Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a side note, if anyone is interested in a group buy for Royal Purple products in Victoria, I've started a thread in the vic section. If there is enough interest I'll organise it, but I'd rather keep it vic only, as it'd be much easier to keep track of, and other states seem to be able to find RP products easily enough.

On a side note, if anyone is interested in a group buy for Royal Purple products in Victoria, I've started a thread in the vic section. If there is enough interest I'll organise it, but I'd rather keep it vic only, as it'd be much easier to keep track of, and other states seem to be able to find RP products easily enough.

How much per quart and min qty required? any more details?

  • 2 weeks later...

cogs, depends on your budget. But something like Castrol Magnatec or Mobil Synth S would do the job.

CCCP, Personally I would say take it back and buy the EDGE 5W30 instead. The 10W60 is pretty damn thick for a stock motor on the street.

cogs, depends on your budget. But something like Castrol Magnatec or Mobil Synth S would do the job.

CCCP, Personally I would say take it back and buy the EDGE 5W30 instead. The 10W60 is pretty damn thick for a stock motor on the street.

I thought its only for modern 4Cyl engines... anyway i ent back and got 5W30! Thanks :laugh:

LOL yes thats what the bottle says but they are just marketing it towards the ricers. Most new cars, 4 cyl or V8s run 5W30s/10W30s these days! In the USA the oil of choice is now the 5W20.

I am currently running Shell Helix 5w40... should I see much fuel economy/better response now that this new oil will be thinner?

You may or may not feel it. Some claim there is no difference. Others comment that a 40wt feels sluggish compared to a 30wt, especially for those who live in cold climates. Different people with different cars... so no guarantees but its definitely not a bad thing! Let us know how it goes...

  • 2 weeks later...
what can thick oil do to your car?

It will cause too much startup wear, once heated up to operating temp there's actually not much difference between a 30wt to a 50wt...

For example let take a look at Mobil 1 0w30 when compare to Mobil 1 15w50EP.

M1 0w30

cSt@40'c = 63.1

cSt@100'c = 11.0

M1 15w50EP

cSt@40'c = 138

cSt@100'c = 18

So at 40'c ambient summer temp, during startup the 0w30 will flow 118% (74.9cSt thinner) faster then the 15w50 but at operating temp the 0w30 oil is only about 7cSt thinner then the 15w50.

Edited by Trex101

There's a major factor people forget with oils and thats environment temperature. After speaking to a guy from motul the 10w-40 is meant to be only good if the temperature is 5-35 degrees and the 15W-50 is for use in 15-50 degrees. So for people in the hotter areas of australia where an average summer day is usually above 35 degrees the 15W-50 would be better. I know people have said that the 10w-60 is not good for street use, and that may be true as the oil doesn't get as hot (compared to track use), but for those in the hotter areas, the oil temp does get up above what it normally would and to save using one oil for winter and one for summer the 10w-60 does cater for all seasons.

There's a major factor people forget with oils and thats environment temperature. After speaking to a guy from motul the 10w-40 is meant to be only good if the temperature is 5-35 degrees and the 15W-50 is for use in 15-50 degrees. So for people in the hotter areas of australia where an average summer day is usually above 35 degrees the 15W-50 would be better. I know people have said that the 10w-60 is not good for street use, and that may be true as the oil doesn't get as hot (compared to track use), but for those in the hotter areas, the oil temp does get up above what it normally would and to save using one oil for winter and one for summer the 10w-60 does cater for all seasons.

It used to be true ambient temperature does plays a big part in old air cool engine but modern water cool engine oil temp just doesn't fluctuate that much be it in summer or winter condition. If you have an accurate after market oil temp gauge, you will find that the temp is pretty constant be it in 0'c or 50'c ambient.

Motul 300v 10w40

cSt@40'c = 89.5

cSt@100'c = 14

VI = 161

Motul 300v 15w50

cSt@40'c = 128.1

cSt@100'c = 17.8

VI = 154

Actual oil temp directly affect the final viscosity, so depends on your avg oil temp and target viscosity needed. You can accurately choose your choice viscosity.

Use the calculator to calculate the Vis at difference oil temp

Viscosity Calculator

Hey Guys

I been using Elf 10w-50 in the R32 gts-t for the past 2 oil changes now and it has been running smooth.

bout $50-$60 a bottle i think, of 5 ltrs from autobarn, not 100% sure though.

No real issues, warms up nicely, does the job, engine runs nice, doesnt overheat

This oil was used on the recomendation of bel garage.

just my 2c

:(

There's a major factor people forget with oils and thats environment temperature. After speaking to a guy from motul the 10w-40 is meant to be only good if the temperature is 5-35 degrees and the 15W-50 is for use in 15-50 degrees. So for people in the hotter areas of australia where an average summer day is usually above 35 degrees the 15W-50 would be better. I know people have said that the 10w-60 is not good for street use, and that may be true as the oil doesn't get as hot (compared to track use), but for those in the hotter areas, the oil temp does get up above what it normally would and to save using one oil for winter and one for summer the 10w-60 does cater for all seasons.

maybe he needs to move into the 20th century...cars are water cooled now LOL oil temp doesn't fluctuate nearly as much anymore under normal driving conditions, i.e. street.

also that has been covered already..so it hasnt been forgotten

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um.... This is not easy. I will have a fiddle with it, but make no promises. I think, given the explicit resistances vs temperature, and your ECU measured voltages, it should be possible to match them up. I will do that by assuming a 5V supply from ECU to sensor, find out how much current would have to flow to produce that voltage, then use that current as a .... nah f**k. That won't work. The supply voltage is fixed, but there's nothing to say that the ECU regulates the current too. Um... I dunno. I guess there's a voltage divider setup in the ECU. As in, there's another resistance between the ECU's sense terminal and ground. That way, as the sensor resistance changes, that's how they get a floating voltage that varies with the temperature, without having to control the current. Give me a minute or 3.
    • *that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula
    • Alright. Exhaust has been looked at, and booked in 'soon'. I'm not 100% convinced it's going to be as good as possible but I'm going to go with it anyway. If I get a reasonable thing that works for 10 years I mean that's twice as long as I've lived with the current one. I have a more pressing issue. I have fixed my MPVI3 (by buying a new one). Excellently, one can wire in analog 0-5v inputs to the ECU itself. I had wideband already via Serial so I also wired it in via the direct input. The idea being I can use the standalone logging without a laptop and have Wideband data in it. The other wire I thought I'd use oil temp. This is where I've gone crazy. HPTuners requires you to implement a formula so you know how much volts = how much temp. This seems relatively simple to me. However I cannot find the scale for this anywhere on the internet, nor decipher how to figure it out without removing the sensor from the car. All I know is that voltage actually goes up as temperature goes down. I am using the actual gauge, so I can see what the temp is. The signal wire has been branched off into the MPVI3. EXAMPLE: 2.68v = 58C 2.7 = 57C 2.74v = 56C 2.8V = 54C 3.06V = 49C 3.18V = 47C 3.37V = 43C I think the gauge is 50-150C. It may be more. It may be less, because I can't find it for the love of f**k. It appears all the information about the gauges I have has been scoured from the internet, but the sender is VDO 320.021 I believe the resistance chart is this How the f**k do I convert this to a voltage? Once I have a voltage... I then have to perform this transform of said voltage to show it in the scanner: https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm @GTSBoy you're probably my only hope here TEST YOUR MIGHT
    • Here’s the updated and installed muse replica nismo ones … very happy with the outcome. Eventhough I painted my whole rear end due to my rich idle lol. 
    • Hmm. I had a good look (w/o searching, because I'm not logging in) and couldn't see it either. I distinctly recall the thread, not many weeks ago. It must have been removed or perhaps put into the back section. If it was in Off Topic you should at least have been able to search it up. So if I'm not hallucinating, it is fairly decently removed.
×
×
  • Create New...