Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What were you trying to find out exactly? (specs or details of the car, build date, accident history, finance owing, etc?) ... some of these things are not possible to find out in the same way as they do in the US, others are quite easy if you have the correct details and/or know how to check?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224457-vin-numbers/#findComment-3952874
Share on other sites

Unfortunately there is no central register of accident repairs or servicing in Japan, so for this sort of information you just have to trust the seller. Obviously some cars will come with service books so that's a good start but make sure you trust the seller as some dodgy exporters will buy blank service books and fill them out then wind back the mileage to appear genuine. As a general rule the Japanese are quite honest and a normal Japanese individual seller will tell you honestly about any accident repairs in most cases, the auction houses will be as honest as possible although sometimes mistakes are made, and it's normally the non-Japanese agents who go there to purchase and export cars who are the ones that do dodgy things and misrepresent cars.

With all of that said, just buy from a good trusted source and get heaps of additional information and/or photos until you are happy with the condition of the car - don't let anyone pressure you into buying before you are comfortable and ask any questions that you have so all of your doubts are answered and you should be good.

If there is a specific car that you are looking at then I might be able to check the information and do a quick history search for you if that would help? .. feel free to private message if you prefer not to make the details public.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224457-vin-numbers/#findComment-3954128
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...