Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, got some stuff that has to go

A set of S15 rear brake assemblies. Uprights, hubs, discs, calipers, etc. Everything you need for a rear 5-stud conversion on your silvia. Great condition, massive meat on pads, came off mint s15 with low kms. - $350 ono pickup in Sydney

Complete set of SR20det brake pads, calipers and hubs, front assembly comes with uprights. Great upgrade for s13 ca NA's, or for those chasing 4 stud conversion y0. $200 ono pickup in Sydney

S14 front seats, no rails, mint condition. Hug way better than s13 seats, great upgrade, can weld your existing rails to fit. - $200 ono pickup in Sydney

R32 GTR Brake Master Cylinder (BMC 50). A necessity for those looking for a brake upgrade for s13 or for a Skyline with shot BMC. This is abs equipped but can be easily modded for non-abs equipped cars. - $100 ono pickup in Sydney or posted at buyers expense.

2 x SR20det 180sx series 2 front bumpers, pre type-x. One in green, one in black. Green is in good condition, could do with cut and polish, also comes with factory option lower scuff plate (rare), black one has repairable damage and lower lip cut off for fmic. - $100 for the good one, $10 bucks for the damaged one pick up in Sydney

Lower scuff lip for Sr20DET 180sx series 2 front bumper, pre type-x. These are pretty rare from what I've seen, they accentuate the lower lip of the bumper, beef em out a bit and protect the bard from scuffs from the road. - $20 pickup in Sydney

A full set of R33 GTS-T rotors front and rear. Plenty of life left in em, selling due to upgrading to slotted, could do with a machine as there is light surface rust on em, but a bit of wet and dry would do the trick. - $60 a pair or $100 for the lot

An RB20DET Manual Transmission ECU. Standard 22 code ecu for those who need a replacement, a spare, or for an RB20det conversion. Came off a working R32. - $150ono delivered only

A pair of series one R33 headlights. No broken tabs or plastics, tiiiny amount of foggage, otherwise superior condition. - $300ono delivered only

S14a Series two (kouki) tail lights. Both lights and centre panel, in immaculate condition. - $300ono delivered only

IMG_0714.jpg

RB20DETManualEcu2.jpg

2008_0615long0336.jpg

2008_0615long0334.jpg

0a5e_1.jpg

0e11_1.jpg

Edited by ph11ps
  G0DZLR said:
got pics of the GTS-T rotors?

IMG_0679.jpg

IMG_0684.jpg

These are what they looked like when I took them off, I hadn't even driven on em yet, I was gonna clean the surface of the rotors by gently applying the brake while rolling down on a hill with new pads...

Edited by ph11ps
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...