R30 197kph in third. (bout 7000 rpm)

[MicksR30]

Hey all, i own a 1984 Skyline Ti L24E (Auto)

The only mods so far are that i have cut a big hole (pretty much the entire nissan logo bit cut out) in the airbox lid, this made a noticable diference to power, and it sounds nuts, i recomend anyone else with this car does this mod.

Anyway, my problem is that when trying to see how fast it would go, it wouldnt shift into fourth, got up to almost 200 in third, (crazy revs!!). It shifts into fourth when i back off, but if i try to accelerate it drops back to third. Anyone else have this problem?

Any ideas or sugestions would be apreciated.

Also, ive been told that an RB series motor is a direct bolt in, if i use an R31 crossmember. Is it that simple, will the RB motor bolt up to my gearbox, could i use a manual gearbox from a R31 Skyline or VL Commadore.

How much more power does a RB30 motor have over my L24E, cause the other day a dragged a manual R31 Sihloutte skyline and kicked his arse.

Any help aprecieted, can we get a forrum just for R30s?

[PHaT MR30]

Hey dude,

I am just about to make up a list for converting an RB into a r30.

rb30 has stock 118Kw at fly from memory

l24e only have about 90-100Kw

but seem to make the power more efficiently?

mates l24e manual drags them too

my l28e manual eats them

in all the L series engines are probably a bit better than the early RBs non DOHC engines

as for your speed i have had mine in 5th go past 200kmh and stop on the needle (about 10-20km past 200kmh) and only be sitting on a bit over 5K revs

i will compile a list for the engine conversion, but i would suggest you save your pennys and not get an RB30. I myself am going with an RB20DET

[R31Nismoid]

Originally posted by PHaT MR30

in all the L series engines are probably a bit better than the early RBs non DOHC engines

???

the 86 NICS motor was a DOHC...

That was the first in the series of RB... along with the RB20et in the passage i believe.

So they do come Twin Cam in the first Gen RB.

[PHaT MR30]

I was talking about the locally sold R31 Vl commodore RB30E single cam 2 valve engine

which is what he had in mind

[MicksR30]

I was origianly planning on a RB20DET and 5 spd manual from a R32, had a price on a half cut at between $2000 and $2500.

Didnt have much info on it, and brought a new mountain bike instead, now i have no cash saved up, so an RB20 is a long way off.

The reason i thaught RB30 is that i can get one real cheap, but im not sure if it would be worth the bother, or money. The main advantage is that when i could afford a RB20DET it would bolt straight in as i would already have the conversion done.

[PHaT MR30]

yeh well the only advantage i guess is the computer is a bit newer and the afm is better, not to mention the extra capacity would help so i guess it would be not a bad idea

[MicksR30]

Do you know anyone that has done this? Im thinking that i would need the RB30 trans aswell, is this a bolt in fit?

Im thinking that if its a simple swap ill consider doing it, just got to find a wreck or something.

[Cubes]

When I had my VL 3ltr NA Manual it used to beat VS v6 Commodores no problems and even used to beat the 5ltr Auto VN-VS commodores off the line (1/4 of a car in front) then would sit even up top.

So i guess it would have been running in the low to mid 15 sec range some where.

I had it dyno'd, throttle body cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc and it made 93rwkw on a DD Dyno.

It had Extractors and exhaust.

I wouldn't waste my time with the RB20DET unless you are looking at a maximum of around 180rwkw as I find they are to laggy for the street. The power isn't that tractable as it snapps and wheel spins easily.

It is fun I guess pulling out of corners in second or over taking people from 60kays and sending your self sideways past them but in all reality i want to have some thing that is easily quick off the line. Hence why a Rebuilt rb30 bottom end and RB25de head with a little bit of porting and cc'd will be getting dropped in soon.

If you don't want to go silly with the internals the bottom end rebuild costs around 1k + the RB25DE head that I picked up for $750 from Adelaide Jap.

Head rebuild is costing around 300 and the head work is around the 450 mark.

The RB25DE VRS kit (inc. all top end gaskets) costs $275 from nissan.

Fuel economy improves quite a bit with the twin cam head..

BUT.. in realistically a RB30E upped compression and wade cam will go pretty hard and chances are will be sitting in the high 14sec range.