Having to bypass the reg directly into the rail suggests otherwise - the reg is on the OUTLET side of the rail, ie pump -> filter -> rail / injectors -> reg -> return -> tank

[LedZepLen]

haha

Indeed it was hooked up backwords, started first try.

I took it out and made boost twice in 3rd and pulled damn good on a solid .9bar boost.

Thank you.