The Goods On Oils

[adzR34]

LOL so hey can anyone provide sum info on royal purple for skylines??.. or is it like a super hard thing to get outa people

You know, i can get better wear reading with head and shoulder shampoo then all these oil tested. The chorine in there are a very good extreme pressure additives, it just that when you include it in your engine oil combine with moisture, you will form hydrochloride acid.

[khunjeng]

This article from StreetCommodore is very misleading, this Timken test are only good for grease, not oil. The editor has admitted the test is flawed and not representatives of actual engine condition.

StreetCommodore reply:

http://www.streetforce.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

I concur. THis has been covered many times. I dont put faith in what someone said when they have no credability.

[Yo-Yo]

Hey guys,

been reading the first & last few pages...

I've come to the conclusion that I should go for the mobil 1 0w40 & buy about 5 litres for my car

I have an R34 GT-T with a turbo back exhaust, pod and 60,000K's

Is this a good choice? Still new to the whole D.I.Y service thing

Any info is greatly appreciated guys

[adzR34]

Hey guys,

been reading the first & last few pages...

I've come to the conclusion that I should go for the mobil 1 0w40 & buy about 5 litres for my car

I have an R34 GT-T with a turbo back exhaust, pod and 60,000K's

Is this a good choice? Still new to the whole D.I.Y service thing

Any info is greatly appreciated guys

personally i 'think' the zero wt oils are too light, they recomend from factory 7.5wt... keep in mind our cars are round the 10yr mark so seals do tend to give a little, i would think the 10-30 mobil one would be overall safer.. it might take a little longer to warmup than the zero but... meh

[STATUS]

Some castrol and Penrite facts;

The name comes from Castor oil which is ok, they then turned their hand to esters.... and failed giving synthetics thier bad reputation early on in the piece.. they no longer use ester... it is left to oil professionals.

did you know that castrol/Penrite Sin fully synthetics are actually only partial synthetics? the only full synthetics in australia have to say 100% synthetic on the bottle.... stoopid loop hole in consumer law.

Also to achieve a wide spread of 10-60 (penrite too) you need to add alot of additives these additives are not lubricous therefore actually reduce and dilute the amount of lubricant in the oil....

[Modena]

Some castrol and Penrite facts;

The name comes from Castor oil which is ok, they then turned their hand to esters.... and failed giving synthetics thier bad reputation early on in the piece.. they no longer use ester... it is left to oil professionals.

did you know that castrol/Penrite Sin fully synthetics are actually only partial synthetics? the only full synthetics in australia have to say 100% synthetic on the bottle.... stoopid loop hole in consumer law.

Also to achieve a wide spread of 10-60 (penrite too) you need to add alot of additives these additives are not lubricous therefore actually reduce and dilute the amount of lubricant in the oil....

Where do u get that info from?

[STATUS]

Where do u get that info from?

hehe dont believe me? walk into repco autobarn or supercheap and make a list of all the oils which say 100% synthetic.... you will be suprised you will find 3 or 4 the rest are marketing hype.... you are buying the name or slogan not the oil.

MOBIL 1

MOTUL

NULON (crap though)

REDLINE

Of course there are other boutique brands like AMSOIL etc but they are not available at most outlets.

[Trex101]

(URAS @ 13 Jun 2007, 02:04 PM) *

Some castrol and Penrite facts;

The name comes from Castor oil which is ok, they then turned their hand to esters.... and failed giving synthetics thier bad reputation early on in the piece.. they no longer use ester... it is left to oil professionals.

did you know that castrol/Penrite Sin fully synthetics are actually only partial synthetics? the only full synthetics in australia have to say 100% synthetic on the bottle.... stoopid loop hole in consumer law.

Also to achieve a wide spread of 10-60 (penrite too) you need to add alot of additives these additives are not lubricous therefore actually reduce and dilute the amount of lubricant in the oil....

You got to be joking.

Edited June 13, 2007 by Trex101

[Modena]

You got to be joking.

Trex you seem to know your stuff about oils, is this true?

The other thing, even if Castrol is not 100% synth, I doubt it matters much since most people change their oils 5000-7000 KMs.

[Trex101]

hehe dont believe me? walk into repco autobarn or supercheap and make a list of all the oils which say 100% synthetic.... you will be suprised you will find 3 or 4 the rest are marketing hype.... you are buying the name or slogan not the oil.

MOBIL 1

MOTUL

NULON (crap though)

REDLINE

Of course there are other boutique brands like AMSOIL etc but they are not available at most outlets.

Trex you seem to know your stuff about oils, is this true?

The other thing, even if Castrol is not 100% synth, I doubt it matters much since most people change their oils 5000-7000 KMs.

How do you define 100% Synthetic? Technically, engine oil consist of 70-80% base oil + 20-30% additives carrier fluid. The oil can be call a Fully Synthetic once the base fluid are 100% group III grade & above. The formulation of modern oil is very complex and can't be judge base purely on base fluid (but of course a group IV or V fluid will be more value than group III). A well formulated oil got to have good base fluid couple with strong anti-wear additives package, one can't just work without the other.

Group I - mineral

Group II/II+ - hydrocrak (VI below 120)

Group III - hydrocrack (VI above 120, mineral derive "Fake Synthetic")

Group IV - polyalphaolefin (man made Synthetic)

Group V - Ester & other un-group fluid (Ester or Polyolester, super high grade Synthetic, good for aircraft jet engine).

Well, to answer your question. In my opinion

MOBIL 1 --- are using group IV base fluid aka Fully Synthetic

MOTUL --- depends on type, the 300V are using group V ester base, race spec fully synthetic.

NULON (crap though) --- don't know about this brand but i doubt it good stuffs since they promote PTFE in their oil additives.

REDLINE - group V Polyolester + very overdose of anti-wear additives, race spec fully synthetic.

Edited June 14, 2007 by Trex101

[Cubes]

Which makes the 8100 X-CESS well priced being a grp IV when it goes for $59. Autobarn have jacked their price lately but there's plenty of other places where its available at the usual $59.

[Rolls]

Which makes the 8100 X-CESS well priced being a grp IV when it goes for $59. Autobarn have jacked their price lately but there's plenty of other places where its available at the usual $59.

Where abouts?

[Modena]

How do you define 100% Synthetic? Technically, engine oil consist of 70-80% base oil + 20-30% additives carrier fluid. The oil can be call a Fully Synthetic once the base fluid are 100% group III grade & above. The formulation of modern oil is very complex and can't be judge base purely on base fluid (but of course a group IV or V fluid will be more value than group III). A well formulated oil got to have good base fluid couple with strong anti-wear additives package, one can't just work without the other.

Group I - mineral

Group II/II+ - hydrocrak (VI below 120)

Group III - hydrocrack (VI above 120, mineral derive "Fake Synthetic")

Group IV - polyalphaolefin (man made Synthetic)

Group V - Ester & other un-group fluid (Ester or Polyolester, super high grade Synthetic, good for aircraft jet engine).

Well, to answer your question. In my opinion

MOBIL 1 --- are using group IV base fluid aka Fully Synthetic

MOTUL --- depends on type, the 300V are using group V ester base, race spec fully synthetic.

NULON (crap though) --- don't know about this brand but i doubt it good stuffs since they promote PTFE in their oil additives.

REDLINE - group V Polyolester + very overdose of anti-wear additives, race spec fully synthetic.

So what group does my current oil Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 belong to?

[Cubes]

GRP III

[Modena]

GRP III

Is that crap? lol

[Trex101]

So what group does my current oil Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 belong to?

Not familar with Castrol Edge but the 5w30 could possibly be group III. Only a few Castrol oil type are PAO. The 0wXX type are probably PAO as they need the PAO for such low cranking point.

[Cubes]

Now why would it be crap.

Go do some reasearch for your self.

[Rolls]

I'm sure its better then any oil that was around when your car was made.

[Modena]

I'm sure its better then any oil that was around when your car was made.

Good point.

I guess Im just being cynical.

I first was using Shell Helix Ultra, got told its not that good. Also Ferrari endorses it quiet a bit and their engines are prone to rebuilding often... might have more to do that they dont get driven that much but still.

Then I moved onto Castrol Edge Sport (improved R formula)... I want to stick with it as its rather good value and prior Ive only read good things about Castrol.

I dont want to really pay above 70 bucks for 5 litres of engine oil since my car never sees the track or hard motoring.

[Beer Baron]

the castrol is a cheap oil. group III base. if you want a good oil you have to pay more for it. it's that simple. the castrol you pay for marketing, motorsport involvement etc, and a bit of your money goes to developing oil, but it's still a cheap oil, and in my view poor value. but again its' a simple equation. good oil costs more than worse oil.

personally I think if you care about your engine and like to give it the old spanking then a IV or a V is the go. I use motul chrono 300V. costs a lot, but to me it's worth every cent. oil is one of the most important ingredients to a happy car. in my mind it's right up there with tyres as the biggest thing people underspend on. I say you can never spend too much $$ on good tyres, or good oil.