Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wait a minite the 300v is a 15-50w oil..pretty thick for performance only?.....would you reccomend that for standard street use?

i have used used mobil 1 5-50w and found it unimpressive .

nexy will be 0-40 w mobil1 synth for sure...will probably stick with it

Motul 300V comes in a few varieties, I don't know why you would use 15w50 in a street driven skyline.

Maybe 5w30 or 5w40 on the street would make more sense in my opinion.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I guess this is a lubricant question of sorts...

anyone have any recommendations for power steering fluid? I've got steering rack binding issues with my R34, and it's really not nice, almost like constant understeer.

Before i go into serious hardware mods to fix the problem, i was going to start with a top-notch power steering fluid as it might just be a over-heating issue for the current fluid.

Don't mind spending decent $$ for this. Harold from plub.com has pointed me in the direction of Redline ATF (so a transmission fluid) which sounds like might be what i'm after, but keen to know what the best power steering fluid you can get is?

cheers,

daniel

I guess this is a lubricant question of sorts...

anyone have any recommendations for power steering fluid? I've got steering rack binding issues with my R34, and it's really not nice, almost like constant understeer.

Before i go into serious hardware mods to fix the problem, i was going to start with a top-notch power steering fluid as it might just be a over-heating issue for the current fluid.

Don't mind spending decent $$ for this. Harold from plub.com has pointed me in the direction of Redline ATF (so a transmission fluid) which sounds like might be what i'm after, but keen to know what the best power steering fluid you can get is?

cheers,

daniel

Yes, Harold is right. Power steering fluid are in fact hydraulic fluid like ATF, so any Dexron III ATF will worked as power steering fluid.

I can undwerstand after readiing all these that Fullsynthetic is the way to go for TURBO engine, how about RB25 NON-TURBO? my GTS4 non-turbo (RB25DE) has done 112 000KM, and thinking wich oil to go for, at the moment using elf 15w-something but idleing not that good.

Is full synthetic good for NON-Turbo cars? (Given that Money is not an issue ) if so which viscosity 5w-30? 5w-40? etc

Cheers

I can undwerstand after readiing all these that Fullsynthetic is the way to go for TURBO engine, how about RB25 NON-TURBO? my GTS4 non-turbo (RB25DE) has done 112 000KM, and thinking wich oil to go for, at the moment using elf 15w-something but idleing not that good.

Is full synthetic good for NON-Turbo cars? (Given that Money is not an issue ) if so which viscosity 5w-30? 5w-40? etc

Cheers

When the car shutsdown the sythetic type oil thickens less than mineral based oils of the same weight and therefore there is less stress on the engine at startup (better lubrication), where a high percentage of engine wear occurs. Whether it’s a turbo or non turbo car it really doesn’t matter all that much. Stick with the latest API/SAE ratings of SL & SM as these are a far better oil than the SJ oil that was recommended in the early 90’s. I would also recommend a 0w-40 or 5w-40 oil. I still don’t get why people insist on putting in a 10w-40, 15w-40 etc in a street driven car as these oils are way to thick to provide proper lubrication at startup. Hence why you can now buy 0w oils as the oil companies have realised that the lower the weight at startup is way better for the engine. Even though a 0w is still too thick for an engine at startup but its thinner and provides better lubrication than a 5w,10w,20w etc. Since its an old car i would go for a 0w-40 or 5w-40 if the manufacture recommends a x-30 oil.

When the car shutsdown the sythetic type oil thickens less than mineral based oils of the same weight and therefore there is less stress on the engine at startup (better lubrication), where a high percentage of engine wear occurs. Whether it’s a turbo or non turbo car it really doesn’t matter all that much. Stick with the latest API/SAE ratings of SL & SM as these are a far better oil than the SJ oil that was recommended in the early 90’s. I would also recommend a 0w-40 or 5w-40 oil. I still don’t get why people insist on putting in a 10w-40, 15w-40 etc in a street driven car as these oils are way to thick to provide proper lubrication at startup. Hence why you can now buy 0w oils as the oil companies have realised that the lower the weight at startup is way better for the engine. Even though a 0w is still too thick for an engine at startup but its thinner and provides better lubrication than a 5w,10w,20w etc. Since its an old car i would go for a 0w-40 or 5w-40 if the manufacture recommends a x-30 oil.

Mmmmm ic, was in contact with the comnay who brings he REPSOL oil to australia today, (Iknow they are very good quality oil) unfortunately its not available over the counter for dy to day ppl, only registered mechanic shop can buy it from them, but the guy from sales team advised that he will try his best to get me a place if there any in NSW which I can get it off the counter, so far no good news.

I was using repsol 5w-40 when I gave my car to service every six months to mech in five dock, charge $250 and I could seeonly thing they do is changing oil thats all, doggy ppl, so wanna do it my self...

if I cant get the repsol full syn 5w-40 then thinking of going for Motul 300v 5w-40 or Penrite 5w-40?

some say since the car is old i should be using a bit thicker oil like 15w-40 etc which confuce me...........

well full synth is tha way to go for NON-TUrbo cars as well then hey......... :cheers:

Cheers

anyone know of a good place to get Transmax Z??

i've tried AutoBarn, Super Cheap, Repco. AutoBarn don't, Super Cheap do (sold out at my nearby stores) Repco do as well..

BUT these guys only sell in 4 litres, i only need about 1 litre i reckon for power steering fluid. 4 litres = $72

Harold doesn't sell it and i can't seem to find an online shop for it either. Anyone have any other suggestions or places they know sell 1 litre bottles? I may have to just get the 4 litre one

anyone know of a good place to get Transmax Z??

i've tried AutoBarn, Super Cheap, Repco. AutoBarn don't, Super Cheap do (sold out at my nearby stores) Repco do as well..

BUT these guys only sell in 4 litres, i only need about 1 litre i reckon for power steering fluid. 4 litres = $72

Harold doesn't sell it and i can't seem to find an online shop for it either. Anyone have any other suggestions or places they know sell 1 litre bottles? I may have to just get the 4 litre one

Yes Transmax z only comes in 4 litre bottles and priced around $70 bucks... you want the best, pay for it :D I had to buy around 4 of those suckers when I did my auto tranny service last year... and no.. it was not cheap at all.

Mmmmm ic, was in contact with the comnay who brings he REPSOL oil to australia today, (Iknow they are very good quality oil) unfortunately its not available over the counter for dy to day ppl, only registered mechanic shop can buy it from them, but the guy from sales team advised that he will try his best to get me a place if there any in NSW which I can get it off the counter, so far no good news.

I was using repsol 5w-40 when I gave my car to service every six months to mech in five dock, charge $250 and I could seeonly thing they do is changing oil thats all, doggy ppl, so wanna do it my self...

if I cant get the repsol full syn 5w-40 then thinking of going for Motul 300v 5w-40 or Penrite 5w-40?

some say since the car is old i should be using a bit thicker oil like 15w-40 etc which confuce me...........

well full synth is tha way to go for NON-TUrbo cars as well then hey......... :)

Cheers

SkyKC, All manufacturers I have seen are specifying 0W-XX or 5W-XX oils now. Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0 or 5W-XX oil to mention a few. These are appropriate for all engines of all ages of all levels of wear. This second number is the only thing that may change with an older, lose or worn engine. I have heard that oils labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. Motul 300V says its for racing cars not sure if its for RACING ONLY. Try German Castrol 5w-40 you can buy it from Harold from Performancelub (i think thats the name) its a good oil. I have recently put German Castrol 0w-30 in my WRX and it seems to love it and the engine is so quite. I guess you have to experiment to find the correct oil then stick with it.

If your still confused and feel like learning more on oils either goto http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html (HIGHLY RECOMMEND reading this although a little long but you can skip some chapters)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

SkyKC, All manufacturers I have seen are specifying 0W-XX or 5W-XX oils now. Honda, Ferrari, Ford, Mercedes, Porsche, and others specify a 0 or 5W-XX oil to mention a few. These are appropriate for all engines of all ages of all levels of wear. This second number is the only thing that may change with an older, lose or worn engine. I have heard that oils labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. Motul 300V says its for racing cars not sure if its for RACING ONLY. Try German Castrol 5w-40 you can buy it from Harold from Performancelub (i think thats the name) its a good oil. I have recently put German Castrol 0w-30 in my WRX and it seems to love it and the engine is so quite. I guess you have to experiment to find the correct oil then stick with it.

If your still confused and feel like learning more on oils either goto http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html (HIGHLY RECOMMEND reading this although a little long but you can skip some chapters)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

Thanks for that :( Im in process of reading the article heheh, by the way most guys here use motul chrono so Im guessing its ok to use for everyday driving....as for the addictive's im not sure motul 300v got it or not, doesnt say anything in their website other than ester stuff.........

and where can I get Motul 300v power 5w-40? no one seems to have it, checkedd with autobarn and repco,.....

Cheers

Edit-

Just found this on Motu website

300V CHRONO 10w-40 - For a wide selection of engines — naturally aspirated, high torque turbo and cars that produce average to high levels of exhaust fumes

300V POWER 5w-40 - For engines that run circuit and street races,

looks like Chrono is the way to go......mmmmmm

I looked for hours and couldn't find the info. Bascially I had to reasearch VSLDs and how they work and found out exactly what you said...then got confused again! haha thanks for that mate.

can some one please tell if the R33 GTS4 got VSLD or a clutch type one?

300V CHRONO 10w-40 - For a wide selection of engines — naturally aspirated, high torque turbo and cars that produce average to high levels of exhaust fumes

300V POWER 5w-40 - For engines that run circuit and street races,

looks like Chrono is the way to go......mmmmmm

i would say 10w is too thick, especially with the colder months coming up. I would go with the recent advice here, 0w to 5w to provide the max protection where you get the most wear

i would say 10w is too thick, especially with the colder months coming up. I would go with the recent advice here, 0w to 5w to provide the max protection where you get the most wear

Depends on how cold it gets, it's not too thick really as 10w is spec (ASTM D-5293) to flow at -25'c. A good Synthetic will have a lower cP then a mineral though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
    • Brand was ard.   I also threw a brand new battery at it and beefed up the wire from the alternator to battery and added an extra earthing point from the battery 
    • Evening all,       I'm replacing some bolts on my RB25 with probolt Australia bolts.       Does anyone know the following, m5 m6 etc 10mm 20mm etc       Coil cover   Cam covers   Plazamaman fuel rail   Front cover (timing cover)   Etc   Any help would be awesome   Or any lists anywhere
×
×
  • Create New...