Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

True but it soooo cheap compared to others and I thought how bad can it be! Oh well back to the mobil 1 - might drop the old owner a message and see what grade he was using as it was working really well !

Ok guys... this morning i put some Royal Purple 10W40 with a new cooper oil filter and this is what i have noticed after 100km/s of driving:

- Car idles MUCH smoother and quieter than when using Castrol R and Nuon (comparing to when oil was first changed with both brands)

- Car warms up much quicker on cold starts than before

- Car starts quicker and easier

- Exhaust note on idle is more deep and is not lumpy/poppy anymore

- Acceleration feels 100 times smoother and responsive than Casrtol R and Nulon

In conclusion, I recommend RP for any RB motor.. over any other oil i have ever used!

ROYAL PURPLE

A+++

Regards,

Sarkis

Ok guys... this morning i put some Royal Purple 10W40 with a new cooper oil filter and this is what i have noticed after 100km/s of driving:

- Car idles MUCH smoother and quieter than when using Castrol R and Nuon (comparing to when oil was first changed with both brands)

- Car warms up much quicker on cold starts than before

- Car starts quicker and easier

- Exhaust note on idle is more deep and is not lumpy/poppy anymore

- Acceleration feels 100 times smoother and responsive than Casrtol R and Nulon

In conclusion, I recommend RP for any RB motor.. over any other oil i have ever used!

ROYAL PURPLE

A+++

Regards,

Sarkis

Sounds like a good choice you made in the end Sarkis, wat mods you running on your 33 and how many kms? The RP is sounding good, now to check on prices of this in Vic.. only one place that is remotely close.

Hey Mark, i just hit 70k and my mods are:

- 3" Split dump ---> Hiflow 4" Steel CAT ----> 3" CAT back with resonator ----> 4" cannon

Dyno'ed 165rw/kw with every thing else STOCK! (7psi) and misfiring coils...

since my dyno i have:

- Replaced coil packs

- Turbotech set to 9psi

it feels that i have gained easily another 10 - 20 rw/kw with the extra boost and fresh coil packs...

Next step:

- FMIC

- APEXi PFC + tune

- Pod with CAI

I will always use RP for every service... highly recommended! Car feels brand new! Its unbelievable the difference it made...

Regards,

Sarkis

Yep use a mineral oil for run-in, definitely. During run-in you actually WANT the engine to wear, and grind off all the high points so it turns smoothly. After a while switch to synth so it doesn't wear out :nuke:

Yea the Castrol 5W30 will be fine, another decent mid level oil is Valvoline SynPower... just make sure you do regular changes every 5000kms or 3 months which ever comes first... personally i would be using a higher quality full synthetic in any turbo motor such as Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Redline and Motul...

Cheers

hey guyss

i got a R32 GTS-T

mild mods, not much

will see how it performs on dyno in 2 weeeks :laugh:>_<:laugh:

not sure wat oil previous owner had as im first owner since japan arrival.

but i get my car tuned by bel garage in syd and they advise elf 10w50

so ive been using this since

its pretty damnn good, havnt had any troubles with it at all.

tell me wat u guys think bout it

Hey Guys,

Just wondering what oil i should be running now that its warming up :)

I think i used to use Castrol Type R synth around this time last year, from memory... does anyone know the weight and viscosity of the Castrol Type R?

I think the mechanic used Penrite 10w60 or 10w70 when he did the timing belt change 5,000km's ago...

10w60 - does that sound ok for summer in a 140,000km+ engine?

Edited by Mr Italy!
Eagle Auto Spares

92 South Gippsland Hwy

DANDENONG

03 9793 5544

Just rang them and they are charging $90 for Royal Purple 10w40. Almost cheaper to buy in Sydney and freight it down haha.

does anyone know the deal with frieghting oil? can u do it through normal post?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
    • The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.
×
×
  • Create New...