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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
Good choice on the Castrol, their 0W40 product is also of high quality. PureOnes are also a very good choice, streets ahead of Ryco and I'd say Nissan OEM too.

With the 0w 40 edge the car seems to run 5 degrees cooler than the 10w 60 edge.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

last three changes have been royal purple, turbolite turbolite, i just ordered 3 5l bottles of delvac 1 5w-40 should have them on wednesday ill see how they go. i know its way better than turbolite i just hope its a good choice for the money ~60/5L it seems to be a perfect viscosity for skylines and our climate at least, and everyone seems to regard it very highly..

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I was under the impression the castrol 5w30 and 10w60 is actually a GRP III oil?

And here's an interesting little bit of history..

In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted (edited)
I was under the impression the castrol 5w30 and 10w60 is actually a GRP III oil?

And here's an interesting little bit of history..

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Yah, only Castrol 0w30 aka german castrol are PAO/ester blend. Do you guys have that in Australia? I'll be importing some to Singapore for own use & testing.

German Castrol 0w30

Edited by Trex101
Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Castrol have always been Group III, besides their 0W40 which has been PAO, so I would say they price their 'synthetics' accordingly against Mobil 1. Trex101, we don't get GC down here. Aussies aren't keen on 30 weights.

To explain what I said before, Motul Turbolight is a semisynthetic, not even a Group III which makes it a ripoff at $50 a bottle. You can get Group IIIs such as EDGE 5W30 or Helix Ultra for the same price.

IMPORTD Grand Master

IMPORTD

Posted
Posted

hi guys :O

I've read the whole thread. I'ma girl and just can't get my head around all the tech talk about oils and what the numbers mean. :(

on the stagea forum they recommend Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60 or 0W40... From this thread I'm getting that the castrol 10W60 is not a good choice? I have a 1997 Stagea... help !

Also how many litres would the car take?

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted (edited)
hi guys :O

I've read the whole thread. I'ma girl and just can't get my head around all the tech talk about oils and what the numbers mean. :(

on the stagea forum they recommend Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60 or 0W40... From this thread I'm getting that the castrol 10W60 is not a good choice? I have a 1997 Stagea... help !

Also how many litres would the car take?

We need more infor like mileage, type of driving (heavy or light footer), short or long trip (km) and if there's any oil consumption? Only with all the infor provided then we could give you a better advice.

Edited by Trex101
IMPORTD Grand Master

IMPORTD

Posted
Posted

oops sorry

the car has done just over 70k

I'm a bit of a lead foot

Driven Daily..small trips... with roughly 100k trip a fortnight.

Just drove it over 2000k across the nullabor with no oil consumption.

Oil is black :O

Doing oil change this weekend :( With a bit of help :)

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
oops sorry

the car has done just over 70k

I'm a bit of a lead foot

Driven Daily..small trips... with roughly 100k trip a fortnight.

Just drove it over 2000k across the nullabor with no oil consumption.

Oil is black :(

Doing oil change this weekend :D With a bit of help ;)

A 40wt oil like 5w40 or 10w40 oil will do under this type of condition. Since it's a turbo, at least a PAO base oil would be good. Oh what's your budget for oil?

omagan Apprentice

omagan

Posted
Posted

hi all just joined sau and got my new toy last weekend and i am in the hunt for some info but i will be using penrite hpr 15 on my r33 gts-t for its wide range of protection i used it on my old now 19yo r31 and no oil use and over 350,000ks

but and used it on my 2 cars before that (turbo coridas) they wernt the best but they lived till io sold them

well what is needed is a thin oil which flows easy hence as many have said the 0-20 and less range but not breakdown on high heat like a turbo and aussie conditions are as hot as they come as we all know so 40-60 range is needed for best protection .......

someone correct me if i'm wrong so i use hpr 15-60 becasue it does both well and only about 30 bucks for 5 ltrs

i seen this towards the front of the thread

Engine: Shell Helix Ultra (Synthetic) 15w-50 or 5w-40

Man Tranz: Shell Spirax CX 80w-90

Diff: Shell Spirax AX 80w-90

Power Steering: Shell ATF Dexron III

this written eariler in this thread and i would be thinking go a straight 80 oil for the GB for that should lead to a smoother shift :D

so this weekend its getting a total fuild change for some of this stuff could have been in it since factory so its goin to be engine, GB, diff , clutch, brakes , power steer this will cost me around 100$ but it will be ok for a will know its got good clean oil everywhere

and stageagirl oil $35 and $10 for a filter

IMPORTD Grand Master

IMPORTD

Posted
Posted
A 40wt oil like 5w40 or 10w40 oil will do under this type of condition. Since it's a turbo, at least a PAO base oil would be good. Oh what's your budget for oil?

Up to $100 plus oil filter

How many litres will I need?

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