The Goods On Oils

[dineth]

turbolight is a pretty average oil. that's why it's so cheap. it's a semi-synthetic oil. the 300V oils are 100%synthetic ester.

I guess it all comes down to personal experinces and opinions, personally my car has run exceptionaly well with turbolight. Just because a oil is resonably priced (and lets face it a lot of the performance oils are marked up) doesnt make it a 'average oil' IMHO. If anything its a good buy specially when you change your oil every 5K's. A quality semi syn is a much better buy than a cheapo fully syn. Its not always clear cut as "aw its 100% syn so it must be better then a semi syn oil" (of course 300v is not a cheapo fully syn - so not having a go at you Beer baron)

The Semi Syn vs Fully Syn argument has been done to death on here and both have good for's and against reasons, but have yet to see a significant reason to use one over the other. Again, it comes down to what people have tried and what they belive makes their car run the best on. Two of the more significant things to consider are: 1, how often you change you oil and 2, what sort of set up your car is (eg daily driver, or track car). So its hard to say one oil is better then another, it all depends on what your cause is. I personaly cant justify paying $80-90 every 2-3 months for racing spec oil when i dont use my car on the track, having said that i wouldnt put any cheap oil in my car just to save a few bucks either. So again, this is why i think Turbolight is good in that, its a good performing oil at a good price.

Beefy: i think a 5W/40 might be a little too thin for a engine thats done over 120 clicks, again IMHO.

Edited June 19, 2006 by dineth

[siksII]

I guess it all comes down to personal experinces and opinions, personally my car has run exceptionaly well with turbolight. Just because a oil is resonably priced (and lets face it a lot of the performance oils are marked up) doesnt make it a 'average oil' IMHO. If anything its a good buy specially when you change your oil every 5K's. A quality semi syn is a much better buy than a cheapo fully syn. Its not always clear cut as "aw its 100% syn so it must be better then a semi syn oil" (of course 300v is not a cheapo fully syn - so not having a go at you Beer baron)

The Semi Syn vs Fully Syn argument has been done to death on here and both have good for's and against reasons, but have yet to see a significant reason to use one over the other. Again, it comes down to what people have tried and what they belive makes their car run the best on.

Beefy: i think a 5W/40 might be a little too thin for a engine thats done over 120 clicks, again IMHO.

i think you should read up a bit more on oils, there are standards regarding oils which make it pretty clear cut why some oils are better than others, in relation to which others are saying turbolight is an average oil, beacuse it IS otherwise it would be specified otherwise.

how do you know your car has run exceptionally well? have you had your engine apart for inspection? have you have a used oil analysis done to see how it is wearing? just because it seems to run well doesnt mean too much.

your not knowing a significant reason for using full synthetic as opposed to a semi shows you dont really know too much about engine oils, so maybe you should listen to the guys who are telling you otherwise

have a read of the links posted in the thread and also have a look at

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

and maybe you might have a different view.

btw i am not against turbolight or anything i use it myself but not because i think its an above average oil.

[Beef]

Beefy: i think a 5W/40 might be a little too thin for a engine thats done over 120 clicks, again IMHO.

ok so maybe Mobil 1 10w/30 viscosity may be better for me?

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Why are you considering Mobil have you read this thread?

[Beef]

Why are you considering Mobil have you read this thread?

yeah... in dribs and drabs....

ok so i have done some major research and i have re-thought my options:

1. Mobil 1 10w/30

2. Motul 4100 Turbo Light 10w/40 Semi-Synthetic

3. Motul 300V 4T Sport 10w/40 Fully Synthetic

My car is a 1994 R33 Skyline with 126,000kms on it with a rebuild performed around the 80,000kms mark.... so its only done approx 46,000kms on the rebuilt engine...

which one is best suited for me. please help me out and give me your advice, it would be much appreciated.

if you want to check what the 2 Motul oils i have chosen go here:

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke01.html

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

I know all those oils I have tested them all. 300V is that different from the other 2 you have selected it leads me to believe you still need to read a little more but nonetheless it leaves the other 2 for dead!!

[siksII]

u cant compare 300v to the others just for the fact that the price is so different!!

turbolight is$45 retail for 5 litres, 300v is $90 for 4 litres!!!!!

[Beef]

F*CK ALL THE OTHER OILS.....

PENRITE 5 FULLY SYNTHETIC 5w/60

This oil out performed all other oils in a comprehensive test carried out by "Street Commodores" including all Motuls, Mobil 1 as well as all Castrols and Valvolines etc... this oil came out on top with "Royal Purple" coming out second best...

anyone used or know anything about this oil... this is the one im getting now, all the others are very very poor in comparasin to this oil as the test showed.

what are your thoughts......

look at the pic for the oil in question

Beef

penrite.bmp

Edited June 20, 2006 by Beef

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Read a post I put up on the page before, I have also tested the new SIN range from penrite and it is the bomb, especially considering the price, it outperfromed Repsoil, Amsoil, royal purple, redline, fuschs, titan in our test some of these oils are the same price for 1ltr as the SIN is for 5, it is thicker though. I read that street commodores test with interest and was glad to see there results replicated our exactly and our testing is pretty agricultural in comparsion but it is testing nonetheless. Both motuls are good oils but in the comparison beef was after i didnt consider the cost as he didnt seem to care so i stand by the fact 300v is still much better than turbolite, which used to be the best oil you could get for the price, we now have a new winner!!

Edited June 21, 2006 by Fitzpatrick Speed Works

[Squishy]

I'm currently running a mixture of Castrol Edge 10W 60 and Lucas in my sick little RB... she runs a bit better then she was on the motul tubolight..

[Beef]

Read a post I put up on the page before, I have also tested the new SIN range from penrite and it is the bomb, especially considering the price, it outperfromed Repsoil, Amsoil, royal purple, redline, fuschs, titan in our test some of these oils are the same price for 1ltr as the SIN is for 5. I read that street commodores test with interest and was glad to see there results replicated our exactly and our testing is pretty agricultural in comparsion but it is testing nonetheless. Both motuls are good oils but in the comparison beef was after i didnt consider the cost as he didnt seem to care so i stand by the fact 300v is still much better than turbolite, which used to be the best oil you could get for the price, we now have a new winner!!

yes very true, This Penrite 5 Fully Synthetic oil appears to be unbeleivabley well performing...

it is the only oil in my mind now, im going to flush out all my old shit Mobil 1 and replace it with a half decent oil....PENRITE 5 Fully Synthetic

anyone else seen this testing carried out by "Street Commodores"....?

Beef

[siksII]

i had a quick look at the specs for the penrite 5 oil

http://www.penrite.com.au/files/WKRXR86PLF...E%20OIL%205.pdf

i dont understand all the figures but from what it looks to me like its way to thick when cold and maybe also a bit too much when warm. (although not doubting its outright protection capabilty in terms of sheer etc.)

wouldnt this result in high wear on cold starts?

can someone explain?

[Beer Baron]

dont forget there is a big difference between 100% synthetic oils. 300V is 100% synthetic ester. some others are not a synthetic ester. from my (very limited!) understanding the synthetic esters are the go.

yes it's pricey. as and for intervals of replacment that is probably hte most important thing, even more so that oil choice. i change my motul chrono 300V probably every 2000kms or less. factory interval for warm climates is i believe 3000kms, and that is for a standard car. if your car is modified past standard it is a good idea to drop that to 2500 or less depending on the type of use (track etc)>

[MrStabby]

anyone else seen this testing carried out by "Street Commodores"....?

Beef

Yeah i saw it, and came to the conclusion it didnt mean much. If you put a heavy diff oil in that test it would have shit all over the other oils from a great hight. That doesnt mean you want to use heavy diff oil in your engine... The oil manufactures do hundreds of different tests, and the big names havent gotten it as wrong at that test might indicate. Mobil runs large banks of smallblock chevs running 24x7 to verify that the theory actually works in practice. That sort of testing is far more informative that the one run in Street Commonbores.

Think about it this way - how much money do you think Mobil et al spends on R&D? Do you really think they would have missed this?

Rgs,

Kot

[Beef]

Yeah i saw it, and came to the conclusion it didnt mean much. If you put a heavy diff oil in that test it would have shit all over the other oils from a great hight. That doesnt mean you want to use heavy diff oil in your engine... The oil manufactures do hundreds of different tests, and the big names havent gotten it as wrong at that test might indicate. Mobil runs large banks of smallblock chevs running 24x7 to verify that the theory actually works in practice. That sort of testing is far more informative that the one run in Street Commonbores.

Think about it this way - how much money do you think Mobil et al spends on R&D? Do you really think they would have missed this?

Rgs,

Kot

ok, obviously you are a fan of the Mobil 1, but can you explain the difference in the two products:

The Mobil1 in the SILVER 5 ltr "Jug" is $54.99 approx for 5 ltrs

the Mobil1 with "SUPER SYN" in the GOLD 5 ltr "Jug" is $74.99 for 5 ltrs approx....

what is better about the GOLD Mobil1 with "SUPER SYN" compared to the normal Mobil1?

Beef

[MrStabby]

factory interval for warm climates is i believe 3000kms, and that is for a standard car. if your car is modified past standard it is a good idea to drop that to 2500 or less depending on the type of use (track etc)>

What's considered "warm" BB?

GTR service manual says 5000kms, but does not specify climate. Thats for oil available 16 years ago. The oils now are far superior. Some say that oil is the most technologically advanced part of the engine.

IMO if you're spending $20+ per litre on oil, it would be well worth getting a used oil analysis (UOA) done rather than aribitarily changing at 2500kms. You might be throwing out good (and expensive) oil unecessarily. The UOA can also provide info on engine condition etc. I *think* there was a group buy for UOAs - $40.

FWIW I know of someone who used to do regular UOAs on his Porsche 928S4 and the oil was still recommended for use after 20,000kms, which is twice the recommended drain interval. A low stressed motor with large oil capacity, but the oil was only a relatively inexpensive Shell Helix.

Rgs,

Kot

[MrStabby]

ok, obviously you are a fan of the Mobil 1, but can you explain the difference in the two products:

The Mobil1 in the SILVER 5 ltr "Jug" is $54.99 approx for 5 ltrs

the Mobil1 with "SUPER SYN" in the GOLD 5 ltr "Jug" is $74.99 for 5 ltrs approx....

what is better about the GOLD Mobil1 with "SUPER SYN" compared to the normal Mobil1?

Beef

I dont know if i'd say i'm a fan, but i'm currently using Delvac 1 5W-40 which is supposed to be good, probably better than some/all of the Mobil 1s. I'll look at Redline next time as they appear to be better oils based on the specs, but if there's a lot more expensive i'll stick to the Delvac, which is costing me $15/lt.

Re the different ones, i dont know - just check out their website and make sure you note the weights - that's the important bit. IMO you dont want to be running a weight of 50 or more (so Mobil 1 5W-50 is out) unless you've got a problem with oil temperature, and if that's the case fix the oil cooling system! ;-)

Rgs,

Kot

[Disko_Tek]

ok i have a 95 33 s1 with 132000kms on the clock. due to be flushed. i have heard valvoline "synthpower" is a good one... but then my dad uses motul...

opinions and whats best weight to use?

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Delvac is a very good oil and always comes out good when we have tested it. Mobil is a petrol company first and foremost never forget this!!! I would always use a dedicated oil company over a fuel company. Penrite, royal purple, red line will have inconsistancy in their oils as there base oil is supplied and there are very tiny variances in the quality whereas mobil can achieve the same product everytime as they can get rid of oils that perfrom differently to their exact specs- ie sell them to another oil company, so at the very least the big company's have a good consistant product.

Getting back to your comparison diff oil would simply sheer off, over heat and not perform anywhere near what some of the other oils did, you cantssay otherwise, so that is a very misleading comment!! Also keep in mind who is doing your large scale testing- their testing their own bloody product then releasing the info of course its going to be a glowing report of themselves you think they would let it be any different! Large companies like mobil shell are driven by operational costs and getting the most they can out of the cheapest products to meet the bare requirements asked of the OEM company's they supply and thats the bottom line!!

[Beer Baron]

What's considered "warm" BB?

GTR service manual says 5000kms, but does not specify climate. Thats for oil available 16 years ago. The oils now are far superior. Some say that oil is the most technologically advanced part of the engine.

IMO if you're spending $20+ per litre on oil, it would be well worth getting a used oil analysis (UOA) done rather than aribitarily changing at 2500kms. You might be throwing out good (and expensive) oil unecessarily. The UOA can also provide info on engine condition etc. I *think* there was a group buy for UOAs - $40.

FWIW I know of someone who used to do regular UOAs on his Porsche 928S4 and the oil was still recommended for use after 20,000kms, which is twice the recommended drain interval. A low stressed motor with large oil capacity, but the oil was only a relatively inexpensive Shell Helix.

Rgs,

Kot

from memory warm climate is somewhere that gets above 30 (not over 40 though) and never below minus 10. or something like that. as they print stuff for europe too. and having just checked what i can lay my hands on here atm it seems i was talking out of my arse. sorry. 5000kms is all i can see here.

the UOA is a good idea for sure. i've done it before and will do it again at the next change (will use the $40 gb too).

but this is for the GTR with a (japanese) rebuilt motor. in the GTST it's 5000kms and cheaper oil.