Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20det Sounding Like A Wrx

rad100

By rad100,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

madevo3 Collaborator

madevo3

Posted
Posted

yeah it would piss ya of wouldnt it. yeah my car played up once like that as well but as soon as i put new spitfires in it it was fine. lucky it didnt pop a piston when it sounded like a wrx not a nice feeling when that happens

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
Posted

If it idles fine and under load sounds like a wrx could be the plugs fould up, if it does it at ifle leave it idling and unplug the coilpacks 1 by 1 and wait for the ones that make no difference to the sound and their usualy the dead ones.

nitestalkr Enthusiast

nitestalkr

Posted
Posted

plugs or coils... as you just put new plugs in i would re-check those and the coil harness connection to each coil... also search for the thread which tells you the different colors for different spark plug problems.

If it doesn't idle, wants to stall and cant rev over 2k then its piping... not 100% on rb20 piping but there are a few that you prolly have to take off to get to plugs which would behave like this if not re-connected properly.. so check that..

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

I don't know if anyones explained how to check blown coil packs, I CBF reading the whole thread so I will just tell you what to do

Start the car and let it idle

What you do then is disconnect each coil pack one by one, so one at a time from cylinder 1 to 6

Whats your doing is listening for a change in exhaust note/miss fire and no change

So it will go something like this;

Unplug cylinder 1 coil pack - No change in exhaust note means the coilpack is not firing (stuffed) change in exhaust note means its working fine

Unplug cylinder 2 coil pack - No change in exhaust note means the coilpack is not firing (stuffed) change in exhaust note means its working fine

Unplug cylinder 3 coil pack - No change in exhaust note means the coilpack is not firing (stuffed) change in exhaust note means its working fine

Unplug cylinder 4 coil pack - No change in exhaust note means the coilpack is not firing (stuffed) change in exhaust note means its working fine

Unplug cylinder 5 coil pack - No change in exhaust note means the coilpack is not firing (stuffed) change in exhaust note means its working fine

Unplug cylinder 6 coil pack - No change in exhaust note means the coilpack is not firing (stuffed)

change in exhaust note means its working fine

That should determine if its the coilpack not firing or if its something else

To me it sounds like the coilpacks, if its not maybe try changing the plugs - NGK Coppers BCPR6ES I recommend, pre-gapped to 0.8mm so you can put them straight in

boostin_r33 Collaborator

boostin_r33

Posted
Posted

Is everyone sure it's coils? Does it sound more like a wrx or a lawn mower? dude it may be your turbo gasket from your manifold side! 500 bucks is a bit much to spend if it's not the right thing thats wrong! thats all! and the jjrs a good but really u pay for what u get splitfire just has that reputation and plus the japaneese use them in the 1000hp supercars! so it's saying something :P

TheProDaniel Rising Star

TheProDaniel

Posted
Posted
yeh i got those coppers in atm!

anyone know how the jjr coilpacks compare to the spitfires??

cheers

Spitfires aren't much more and are well trusted. When I was looking I remember reading a few things about the JJR not fitting too well, sure you can find it using search.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • Duncan
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Duncan · Posted

      300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • Murray_Calavera
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...