The Goods On Oils

[SS8_Gohan]

i think Castrol Syntrax is another good alternative for the diff.

Nulon Engine Oil Flush. What are you thoughts on this guys? Worthwhile? Waste of time? Just plain dodgy?

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=eof

I believe Martini make a similar product, but damned if i can find the name of it...

[JustinP]

I am about to do my first oil change and I thought I would just spend the money (car is about to spend a session on the dyno getting tuned) and get some Motul 300V. Trouble is it only comes in a 4L bottle - is this enough to do a full oil change in an RB25DET Neo? How much oil do they take?

Also I will need a new filter, are the generic Ryco etc. good enough to use? Do Repco and similar stores stock the suitable oil filters for RB25DET's?

Any help is greatly appreciated as I am hoping to pick up the bits tommorrow!

[JustinP]

Crap - double post

Edited March 12, 2007 by JustinP

[roy33]

i just put mobil 1 0w-40w in my rb25 with 135000kms on it, wot r peoples opion on that? to thin?

[SS8_Gohan]

i can answer this was some first hand experience!

Motul 300V slightly better than Mobil 1 0w40

none-the-less, Mobil 1 is still a very good oil. 0w40 is not too thin, well unless if you have a very old car, or perhaps doing some serious track work. But street driven, Mobil 1 is more than fine

I just did my R34 on saturday, Mobil 1 0w40 (would have gone Motul 300V, but i was doing a rather major service, so next time) and it took 5 quarts. 1 quart = 950ml, roughly. So it took 4.75Litres.

Sorry, but you're going to have to buy another 1L bottle. 5L is about perfect. This was with an oil filter change as well.

I was told to stay clear of Ryco. I used OEM filters on saturday (fuel/air/oil). From Nissan, it was about $11 or $16, can't remember which, but it was cheap. Any dealer will have it in stock as it's not a special "For R34's only" item.

Hope that helps!

Oh, car is running slightly smoother, i'm pretty sure it's quieter as well. The lifters on RB's are usually fairly noisy, but the tapety noise of the lifters has reduced a little. My car seems to be in very good nick the further my mate and i look at it (he's a mechanic). So i don't think i have significant gains to make in terms of 'running better' with a good service. But the Mobil 1 has "smoothed" out the engine somewhat, and has made it quieter as well.

cheers,

daniel

[JustinP]

i can answer this was some first hand experience!

Motul 300V slightly better than Mobil 1 0w40

none-the-less, Mobil 1 is still a very good oil. 0w40 is not too thin, well unless if you have a very old car, or perhaps doing some serious track work. But street driven, Mobil 1 is more than fine

I just did my R34 on saturday, Mobil 1 0w40 (would have gone Motul 300V, but i was doing a rather major service, so next time) and it took 5 quarts. 1 quart = 950ml, roughly. So it took 4.75Litres.

Sorry, but you're going to have to buy another 1L bottle. 5L is about perfect. This was with an oil filter change as well.

I was told to stay clear of Ryco. I used OEM filters on saturday (fuel/air/oil). From Nissan, it was about $11 or $16, can't remember which, but it was cheap. Any dealer will have it in stock as it's not a special "For R34's only" item.

Hope that helps!

Oh, car is running slightly smoother, i'm pretty sure it's quieter as well. The lifters on RB's are usually fairly noisy, but the tapety noise of the lifters has reduced a little. My car seems to be in very good nick the further my mate and i look at it (he's a mechanic). So i don't think i have significant gains to make in terms of 'running better' with a good service. But the Mobil 1 has "smoothed" out the engine somewhat, and has made it quieter as well.

cheers,

daniel

Thanks for that. I think it is so stupid they sell the 300V oil in 4L containers. I know it's probably to make you buy 2 but it's probably just going to make me choose something else instead. Are you sure you can buy 1L bottles of 300V as well?

[SS8_Gohan]

i just assumed you could obviously you can't then.

So looks like it's 6L's for you, and just buy a 4L next time and then start the cycle again, 6L, then 4L, etc

I bought 6 quarts of Mobil 1, but have 1 unopened bottle left over, and some of my Redline oils are left over as well.

So yeah, go 6 this time, and just keep the extra for your next service. 5000km's shouldn't take too long. The oil will keep

cheers,

daniel

EDIT: there are some real oil gurus in this thread, so hopefully i haven't sent you down the wrong path. But i looked into this a fair bit before my service, and i hope i'm passing on knowledge unblemished as it was given to me

[JustinP]

i just assumed you could obviously you can't then.

So looks like it's 6L's for you, and just buy a 4L next time and then start the cycle again, 6L, then 4L, etc

I bought 6 quarts of Mobil 1, but have 1 unopened bottle left over, and some of my Redline oils are left over as well.

So yeah, go 6 this time, and just keep the extra for your next service. 5000km's shouldn't take too long. The oil will keep

cheers,

daniel

EDIT: there are some real oil gurus in this thread, so hopefully i haven't sent you down the wrong path. But i looked into this a fair bit before my service, and i hope i'm passing on knowledge unblemished as it was given to me

Thanks for that. I actually ended up buying 5L of Motul 8100 5W40 100% synth instead. Will do the oil change today

[Angus Smart]

When i get into the monthly supersprints i will start using mineral oil. penzol or something!

i've been recommended by a well expreienced race engine builder

Edited April 17, 2007 by Angus Smart

[djr81]

When i get into the monthly supersprints i will start using mineral oil. penzol or something!

i've been recommended by a well expreienced race engine builder

Don't be silly.

The only reason people occasionally recommend mineral oil is that for reasons partly unknown some synthetic oils do not agree with old fashioned push rod engines. Specifically the cams & cam followers suffer. It is sometimes blamed on the amount of friction modifiers in the synthetics & the large surface areas of the valve train components in push rod V8's.

Old fashioned motors are a world away from your RB whatever. Use a good quality synthetic oil of appropriate viscosity & overfill it if you are going to the track.

[Beer Baron]

When i get into the monthly supersprints i will start using mineral oil. penzol or something!

i've been recommended by a well expreienced race engine builder

lol, andrew, that is one of the funniest things I've read in a while!

Motul Chrono 300V, or the next one up if you are worried.

as for the monthly sprints are you running this sunday at EC? I will be there.

[Beer Baron]

Thanks for that. I actually ended up buying 5L of Motul 8100 5W40 100% synth instead. Will do the oil change today

the motul 8100 is ok, but it's not a full synthetic ester oil like the 300V is.

I know bugger all about anything, but I know the chrono 300V is damn good oil. for the money I think it's well worth it. and yeah, you can buy a 4L and a 2l. then next time you just need a single 4l.

[Beer Baron]

khunjeng, who did your UOA? and how much was it? I'm keen to do one on the GTR, it's due.

[djr81]

lol, andrew, that is one of the funniest things I've read in a while!

Motul Chrono 300V, or the next one up if you are worried.

as for the monthly sprints are you running this sunday at EC? I will be there.

Actually Baron I have had people knock back offers of a top up of Mobil 1 for their old school (in this case Alfa) motor because they were too scared to put a synthetic oil in it. Believe it or not....

[Beer Baron]

yeah, but he's not driving an alfa! he's using RB26 power. which to me means running a mineral oil is nuts.

depends on the car though, you are right. but we are only talking about one type of car here. ftr we use synthetic in our alfa, but it does have a built motor in it.

[STATUS]

stay away from castrol edge and penrite syn 5..... turns to water in rb's.

my 2c's

oh yeah pay no attention to the oil test done in street commodores a few months back which royal purplue won.... it was a crock of shite, they used grease testing rigs to test oils... morons.

Edited April 17, 2007 by URAS

[Rolls]

Care to qualify that ?

[kimbod]

Really , there are no bad oils these days. They are made to API specs . Of course a good synthetic is the way to go.

[HotPlates]

I just had the Motul 300V chrono put in. Engine definately feels smoother. Didn't do much to quieten the tapping sounds though.

What I was most impressed with though was the Red Line light weight Shock Proof gear oil. I would recommend this to anyone with worn syncros and/or gear box notchiness. Think twice before getting a reco box and try this stuff. It's gold!

[Beer Baron]

it works well on good condition boxes too.