The Goods On Oils

[1SLP80]

Yeah i know, in the middle of sorting out my cooler/relo kit and extra thermo fan. I cant fit it till my kit is on or i may have to move stuff around anyway.

[slidetaker]

OK sweet as........ 0w50 is what im gunna get in a group IV. In the very 1st post it says that 0w40 thins down- and equates to about 20wt, which is not good for track use. At least the 50wt will give me a bit of head room.

Thanks to everybody that assisted me in understanding the whole oil thing.

Scott

Which brand make 0W50?

The 1st post is saying 40wt has a viscosity around 9cSt at 120C which is the same viscosity of a 20wt......BUT AT 100C.....

At 120C, a 20wt will lessen its viscosity less than 9cST, if you have to ask, I am guessing around a 6cSt.

A matter of fact is the viscosity gap between SAE oil weight reduces as it is reaching extreme heat. In your case if your engine is constantly in extreme heat, 50wt will give you better protection, beside, a 0W50 is going to be on the light slide of 50wt unlike a 20W50.

Fix your cooling system before an oil cooler. If your coolant, radiator, water pump and thermostat are working fine, there is rarely a case which requires an oil cooler.

Edited July 31, 2008 by slidetaker

[Cubes]

OK sweet as........ 0w50 is what im gunna get in a group IV. In the very 1st post it says that 0w40 thins down- and equates to about 20wt, which is not good for track use. At least the 50wt will give me a bit of head room.

Fix your cooling system before an oil cooler. If your coolant, radiator, water pump and thermostat are working fine, there is rarely a case which requires an oil cooler.

He will if he is going to hit the track.

[1SLP80]

Which brand make 0W50?

The 1st post is saying 40wt has a viscosity around 9cSt at 120C which is the same viscosity of a 20wt......BUT AT 100C.....

At 120C, a 20wt will lessen its viscosity less than 9cST, if you have to ask, I am guessing around a 6cSt.

A matter of fact is the viscosity gap between SAE oil weight reduces as it is reaching extreme heat. In your case if your engine is constantly in extreme heat, 50wt will give you better protection, beside, a 0W50 is going to be on the light slide of 50wt unlike a 20W50.

Fix your cooling system before an oil cooler. If your coolant, radiator, water pump and thermostat are working fine, there is rarely a case which requires an oil cooler.

HAHA i was jusr PRESUMING i could get 0w50.... this was not the case.

I settled for "valvoline SYN POWER" 5w40, full synthetic (motor is less then 5000kms since standard rebuild).

at idle, my oil pressure is spot on, and the Engine seems to run more quitely.

Not to sure how its gunna go at the track though.

When i was at supercheap, i couldnt find out what class oils they were i,e I,II,III,IV or V...... Doesnt say it on the bottles nor on the shelf.

How do u know???

[slidetaker]

.....When i was at supercheap, i couldnt find out what class oils they were i,e I,II,III,IV or V...... Doesnt say it on the bottles nor on the shelf.

How do u know???

I think Redline and Motul are quite specific of which Group base oil they use in their range of oils. You can go to their website and also the hardcopy Motul Brochure in the auto-retailers store have these informations.

Most brands will not disclose these base oil information to the exact as it is highly related to the formulation of an oil. But from their MSDS, specs (HTHS, VII) and general descriptions, after viewing a few of these, you can start to tell what largely an oil is made up of. Most brands also give general indication like mineral, conventional, semisyn, syn blend, syn, fully syn.....Oh...not to mention the pricing too...at the end of the day, you get what you pay for.

[Hektik]

Royal Purple looks the goods...

[khunjeng]

apart from the obvious issues with their tests...in 47 pages, this has been covered many times.

[slidetaker]

yeah....apart from the "far from reality" issue with the test....

is it just me or is the "covered oil" having a different viscosity than the Royal Purple? For all we know, that "covered oil" could be coconut oil.....

[MeL_rps013]

I use motul turbolight for my 180sx im happy with it... im servicing my 32 gtr next week fo rthe first time been told to use Penrite HPR15 anyone use this in their rb26?

[SS8_Gohan]

is it full synthetic or a group III oil? ie, not quite full synthetic, but still marketed as one

[some_cs_student]

apart from the obvious issues with their tests...in 47 pages, this has been covered many times.

Yes, we've been trying to keep the first post up-to-date with the current summary of the thread.

If "khungjeng" or anyone else has a sec, can you please scan the post? And post your comments into a post somewhere in the thread?

I'm sure you can explain group I/II/III oils a little better, group II is hydrocrak ?

Once you've made the post just hit "report" to moderator and a mod will update the first post....

[bozodos]

HPR 15 is what I put in my VN lol.

I use Castrol EDGE 5w/30 mainly because its the closest grade to factory (7.5w/30) and at 50 bucks for 5 litres, quite cheap too, which enables me to service on 5000km religiously.

[MeL_rps013]

HPR 15 is what I put in my VN lol.

I use Castrol EDGE 5w/30 mainly because its the closest grade to factory (7.5w/30) and at 50 bucks for 5 litres, quite cheap too, which enables me to service on 5000km religiously.

lol great..... i dunno what to use ill ask the tuner.

[bozodos]

If you go to your local autobarn/parts shop they should be able to look up a reccommended oil for your engine in their manufacturers book, the GTR should be listed as it was Australian delivered.

[some_cs_student]

If you go to your local autobarn/parts shop they should be able to look up a reccommended oil for your engine in their manufacturers book, the GTR should be listed as it was Australian delivered.

Please do not pollute the thread without first reading it, they're plenty of advice from experts and people who have done a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) of what the recommended oils are for a Skyline.

[bozodos]

Not everyone wants to rely soley on advice taken from an internet forum about what oil to put in their cars, nor read 47 pages of often overly technical and detailed information from self appointed 'experts' about what oil to put in. Most of it comes across as TL;DR. I told them what i use, and the main reasons why I use it, mind you that is for an RB25DET.

A reasonable person would first maybe research directly with a reseller or oil company on their specified oil for engine model, i'm trying to give the person some practical advice rather than saying 'oh read some hundred page pdf', or giving them a breakdown of polyester based oils vs hydrocrack!

Same applies in real life, i buy Castrol EDGE from Autobarn, the salesman recommends Nulon brand oil, and other import driving mates Motul, the only common denominators I an average motorist/ameteur mechanic are going to look at are price and viscosity, and maybe whether the oil leaks, or looks suspiciously clean/overly dirty when drained.

So how about you keep your trite comments to yourself, and ironically polluting the thread.

[SS8_Gohan]

gareth is on the money.

Go to autobarn, supercrap, etc and ask them what base group oil castrol edge is derived from? >insert blank face< -

not sure we can get a true synthetic Castrol here (tws?) - your mates are right about Motul, they do actually make full synthetic oils

bozodos - have fun with your group III oil mate

[khunjeng]

Not everyone wants to rely soley on advice taken from an internet forum about what oil to put in their cars, nor read 47 pages of often overly technical and detailed information from self appointed 'experts' about what oil to put in. Most of it comes across as TL;DR. I told them what i use, and the main reasons why I use it, mind you that is for an RB25DET.

A reasonable person would first maybe research directly with a reseller or oil company on their specified oil for engine model, i'm trying to give the person some practical advice rather than saying 'oh read some hundred page pdf', or giving them a breakdown of polyester based oils vs hydrocrack!

Same applies in real life, i buy Castrol EDGE from Autobarn, the salesman recommends Nulon brand oil, and other import driving mates Motul, the only common denominators I an average motorist/ameteur mechanic are going to look at are price and viscosity, and maybe whether the oil leaks, or looks suspiciously clean/overly dirty when drained.

So how about you keep your trite comments to yourself, and ironically polluting the thread.

your advice is not bad overall. do it every 5000km under normal driving conditions and Id say a 30wt would be just spot on for normal driving. I think the castrol edge is a bit crap, but for 5000 OCIs then its probably not going to be all that bad. There are some other autobahn options that are abut the same price that I would choose over that.

[bozodos]

SS_8 Gohan do you put your oil change stickers where everyone can see them or something?

The only other oil in around the same viscosity which our local Autobarn stocks is Motul 8100 Xcess, and at 70 odd dollars for 4 litres is still a fair bit more.

Until there's some independent test someone can show me which proves a Group 4 oil is going to make any difference to my motor longevity, economy or power rather than a Group 3, there's no reason for me to pay more for oil except for the wank factor. Ironically most of the people i know who use the expensive oils are the ones who barely drive hard enough to hit boost, seems a completely pointless waste to me.

I'd rather have clean oil going in regularly than being anal about what base stock was used to make it, I've seen plenty of RB engines using Castrol Synthetic oils, whether they are in fact a true synthetic or hydrocrack, and having no problems at all. Also going off the mantra of 'you get what you pay for' its about 50 bucks for 5 litres, so being pretty middle of the road in terms of price.

I also had a look in the catalogue at one of the parts shops which did in fact recommend the 5w30 oil, as well as thinking that yes logically it is close to the OEM specified viscosity, and due to the fact that when i went to service my Skyline and read through some of this thread, it was really vague and confusing, I don't appreciate when I try and help someone else out to have people whinge about it because i didnt just follow the hivemind mentality of some of the other posters in the thread, i'm just advocating what works for me in practice.

[SS8_Gohan]

if you had read the thread properly, you would have realised that some very knowledgeable people (with regards to oil) have posted in here, with some nice basic, simple rules to follow. As many have mentioned before, a good oil is one of the cheapest insurance policies you can have for your car, and the fact most of the cars in question are turbo, this is perhaps even more important. Furthermore, a local guy has also been linked on numerous occasions in this thread who sells the top oils at decent prices, will ship anywhere in Oz and makes it stupidly easily to gain access to oils not available off the shelf, and all you have to do is walk to your letter box to get it.

I pay $11 per litre (.94litres) for Royal Purple 5w30. Hardly much of a difference to what you're paying for an inferior oil.

No one is disputing your choice of 5w30, (I guarantee you there are countless mechanics/auto shops out there that would tell you it's too thin) just the fact that if you go to any of the franchise auto stores don't expect accurate/good advice. Case in point, i rang around for Castrol Transmax Z, and they asked what it was for and i told them it was for my power steering fluid. A couple places laughed, one place was concerned and advised against it. What do you think happened to my steering rack binding issues on a 33 degree day at Sandown after i put the Transmax Z in as power steering fluid? Solved my problems and worked flawlessly on a hot track day. How's their advice looking now for lubricants?

We can't expect these places to be completely knowledgeable about all facets of motoring, that's unreasonable, so it's thanks to a few people in this thread who know what they're talking about, we have some good, solid information. That's why enthusiasts communities exist.

What petrol do you run in your car bozodos?