The Goods On Oils

[wisey18]

Purchased some Sougi S 6000 (5L) today for $60 on the Gold Coast

If anyone else would like to purchase any, here are the details...

Chris Burck

3/8 Telford Pl, Arundel

QLD 4214

(07) 5529 0396

Google Maps

There's plenty in stock and Chris was very helpful and accommodating.

Chris also sells the M 5000 which is a semi synthetic (contains 30% polyol ester) in 5L bottles as well. Not sure on the price of this however. If the S 6000 is said to be on par with the Motul 300V Chrono, then the M 5000 would be in between the Motul 4100 Turbolight and 8100 Xcess?

Birds, I also saw this oil as well. It's a 10w/60 full synth. Description said it can be used on racing/street cars, to farm equipment and all kinds of things in between. You know anything about this stuff?

Anyone know of any suppliers around Sydney and how much?

[08yannch]

Anyone know of any suppliers around Sydney and how much?

call gulf western they will be able to help

[Aznbongsta]

Hi! need help with oil! Im new to this and planning on changing my oil this week.

I had Motul 8100 put in my car from the service place I go to but I want to do this myself now.

I dont know which Motul 8100 they used! What I see theres like X-Cess, X-Clean, X-lite and X-Max also I dont know which weight they used!

I drive a R34 Sedan with a NEO RB25DE 2.5L engine.

Although I dont have much mods, only a fujitsubo exhaust system and a high flow air filter.

I want to try this Motul 300V, I heard its good oil. It might be overkill but I want to see if there is any difference.

Which 300V should I use? and what weights? At the moment I looking at the Motul 300V CHRONO 10w40

Please help me out here! Also I dont think i had this transfer case or differential oil changed before! What are they and do they need changing? If yes what oil?

Sorry for all the noobie questions!

[JGTC]

if you're running motul 8100, you most probably have the x-cess variant, which by memory is 5w-40

There are 2 variants of the 300V chrono, the competition (15w40) which is specified for track-days and racing, and the normal one (10w40), for just everyday street driving with a bit of a give here and there, definitely go the normal 300V with the 10w40 rating.

That said, the people at Unigroup Engineering who ran the SAU NSW dyno-day recommend using a mid range semi-synthetic to full synthetic, but dump the oil more often, say 5000km rather than 7500 or 10,000km, because the real high end oils are simply overkill for stock or close to stock motors, esp naturally aspirated ones.

In an ideal situation where money isn't too much of a constraint, use the 300V 10w40 and change every 5000kms

hope that helps,

daniel

[Birds]

10w40 as above. Should read through the thread a bit mate, it's all written there.

[KrazyKong]

Hi! need help with oil! Im new to this and planning on changing my oil this week.

I had Motul 8100 put in my car from the service place I go to but I want to do this myself now.

I dont know which Motul 8100 they used! What I see theres like X-Cess, X-Clean, X-lite and X-Max also I dont know which weight they used!

I drive a R34 Sedan with a NEO RB25DE 2.5L engine.

Although I dont have much mods, only a fujitsubo exhaust system and a high flow air filter.

I want to try this Motul 300V, I heard its good oil. It might be overkill but I want to see if there is any difference.

Which 300V should I use? and what weights? At the moment I looking at the Motul 300V CHRONO 10w40

Please help me out here! Also I dont think i had this transfer case or differential oil changed before! What are they and do they need changing? If yes what oil?

Sorry for all the noobie questions!

10w40 is a great weight of oil to use. But it doesn't come in the 8100 variant, only the 4100 or 300V. Now if price isn't an issue, you can't go wrong with the 300V Chrono. But for a non turbo engine, using 300V and replacing it after only 5000kms is overkill imho. Personally I'd try the Sougi S 6000. It's 10w40 and on par with the 300V. Also it comes in a 5L bottle instead of the 300Vs 4L + 2L ones. I got onto using Sougi after reading this thread and haven't looked back. If you don't want to read back through this thread, just know that there are only a few true synthetic oils. The Castrols, the Mobil 1s are not true synthetics, and also oddly none of them seem to come in the 10w40 spec. Nulon have a "Full Synthetic" but I think it's only on par with the Castrol and Mobil stuff.

Motul 300V Chrono, Royal Purple and Sougi S 6000 are the true synthetics. You can also get Redline and Fuchs oils but I don't know much about them other than they are expensive and truly meant for racing.

I paid $60 for my 5L of oil because I went to a distributor directly. For $60 at any auto store, that will only get you some Penrite semi synth, Nulon, Mobil, Castrol etc. You can't even get some Motul 4100 oil and that's really no better than the other semi synth or "fully synthetic in name only" oils.

The 8100 oil is a good oil, but again it doesn't come in the 10w40 and for me that was the magic number for my car. I half suspect the 300V Chrono is actually the same formulated oil as the 8100 stuff, but just in a different weight. I find it odd the 8100 doesn't come in 10w40, makes you wonder doesn't it. Just re badge the same oil in a different weight, call it a fancy name and add 30-40% markup on it.

In the end only you will know what's is best for your car, but seeing as you don't have a Turbo, the pricetag of $150 for some 300V every 5000kms seems like money not well spent. Try the Sougi, you won't regret it.

[BASHO]

I'm now using Penrite HPR10 it's a 10 x 50 semi synth costing around $39.95 for 5ltrs and an OE filter @ $12.00 ea.

I'm running a stock except exhaust R34GTT with 83000ks up on the Gold Coast, so the temps can be a bit consistantly toasty.

I change the oil every 4 months and usualy have around 2000ks up between change times-- and I don't flog my ride.

I've used Nulon fully synth (WHICH IS NOT) Castrol Edge and Valvoline semi syn and quite honestly from engine happyness sound and oil pressure the Penrite is the nicest, which, from my exhaustive scientific research outlined previously here proves beyond a doubt its the best , it's, also the least expensive.

My fuel consumption has not increased with the slightly heavier grade (10x40w to 10x50w) staying constant at around 11 to 12 ltrs per 100 Ks -city only

I have also used in previous cars Motul , Royal Purple , Mobil, etc and find no basis in fact for useing expensive track oriented oils in an only lightly pushed streeter with frequently changed oils.

.

[Galois]

read through the thread, even the last 5-10 pages will give you a good idea of what to use. most peoples combinations of cars and mods have already been covered, but sometimes the older posts are a bit out-of-date.

and, as said above, only you can find out which oil is best for your car by trial and error. i tried the motul 8100 5w40 and the car seems to like it, some people swear by it. pretty keen to try the sougi s 6000 next, it's underpriced if you can find a distributer and known as one of the best

not sure who, but someone earlier said you can't go too wrong with oil, as long as its semi-synthetic and you change it every 5000km's then experiment away

[Galois]

oh yeah, and for diff and gearbox oils, look at the other forums, its in the gearbox section in a sticky

[KrazyKong]

I'm now using Penrite HPR10 it's a 10 x 50 semi synth costing around $39.95 for 5ltrs and an OE filter @ $12.00 ea.

I'm running a stock except exhaust R34GTT with 83000ks up on the Gold Coast, so the temps can be a bit consistantly toasty.

I change the oil every 4 months and usualy have around 2000ks up between change times-- and I don't flog my ride.

I've used Nulon fully synth (WHICH IS NOT) Castrol Edge and Valvoline semi syn and quite honestly from engine happyness sound and oil pressure the Penrite is the nicest, which, from my exhaustive scientific research outlined previously here proves beyond a doubt its the best , it's, also the least expensive.

My fuel consumption has not increased with the slightly heavier grade (10x40w to 10x50w) staying constant at around 11 to 12 ltrs per 100 Ks -city only

I have also used in previous cars Motul , Royal Purple , Mobil, etc and find no basis in fact for useing expensive track oriented oils in an only lightly pushed streeter with frequently changed oils.

.

The last oil I used was Penrite HPR10. It did it's thing and came out pretty clean in the end. But for me it didn't feel right in the car. For one the oil pressure was very noticeably higher than the oil before that (some unknown Havoline stuff the compliance guys put in). It took alot longer for the oil to thin out in the mornings, and the pressure to be happy at "4". Also notied a tapping noise in the engine when I started using this oil. Despite reading this whole thread I pretty much get amnesia when it comes to oil weights. I keep forgetting what is which. With my experience it felt to me the Penrite 10w50 was the wrong stuff to use, and I live on the Gold Coast as well.

I wanted to move to the Motul 300V Chrono. But due to the price, instead opted for the Sougi S 6000 10w40. After putting it in, the car seem quieter, the pressure less on the high side when cold and overall, gave me a feeling I was using the right kind of oil for my car. It only cost $60 for 5L, so was only $10 more than the Penrite HPR10. Yet it is a true fully synthetic oil. I don't know if I'll do 10,000kms with this oil, but many folks here have.

I am curious why you change the oil after 2000kms. At that rate, you could be putting in any of the cheap oils and still be getting good protection. But you're right, it's each to his own, and only you will know how your car works and operates using whatever oil. For me, I think the key was getting the correct weight. 10w50 was too high, 10w40 was more comfortable. Time will tell how it holds up and works as this is my first experience with Sougi. But for the price, you can't lose.

[scarface_au]

Where do you get this Sougi stuff from? Do you have to order it or is it likely to be available in stores?

[KrazyKong]

Where do you get this Sougi stuff from? Do you have to order it or is it likely to be available in stores?

It's not in stores up here, and I don't think it's in stores anywhere. But it's a proper product labeled and packaged as though you would buy it somewhere at retail. For whatever reason I guess GW havn't spent much effort in getting into the Autobarns, Super Cheaps and Repcos.

As to how you get it, there will be a GW distributor in your area, greater area or city. This distributor would be providing alot of the mechanic shops with 20 gallon drums of various oils, transmission fluids etc. These same distributors have the 5L bottles of Sougi at their businesses/warehouses/depots etc. For me it was as simple as calling to check they had them in stock, going there and purchasing it.

For your area, I would first ask Birds on here if he has a contact. Or call GW on 1800 248 919 and ask for the closest distributor near you.

When you realize how good this oil is, and that the only other comparison is the Motul 300V Chrono and Royal Purple, for the price it can't be beat.

[Birds]

I don't think Gulf Western believe there's much of a market for it, so it's a boutique oil that usually needs to be ordered in, but any GW distributor can get it. Surprising to me because some retail stores stock Gulf 1 which is their flagship oil. I'm forever pushing for it to get more credit than it does. It seems to me a great little niche market that Motul dominate and GW are missing out on. Give GW a call and they will put you on to your closest distributor. If you're in Victoria (or interstate and want it posted to your door) I can help you out as I always have cartons of Sougi sitting on my shelf.

Good to hear it's working out well for you Kong. Let me know how you go on the second change too.

[Aznbongsta]

Oh Yea! Seems like im a very lucky man! I was able to score GW Sougi S 6000 at Autobarn in Sunshine, Victoria!

They only had 1 left and it was quite dusty , it was hidden behind some clip strip stock!

They have plenty of the Sougi M 5000 but with 1 bottle of Sougi S 6000.

I snapped it up straight away since i was searching for oil and didnt see it in any other shop

HOWEVER it wasnt $60 + Tax

it cost me $79.99

But im willing to give it a try!

Anyone recommend me to flush the engine? I had Motul 8100 in it before and the last service was like 6000Kms ago and its running low ( sitting half way ) The oil seems black but when put on some tissues, I can see some goldies color, seems like its still alrite LOL

Edited April 28, 2010 by Aznbongsta

[KrazyKong]

Nice find on the Sougi in a store. The $60 price I was mentioning before was from a distributor, not a retailer. Obviously the store you purchased it from has put a markup on it. So next time you purchase some, save the $20 and find a distributor instead.

As far as a flush goes, after reading the last several pages, I'd say no don't do it. You know what oil was in there before, and 8100 is still some decent stuff. One tip I learned was to start the car in the morning, let it run until the temp sensor just begins to move, then shut off the engine. Then do the drain. The oil should be thinner and will hopefully drain more of it out of the block.

I was all set to do a flush myself and had bought some cheap mineral oil to do it. But then reading things on here, it's possible you could actually make things worse.

[BASHO]

The last oil I used was Penrite HPR10. It did it's thing and came out pretty clean in the end. But for me it didn't feel right in the car. For one the oil pressure was very noticeably higher than the oil before that (some unknown Havoline stuff the compliance guys put in). It took alot longer for the oil to thin out in the mornings, and the pressure to be happy at "4". Also notied a tapping noise in the engine when I started using this oil. Despite reading this whole thread I pretty much get amnesia when it comes to oil weights. I keep forgetting what is which. With my experience it felt to me the Penrite 10w50 was the wrong stuff to use, and I live on the Gold Coast as well.

I wanted to move to the Motul 300V Chrono. But due to the price, instead opted for the Sougi S 6000 10w40. After putting it in, the car seem quieter, the pressure less on the high side when cold and overall, gave me a feeling I was using the right kind of oil for my car. It only cost $60 for 5L, so was only $10 more than the Penrite HPR10. Yet it is a true fully synthetic oil. I don't know if I'll do 10,000kms with this oil, but many folks here have.

I am curious why you change the oil after 2000kms. At that rate, you could be putting in any of the cheap oils and still be getting good protection. But you're right, it's each to his own, and only you will know how your car works and operates using whatever oil. For me, I think the key was getting the correct weight. 10w50 was too high, 10w40 was more comfortable. Time will tell how it holds up and works as this is my first experience with Sougi. But for the price, you can't lose.

I do mainly short trip and given the warm weather I figure it can't hurt + I also regard all previous J owners as twats who probably didn't change the oil frequently enough so a bit of catch up happening, I'll probably go six months over winter.

I agree that the 10 x 50w seems on the high end with 10 x 40w probably being more appropriate however I talked with a couple of workshops and guys who drift rides with RB 25s and they're up in the 15 x 60w range so I'm not frettin I'm over doing at 10 X 50w on a ride with 83000ks on it.

I'm going to give Sougi a go next oil change as it's only $20 more than my ideal price ($40) and just in my "what I'll pay' range @ $60 , I'm completely over paying large amounts for oil for a streeter.

I've been reading oil threads for some years now and still know frak all about 'best' oils outside of what common sense tells me and that very cheap oils are probably not the best and very expensive is probably hugely overhyped and overpriced, and I don't give a toss if team Nissan/Subaru/Raleigh Bicycle uses it either.

[Birds]

Azn man, good to see you found a bottle but as Kong said, find a distributor next time lol. I could have had it delivered to your door for less than that

There's no real reason to flush an engine unless it has severe clogging issues or the oil hasn't been changed for a long long time. Oil is supposed to flush your engine. If you change oil regularly there's no need for it.

[GD2ILA]

i've been using Mobil 1 Gold and i find it works well and feels right when i'm driving. last change i got a different oil filter i think it was a driftek or something like that oil filter which has a magnet inside it has anyone else used this oil filter? is it better than the nissan one (which i normally get, have never used ryco)? what do you guys reckon?

[TUF250]

what do people think about the full sythetic nulon 10w40 it reads up well?

[perzn_34]

hey guys im buying oil for my r34 gtt for the first time and im thinking of going with the motul 8100 xcess. i do run a HKS GT-RS turbo with 13psi boost.

so is the motul 8100 xcess good? and idont realy know what viscosity to go with?? thiers 10w40 and 5w30 .. so which one should i go with considering its winter as well?