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The Goods On Oils


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i have the nissan r33 manual here which was converted from japanese to english.

in the service data it says

"when the vehical leaves the factory, vehicials contain 7.5W-30 (SG) oil..

so im guessing anything around that be fine yeah?

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i have the nissan r33 manual here which was converted from japanese to english.

in the service data it says

"when the vehical leaves the factory, vehicials contain 7.5W-30 (SG) oil..

so im guessing anything around that be fine yeah?

yeah more or less around that number

fully synthetic oil would be good as well..

If u have doubts just get mobile 1 0 - 40... i can assure you from my understanding they are 100% fully synthetic...

tho the price of them isnt to b laughed at.. 70-80 per 5 litre depending where u buy it from.

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mobile 1 is 100% synthetic but its a handmade synthetic so its only a group 4 oil because the synthetic quality isnt that of a group 5 (Redline or Amsoil). If you want a good oil redline 10W-40 is the best stuff for a skyline. 7.5W-30 will be blown out your skyline in a few weeks because simply we do not live in japan so the oil runs at hotter engine temperatures and there for just to thin for it to stay in, i warn you if you go that thin it will blow it out.

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7.5W-30 will be blown out your skyline in a few weeks because simply we do not live in japan so the oil runs at hotter engine temperatures and there for just to thin for it to stay in, i warn you if you go that thin it will blow it out.

I'm running 0w30 right now, it has not "blown out" of my skyline. Slightly modified GTR (250rwkw) with oil cooler and temperatures stay below 80 degrees constantly, usually 70 except during spirited driving.

I'm considering trying Winton with the 0w30 to see how it goes on a track...

Without the oil cooler it should be ok for the street but 5 or 10w40 if your worried.

EDIT: for above poster, once again (its probably in the first post) http://performancelub.com

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mobile 1 is 100% synthetic but its a handmade synthetic so its only a group 4 oil because the synthetic quality isnt that of a group 5 (Redline or Amsoil). If you want a good oil redline 10W-40 is the best stuff for a skyline. 7.5W-30 will be blown out your skyline in a few weeks because simply we do not live in japan so the oil runs at hotter engine temperatures and there for just to thin for it to stay in, i warn you if you go that thin it will blow it out.

Group 4 oil is more then high enough for a GTS T that is driven on the street 90% of the time and 10% of the time having some fun on the skid pan.

If u getting serious in track days etc and pushing the car then i would probably use a group 5 oil. Otherwise you would be wasting the extra dollars your spending on redline... more so if you are like me and changing oil every 5k.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I use the nulon product 10w40 http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?produ...wing_Engine_Oil, i use used it in my subaru, evo and gtr and never had a problem with it. oil pressures ramain good, engine runs quite and i have never burnt any in any off my applications.

cost me $60 with a ryco filter...

really good value if anyone wants a quility oil with out a mega price tag.

would be interesting to see if any others are using it atm.

Edited by el capitan
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i am about to service my r33 gtr with 65k on clock i am planning to use motul 300v 5w 30 any suggestions according to reading this thread that is the way to go ro no. any information would be much appreciated

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have recently finished rebuilding me engine (RB25DET) and have just finished running the engine in and about to do a oil change.

I have been told to use any 10-30w oil. Was thinking of using Motul 4000 Motion if that's the case? Is that the right type of oil to be using after a rebuild or should i move up to the Chrono?

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i have recently finished rebuilding me engine (RB25DET) and have just finished running the engine in and about to do a oil change.

I have been told to use any 10-30w oil. Was thinking of using Motul 4000 Motion if that's the case? Is that the right type of oil to be using after a rebuild or should i move up to the Chrono?

They don't make Motul 4000 Motion any more - i've been using 4100 Turbolight 10W-40 in my r34 - excellent oil pressure even when i've thrashed it around qld raceway at a track day last month - same oil in there now and the oil pressure is still THE SAME!!! pretty damn good for a semi-synthetic! if you want a better option try 8100 X-cess 5W-40 100% synthetic (used this one before too - bit more expensive) or 300V chrono 10W-40. if yor engine is freshly built and not run in DON'T USE ANY SYNTHETIC OR FRICTION MODIFIED OIL!!!! :) it will stop your rings from bedding in properly (because of the firiction modifiers) and cause the engine to basically be in the same state as if it were badly worn! once the engine is properly run in you can dump the running-in oil and put the good stuff in! :rolleyes:

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sounds like motul seems to be the go....

i got a rb20det and i run royal purple 10w40 in her she goes all right bit on the expensive side at $80 bucks for 5L though and doin a change at every 5000k they reckon you can get 10000k out of it but not sure whether to leave it that long

royal purple is good shit

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sounds like motul seems to be the go....

i got a rb20det and i run royal purple 10w40 in her she goes all right bit on the expensive side at $80 bucks for 5L though and doin a change at every 5000k they reckon you can get 10000k out of it but not sure whether to leave it that long

royal purple is good shit

if ur using 300V, RP or Redline i would be leaving it in for approx 10,000kms if its just general use. The addatives take time to work.

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mobile 1 is 100% synthetic but its a handmade synthetic so its only a group 4 oil because the synthetic quality isnt that of a group 5 (Redline or Amsoil).

Actually Amsoil is also a Group 4 oil as stated in an email I received from one of their Lubrication Specialists;

"Group IV -Chemical Reactions: Group IV base oils are chemically engineered synthetic base stocks.

Polyalphaolefins (PAO's) are a common example of a synthetic base stock. Synthetics, when combined with additives, offer excellent performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. They have very stable chemical compositions and highly uniform molecular chains. Group IV base oils are becoming more common in synthetic and synthetic-blend products for automotive and industrial applications (hh)."

"AMSOIL uses only Group IV PAO's"

7.5W-30 will be blown out your skyline in a few weeks because simply we do not live in japan so the oil runs at hotter engine temperatures and there for just to thin for it to stay in, i warn you if you go that thin it will blow it out.

Not quite sure you reasoning on this one.

"Genuine" Nissan oil that is used for car servicing at Nissan Dealerships is a 5W30.

I don't see too many Nissan's driving around blowing out oil.

My mate had his NM35 Stagea serviced at a Nissan dealership (inc oil change) and he certainly is not "Blowing oil out"... and yes, he loves boost :)

Oh yeah, currently I am using Motul 300v Chrono (and have been for the last 46,000kms) but will probably be changing to the 300v Power Racing (5W30) next service.

I change every 10,000km's, and have been using either K&N or Amsoil oil filters.

Runs quite nicely! :D

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