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Just a little bit of a tyre example

I have tried several different types of tyres from My Old VS V8 Commodore to the R32 GTS-T skyline I now have.

VS V8 All 225' 50 16"

Goodyear

Extremly slipperly couldn't launch over 1500rpm otherwise there would be basically uncontrollable wheel spin through first with bugger all throttle while a VS V6 OPEN WHEELER would be getting more grip. $??? Came on the car

Bridgestone B530's. Crap tyres. but could get a little more grip than the Goodyears. Loud loud loud. $230each

Kumo's.

Crap Tramlined like hell and no traction same as goodyear. $190each

Barums. Cheap German Tyres. More traction but didn't like the corners soft sidewall. $150 each

I slapped A Set of re-treads on the rear once and I could launch it at 3200rpm with only a slight twitch all the way through first.

Eat alot of auto's off the line easily, esp. the Geniii Auto's

---

R32 GTS-T

205'55'16's had more grip than when I put the Barums on.

Barums = Crap on the skyline.. No Grip lots of wheel spin in first at part throttle. No matter how hard you tried it would be extremly hard not to get wheel spin as different road surfaces changed. 1/4 throttle through first to try and get a decent launch with a short shift to 2nd.

I slapped a set of SIMEX tyres on yesterday and WOW..

Apparently they are a hard compound but have extremely well carcus design which allows them to grip like hell.

Now I can flatten it in first and get no wheel spin with only a slight chirping. AND.. They were only $139 each. Rocco Bro's.

They are apparently really bad in the wet!

Any one after a cheap set of really grippy tyres try the SIMEX you will be extremly surprised. I run 225 50' 16"

  • 1 month later...

Guys I think many of you are missing the point - in MOST cases, people who crap on about lack of traction just have poor clutch/throttle control. You can have some really crap tyres, but it only takes nice smooth throttle control to keep them from spinning. The only exceptions to this would be people with buckets of torque, crap tyres and a button clutch. But that'd be just stupid. If you're talking lack of *lateral* grip, then that's a similar story - you're loading up the tyres too much and/or going too quick into a corner.

This stuff about "you have lack of traction if you can't put 100% of your power down" is utter nonsense. You have lack of throttle control if you're trying to put down more power than your tyres and the road can take. My old Commodore had only 110rwhp, but I could get it to bark up off the throttle in second gear. You can't expect to feed any sort of decent power to the road if you're just burying the foot.

Seeing as so many people are using ridiculous examples, so will I :) Take a top fuel rail - 5500hp and god knows how much torque being put down through two 430mm wide tyres. Obviously this sort of power can't be fed in instantly, they have a seven-stage clutch that gradually feeds the power in, they don't even run under full power until around 2.5 sec into the 4.5 - 5.0 sec run. If it smokes up at half track, it's not because the car is making too much power, it's because they've tried to feed too much power to the track - in other words, they have done something wrong.

Sure, I *can* get my bike to break traction, but it's not because it doesn't have any grip, it's because I've either dropped the clutch or fed in too much power.

On a normal road, fair enough with good throttle/clutch control u can get grip, but a real drag strip is alot different, as i found out yesterday at calder trying to get off the line good and get sum good 60 foot times! The start line is so hard and slipplery that u need sum slick/semi click to get off the line in a rwd car properly!

Originally posted by skyzerr33

what times u pull inasnt

only a 14.5 @98mph with wheel spin and diff bounce until i went into 3rd gear!

I got only 2.3 60 foot time which screwed the time up!

My sitff blistern suspension and 40 profiles dont help!

i can get more grip on a normal road than at calder!

Originally posted by skyzerr33

low profilies aren't the best for drags nor is stiff rear suspension.

if the shocks are ajustable for bounce etc set em up so that they don't bounce back quickly. helps the car squat and put the power down.

tell me about it, i kept hitting my head on the sunroof from all the bouncing during take off!

i didnt go prepared to run, when i got there i thought f*ck it and just entered for the fun of it!

11th october i will b more prepaired when i go again!

Revhead..

That maybe true in your RB25 but I find it pretty much impossible to control throttle in first gear and take off quicker than a VS V6 Commodore with an open wheeler running 205 tyres with the Barums on.

Basically I don't have trouble feeding the throttle on and not spinning the wheels but the launch/acceleration wont be quick.

But I do get where you are comming from.

It really depends on how much power you are making.

i.e a rb20 will be way harder to control 200rwkw that a RB25.

Bah you people know shit when it comes to no rear traction..

buy a ute with no weight at the back.. then u learn of grip issues.. :P

Sure power cars will break traction, but thats price u guys pay for having big turbo's which hit boost like a sledge hammer. If the rest of the car isnt in harmony with it then it won't work.

For those who have downloaded my video's posted in WA section u can see differance between a hypo launch where i can hit 2nd and light up the rears and then when i do a controlled launch and sure its slower but ya get that.. I also spent a day at the drags learning to launch hard via riding the clutch etc.

I run 255/17/40's on the rear Bridgestone B540S's R-compound and 1.5degrees neg camber(track work setup) and i can still get power down.. then again i only drive a commodore eh ;)

my 60' is still 2.151 i know with slicks i can get this down at on the day i drive my r-comps to their limit and mine. So as slip said, alot of its to do with the driver, all u naysayers going on how ud only use X amount of power without opening the throttle.. its a trade off u have to make.. simple :)

thats my 2c from a trevs pov..

Well I kinda lied.. I was able to launch hard enough to sit slightly in front of a R33 GTR with a 5k Launch running the Barums.

Movies on my www site.

It just means that when i hit second the clutch wants to slip.

Previous car was a VS V8 5 Speed with IRS etc.

That was a pig to launch, Bog down or light up (with lots of axle tramp) That also had the camber kit on it set up for traction.

But for some reason it was really gutless below 3000rpm.

That car had major problems with throttle control but I feel it was partly due to the gearing, long first gear.

I was still able to launch it harder than the auto's but it wasn't as predictable and I couldn't do it the same every time.

Skyline launches a lot easier. Bring the revs up and let the clutch out smoothly while slowly feeding the throttle in.

I don't have problems launching, its only when you idle off in first gear with 1/2 throttle then hit boost.

its basically like slamming on the brakes and feeding them on.

Soon I will be making around 210-220rwkw without much more lag than standard. And all up the car owing me around 22-23k.

Sure it will hit hard but thats what an electronic Boost controller is for.. Adjusting boost levels in each gear/speeds.

I ask this...

Have you driven a highly modified (turbo, button/multiple plate clutch, FMIC etc) RWD skyline quickly, and not spun the wheels? (in a straight line, not around a corner).

Not it should be possible... are you able to do it?

I think it is these highly modified cars in question, usually crap tyres and suspension is not in the picture. None of us pay attention to those with their standard cars and crap tyres lighting it up around a corner. A VN commodore will even do that.

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