The Goods On Oils

[PHATR32]

anyone (other than sydneykid) using castrol oils?? getting some Formula R synthetic, 10W60 coming in, and will be trying that.

clock says 110,000 but i bet its more like 210,000ks.

got some cheap 20w50 runnning in it at the moment, only idle, not yet driven and the new oil + filter will be going in on the weekend.

any xp with castrol?

steve

[randominsanity73]

I use Pennzoil 10w30, which is what was recommended by the guy who rebuilt my engine back in March 05. Can't say I have had any problems with it....Just under $30 @ repco for 5 litres. As my car is driven nana-style most of the time (daily driver) and I do alot of km's like this, I tend to change it closer to 10,000km's. Which is between 4 - 5 months of driving for me.

[djr81]

anyone (other than sydneykid) using castrol oils?? getting some Formula R synthetic, 10W60 coming in, and will be trying that.

clock says 110,000 but i bet its more like 210,000ks.

got some cheap 20w50 runnning in it at the moment, only idle, not yet driven and the new oil + filter will be going in on the weekend.

any xp with castrol?

steve

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I pretty much always use Castrol, in a 10W60 - but mostly because I haven't yet installed the oil cooler I bought. The oil gets quite hot at he track, so the 60 high temp viscosity rating makes it attractive. All else being equal, a 5W50 grade is probably a little better matched to the motor. Have nothing -ve to say about Castrol oils.

The thing you need to remember is the rating of the oil. When the GT-R was released, ie late eighties the oil grade was something like SF or SG or thereabouts. Now it is SM or similar. Each change from SF to SG and so on is a quantifiable gain in the protective qualities of the oil. So just about any current oil will be markedly better than what was put in the engine when it was released.

[PHATR32]

i have a oil cooler installed, so the 50 would be beter than a 60? what about the high k's on my engine?

steve

[djr81]

i have a oil cooler installed, so the 50 would be beter than a 60? what about the high k's on my engine?

steve

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, the lower viscosity will give you a slightly lower pumping loss on you motor & make life a bit easier for the oil pump.

Don't worry about the kms - if you are at the point of having too much blow by or rattles or whatever then no oil, no matter how good will help. You can't save a sick engine with an expensive oil. If the motor is still ok then that is all good.

[Trex101]

I use Pennzoil 10w30, which is what was recommended by the guy who rebuilt my engine back in March 05. Can't say I have had any problems with it....Just under $30 @ repco for 5 litres. As my car is driven nana-style most of the time (daily driver) and I do alot of km's like this, I tend to change it closer to 10,000km's. Which is between 4 - 5 months of driving for me.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Is the Pennzoil 10w30 synthetic or mineral? If it's made of mineral than that's not really a good choices for a high temp turbo charge engine. Mineral do shear and have lower HTHS (high temp high shear) figure that synthetic oil plus lower flash point too. In the long run it will coke up your turbo and shorten it's life.

IMO the best choice of oil will be POE base stock; oil like Motul 300V, Redline street oil, Fuchs silkrone. Got excellent HTHS, additives package and higher flash point.

2nd choices will be PAO base stock oil like Mobil 1, RP or Castrol SLX.

Edited February 3, 2006 by Trex101

[2510s]

I use genuine Nissan oil in my GTR. Can't remember the weight, whatever Nissan reccomends. $38 for 5L and a filter and no issues at all, doesn't use a drop.

[cogs]

I get my car serviced at Repco. They used "10w30 Cfx engine oil" at $32.51 for 5L. Doing a search on google this looks to be Fuchs Titan CFX which is apparently a mineral based oil?? Would this be okay?

My car is a NA R33 with RB25DE engine.

[Trex101]

I get my car serviced at Repco. They used "10w30 Cfx engine oil" at $32.51 for 5L. Doing a search on google this looks to be Fuchs Titan CFX which is apparently a mineral based oil?? Would this be okay?

My car is a NA R33 with RB25DE engine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It will be fine for a NA engine, infact any API SL oil like Titan CFX can go 10K OCI with no problem at all.

[SECURITY]

im using Fuchs Tital performance plus (it says synthetic fortified motor oil on it) 15w-40 for my run in.

its not running yet, should i go get some mineral oil for it?

[Trex101]

im using Fuchs Tital performance plus (it says synthetic fortified motor oil on it) 15w-40 for my run in.

its not running yet, should i go get some mineral oil for it?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's a semi so it's ok to run in your engine. Just take note to change the oil out at 500km or max 1k

[TokyoTaxi]

I found that Pennzoil Synthetic had a wider viscousity range that I thought would be suitable for my car as it has quite a few km on it. Quick flow at cold startup & a bit thicker when hot for an older motor.

SAE 5W-50 for about $55. No complaint as yet, but I haven't compared it to the more expensive, harder to get oils. I've been using it for about a year.

.

Same here ! Pennzoil Full Synthetic 5W-50 for the last year or two and no problems. I Use the OEM filters.

I think as long as you don't forget the OEM spec, and work around them, you can't go wrong far wrong.

NISSAN recommend their oil which is 7.5W-30 from memory with 3,000km oil change intervals for a GT-R in Australian conditions. So, anything that has a cold weight of 7.5W or better ( eg 5W or 0W ) and hot weight of 30W or better ( 40W or 50W ) should do the trick.

But like someone has already said, having ENOUGH oil is THE most important thing.

[Topaz]

I did an oil change on saturday using Mobil 1 which is 5W-50

Supercheap had a sale so I picked 5L up for $52 down from $65.

Last oil change they didnt have Mobil 1 so I went with Shell...Extreme... Optimax...Ultimate......Supreme......

I have no Idea, Shell something

[Trex101]

Same here ! Pennzoil Full Synthetic 5W-50 for the last year or two and no problems. I Use the OEM filters.

I think as long as you don't forget the OEM spec, and work around them, you can't go wrong far wrong.

NISSAN recommend their oil which is 7.5W-30 from memory with 3,000km oil change intervals for a GT-R in Australian conditions. So, anything that has a cold weight of 7.5W or better ( eg 5W or 0W ) and hot weight of 30W or better ( 40W or 50W ) should do the trick.

But like someone has already said, having ENOUGH oil is THE most important thing.

It's not really a good idea to use such a wide spread engine oil of 5w50 due to it's high VII content, you should choose the smallest wt spread like 10w30 or 15w40. Currently 5w20, 10w30 or 15w40 oil wt use the least VII in their oil formulation.

http://bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm

[gt-t_r34]

i'm looking at getting some penrite sin series its 15w will that be ok for r32 gtst rb20det?

thanks

[khunjeng]

Redline 5w-30 for me in all my cars...costs more but lasts longer and is much better than all of fthe above...better HTHS rating etc and not going to go into it here there are a few threads on this in the past. in fact their 5W30 has a better HTHS than 0W40 mobil 1...which basically means its protecting ur car better at operating temp than the thicker oil! work that one out...The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40w fully synthetic oils on the market.

50 and 60 ratings are too high and u will loose HP at high revs...but might make ur tappets quiet...

Redline simply make the best product....if not Redline...use the Motul V300 series...bit cheaper and still good.

[Trex101]

Redline 5w-30 for me in all my cars...costs more but lasts longer and is much better than all of fthe above...better HTHS rating etc and not going to go into it here there are a few threads on this in the past. in fact their 5W30 has a better HTHS than 0W40 mobil 1...which basically means its protecting ur car better at operating temp than the thicker oil! work that one out...The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40w fully synthetic oils on the market.

50 and 60 ratings are too high and u will loose HP at high revs...but might make ur tappets quiet...

Redline simply make the best product....if not Redline...use the Motul V300 series...bit cheaper and still good.

How much have you guys been paying for a quart of Redline over here?

[khunjeng]

How much have you guys been paying for a quart of Redline over here?

too f&^king much! u'll spend over $100 each change for sure....it pays to find wholesale sources

[Trex101]

too f&^king much! u'll spend over $100 each change for sure....it pays to find wholesale sources

This is what we are getting for in Spore.

mxtradings

Edited September 10, 2006 by Trex101

[khunjeng]

This is what we are getting for in Spore.

mxtradings

pretty similar with the conversion....I think it was u that put me onto it in the first place! and after doing some research and giving it a go I reckon its def. better (if u can afford it)

Edited May 14, 2006 by khunjeng