Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got my turbo put on, all tuned on 16.5 psi running 251rwk with all supporting mods.

the turbo does hold boost but as soon as u hit 5,000rpm it just hesitates and drops off to 5 psi. can hear a hiss but cant find it.

took my car for a drive tonight and didnt feel as strong at higher rpm.

boosted it again and it got way worse. in 3rd gear soon as i hit full boost car feels like the brakes are being applied and wont rev anymore.

the first couple of times when its just warming up is fine then it does it. boost was dropping down to 4-5 psi.

turbo is new. checked all my hoses and inspected the turbo and its perfect still.

only thing i can think of what i did last week i wasnt paying attention and i ran up a rounded gutter and cracked my front bar. been doing it since then. few days ago

Edited by R33GOD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224398-need-help-r33-gtst-related/
Share on other sites

i have a blitz bov. its atmo

these are my mods

stock internals

hiflowed ball bearing turbo 450hp

splitfires

pfc

blitz fmic

tomei pump

600cc injectors

z32afm

stock intake pipe with k&n air panel filter

full 3in exhaust.

hid boost controller

Edited by R33GOD

have you checked all your pipework? sounds like a leak from something.... try getting under the hood and flicking the throttle cable see if you can hear where the leaks coming from.... as for the car feeling like the brakes have been applied that souds like saftey mode so you dont blow it up....

ok fixed the hose problem but it still drops off boost sometimes.

it only does it when its been thrashed after about 6 times or so.

spoke to my tuner and he thinks it could be my hdi boost controller solenoid getting way too hot. or an actuator issue?

thoughts and experiences if anyones had a ebc prob or actuator prob?

today i further inspected the problem and still couldnt find the prob.

so far i have done a boost leak test.

changed boost controllers

took off front bar inspected cooler and silicon piping

changed all boost line hoses from actuator.

only thing i can think of is maybe the intake pipe is sucking closed.

cause it only does it when u hit the throttle hard on down gear, or at top end as i change hard into 4th. and sometimes 3rd

Edited by R33GOD

it does sound like a boost leak coz at high rpm it drops but if it was it would have given way and popped off hope u work it out! Try connecting a hose straight from the wastegate to the intercooler piping and see what it does then?

ive done everything and soon as the car gets hot after a couple of runs its still doing it.

i done rev210's intake pipe mod also, so i dont know what to do.

only thing i can think of is not enough preload on the actuator. its set to half a hole at the moment.

another theory. if i have faulty plugs and when the car gets real hot would it cause less combustion thus the major boost drop?

mate i had simular prob wif my gtr first noticed it on a trip to melb hit full boost than dropped to half and it would only half boost up after that untill i restarted the car then it was normal again its happined about 3 times now but they have been on really hot days so i just thought it was the ecu in safe mode or something

I'd be doing another boost leak test - if you ran up a gutter and cracked your front bar youve proabbly done somthing to your FMIC or piping. Stick a can of baked beans in the intake and pump it up with an air compressor. make sure you go under the car to listen for leaks too.

I'd be doing another boost leak test - if you ran up a gutter and cracked your front bar youve proabbly done somthing to your FMIC or piping. Stick a can of baked beans in the intake and pump it up with an air compressor. make sure you go under the car to listen for leaks too.

ive taken the fmic out completely and inspected the piping and tanks. they are perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...