The Goods On Oils

[KrazyKong]

So am I being stubborn then in my insistence to only use a 10w40 oil? So a 5w40 would be just as good?

Do you want a larger number spread between cold and hot weights, or a lower one? I ask this in relation to formulations and additives, and the longevity of the oil.

[SS8_Gohan]

ideally you want as small a difference in number as possible.

Royal Purple make a group V as far as i know, but it's the ultra exxy XPR racing one, or something a long those lines. Same price if not more than Redline.

But yes, Harold, performancelub.com is the place to buy redline. Bursons will ask you to bend over.

Mobil 1 is supposed to be Group IV, but there is some conjecture there depending on the viscosity. 0w40 should be Group IV. Certainly good enough to be the oil of choice for the R35 GTR (factory oil).

AMSOil, which i'm runnning, i believe is a Group IV/V blend. Not that pricey either, again, got this from Harold. Being american, meant to be ok with E85 (which unfortunately not oils are).

[Galois]

Should be a mandatory change every 60,000km or so mate. Not many people know about them and they wear out fast particularly on turbocharged vehicles because exhaust temperatures are consistently very high.

damn, ok i'll get right on it. is this a part just bought from nissan? where exactly is it and is it difficult to replace? any hints of price?

So am I being stubborn then in my insistence to only use a 10w40 oil? So a 5w40 would be just as good?

Do you want a larger number spread between cold and hot weights, or a lower one? I ask this in relation to formulations and additives, and the longevity of the oil.

an oil company isn't going to write a 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13 or 14w. it'd make things too complicated. so maybe sougi was a 7, 8 or 9? maybe the penrite was an 11, 12 or 13? either way, a 10w50 is going to struggle properly lubricating all the small components such as lifters isnt it? its to heavy.

AMSOil, which i'm runnning, i believe is a Group IV/V blend. Not that pricey either, again, got this from Harold. Being american, meant to be ok with E85 (which unfortunately not oils are).

will have to start looking into this also. just wondering with IV/V blends, the IV part of it will still go off quickly right? so you'd have to change as often as for a grade IV, it just gives better protection over that time?

how much is amsoil?

one other thing is that the additives that change the hot/cold viscosities may actually be good for the engine cleaning. sougi and others have good cleansing agents as well as being exemplary oils

cheers folks

Edited May 20, 2010 by Galois

[Birds]

So am I being stubborn then in my insistence to only use a 10w40 oil? So a 5w40 would be just as good?

Do you want a larger number spread between cold and hot weights, or a lower one? I ask this in relation to formulations and additives, and the longevity of the oil.

Not really, 10w40 is perfect IMO. 5w is a bit unnecessary given Australia's mostly warm climate. The difference between the two is pretty negligible though.

You want a cold number that suits the climate where the vehicle is stored...and a hot number that reflects the engine size, type and age/wear. With regard to formulations, certain multi grades can only be achieved using semi synthetic blends or full synthetic bases. Other than that, and strictly speaking, the cold and hot weights do not directly affect the additives or longevity of the oil. More relevant is the base makeup of the oil (mineral, semi, full) and the application it is used for.

[j3zz4]

Before reading this thread i really had no idea what oil to use in my r33 gts-t as its the first performance car i've owned and im still very much in the learning process about most things to do with it haha. but after reading through i'd say i have a pretty good understanding of oil viscosity and how different oils can effect the engine.

coming up to the first oil change i have to do, i've decided a 10w40 oil is probably the best oil to use for my car. as i said its an r33 gts-t with basic bolt on mods making about 250-260rwhp. it's used as my daily doing around 300-400km's a week, and given a bit of a boot every now and then, and its got about 120,000km's on the clock.

i headed to repco in my area to pick up a bottle of motul 300v but decided against it after seeing it was going to cost me over $100 for 4L >.<

i then turned to 8100, but saw it only came in a 5w40 bottle and didnt know whether this would be ok for my engine.

so i wanted your opinions on whether getting a 5w40 oil would still be ok for my car? im not 100% sure how the car was treated before i bought it, and since the engine has done 120,000km's i thought a 10w40 would be the safer choice.

however ive seen a few people on here say that a 5w40 would still be ok for a daily driven car, i'm just concerned about a cold weight of 5 being too thin for the age and mileage of my car.

i was also thinking that because it is now coming into winter with slightly colder temperatures, that a 5w40 would be fine as long as i use a 10w40 during summer?? i dont know how much of an effect our seasons here in perth would have on oil though

im also curious if anyone here knows where there is a Sougi distributor in perth preferably NOR?? from the comments on here it sounds like an awesome oil for a great price, and considering im a uni student id love to be able to utilise this while its still available

thanks in advance!

*edit*

i just read the last few posts about 5w40 vs 10w40 oils while i was writing my reply to this thread..

should i not use motul 8100 then since its a 5w40?

Edited May 20, 2010 by j3zz4

[Birds]

damn, ok i'll get right on it. is this a part just bought from nissan? where exactly is it and is it difficult to replace? any hints of price?

Can buy O2 sensors anywhere mate, from Nissan, Burson, eBay etc.

Genuine and aftermarket parts available, no real difference. It is on the dump pipe - bit of a bitch to undo with conventional spanners particularly if it's never been replaced before. Should cost between $80-150 depending where you buy from.

[Birds]

Before reading this thread i really had no idea what oil to use in my r33 gts-t as its the first performance car i've owned and im still very much in the learning process about most things to do with it haha. but after reading through i'd say i have a pretty good understanding of oil viscosity and how different oils can effect the engine.

coming up to the first oil change i have to do, i've decided a 10w40 oil is probably the best oil to use for my car. as i said its an r33 gts-t with basic bolt on mods making about 250-260rwhp. it's used as my daily doing around 300-400km's a week, and given a bit of a boot every now and then, and its got about 120,000km's on the clock.

i headed to repco in my area to pick up a bottle of motul 300v but decided against it after seeing it was going to cost me over $100 for 4L >.<

i then turned to 8100, but saw it only came in a 5w40 bottle and didnt know whether this would be ok for my engine.

so i wanted your opinions on whether getting a 5w40 oil would still be ok for my car? im not 100% sure how the car was treated before i bought it, and since the engine has done 120,000km's i thought a 10w40 would be the safer choice.

however ive seen a few people on here say that a 5w40 would still be ok for a daily driven car, i'm just concerned about a cold weight of 5 being too thin for the age and mileage of my car.

i was also thinking that because it is now coming into winter with slightly colder temperatures, that a 5w40 would be fine as long as i use a 10w40 during summer?? i dont know how much of an effect our seasons here in perth would have on oil though

im also curious if anyone here knows where there is a Sougi distributor in perth preferably NOR?? from the comments on here it sounds like an awesome oil for a great price, and considering im a uni student id love to be able to utilise this while its still available

thanks in advance!

5w40 will be fine mate. It's not as ideal as 10w40, given the age of your vehicle and our climate, but it will not harm your car.

You guys gotta get it out of your heads that you're going to kill your engine if you put something a little too heavy or a little too light in your engine

[Humbla]

Nulon fully synth 10 40 is very good,an doesn't cost an arm an a leg.

[j3zz4]

5w40 will be fine mate. It's not as ideal as 10w40, given the age of your vehicle and our climate, but it will not harm your car.

You guys gotta get it out of your heads that you're going to kill your engine if you put something a little too heavy or a little too light in your engine

hahaha, i just want to protect my engine as well as i can

i think ill go with the 8100 then. it sounds like a good oil from the comments of everyone in this thread. a 5w would protect my engine better than a 10w at start-up anyway wouldn't it?

i'd still be keen on trying out sougi though if its almost inline with motul 300v quality wise for a smidge of the price.

anyone in perth know where i can pick up a bottle??

Edited May 20, 2010 by j3zz4

[KrazyKong]

Before reading this thread i really had no idea what oil to use in my r33 gts-t as its the first performance car i've owned and im still very much in the learning process about most things to do with it haha. but after reading through i'd say i have a pretty good understanding of oil viscosity and how different oils can effect the engine.

coming up to the first oil change i have to do, i've decided a 10w40 oil is probably the best oil to use for my car. as i said its an r33 gts-t with basic bolt on mods making about 250-260rwhp. it's used as my daily doing around 300-400km's a week, and given a bit of a boot every now and then, and its got about 120,000km's on the clock.

i headed to repco in my area to pick up a bottle of motul 300v but decided against it after seeing it was going to cost me over $100 for 4L >.<

i then turned to 8100, but saw it only came in a 5w40 bottle and didnt know whether this would be ok for my engine.

so i wanted your opinions on whether getting a 5w40 oil would still be ok for my car? im not 100% sure how the car was treated before i bought it, and since the engine has done 120,000km's i thought a 10w40 would be the safer choice.

however ive seen a few people on here say that a 5w40 would still be ok for a daily driven car, i'm just concerned about a cold weight of 5 being too thin for the age and mileage of my car.

i was also thinking that because it is now coming into winter with slightly colder temperatures, that a 5w40 would be fine as long as i use a 10w40 during summer?? i dont know how much of an effect our seasons here in perth would have on oil though

im also curious if anyone here knows where there is a Sougi distributor in perth preferably NOR?? from the comments on here it sounds like an awesome oil for a great price, and considering im a uni student id love to be able to utilise this while its still available

thanks in advance!

*edit*

i just read the last few posts about 5w40 vs 10w40 oils while i was writing my reply to this thread..

should i not use motul 8100 then since its a 5w40?

Give Gulf Western a call on their 1-800 number off their website and ask for their Perth distributor. Shouldn't be a hassle at all and will only take one call. Yeah I was all set to go with the Motul 8100 but then discovered it didn't come in 10w40. Then ended up settling on Sougi and it's the perfect oil for my car I feel. I was told by the Motul distributor that they are thinking of possibly releasing a 10w40 in the 8100 range so that would be great if they do. The problem with 300V isn't just the price, it's the fact we need 4.7L and the bottles only come in 4L + 2L. So we have to buy an extra 1.5L pretty much for each oil change. From what I've seen the 8100 series come in a 5L bottle, so if they do end up making a 10w40 I'm hoping it too will come in a 5L bottle.

Not really, 10w40 is perfect IMO. 5w is a bit unnecessary given Australia's mostly warm climate. The difference between the two is pretty negligible though.

You want a cold number that suits the climate where the vehicle is stored...and a hot number that reflects the engine size, type and age/wear. With regard to formulations, certain multi grades can only be achieved using semi synthetic blends or full synthetic bases. Other than that, and strictly speaking, the cold and hot weights do not directly affect the additives or longevity of the oil. More relevant is the base makeup of the oil (mineral, semi, full) and the application it is used for.

+1. I know 5w40 is close enough, but still don't feel comfortable just yet going to it. I guess once Sougi dries up I won't have a choice. We live in Australia, yet there are some really bizarre oil weights being sold here. It doesn't get to -30c here so the mind boggles why there's so much cold weather crap being sold.

Galois, you can pickup a proper NTK OEM O2 sensor from Kudos Motorsports. Cost me $77. I posted some pics of the unit here awhile back.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/-t...t&p=5225914

It comes with the correct harness and clip so it just snaps in, and you're away driving. This is the O2 sensor I changed to and you know how great my fuel economy was increase too

Nulon fully synth 10 40 is very good,an doesn't cost an arm an a leg.

Lol, Nulon "100% Fully Synthetic" doesn't get my supporters around here. Not because of the product, but how they chose to state it was 100% fully synthetic when it's no better than Group III oil with additives. And in a way a shame too, as it's probably not a half decent oil. But it's not even close to the true synthetic oils. It's a semi, but they are cheating people with their advertising and labeling.

Edited May 20, 2010 by KrazyKong

[j3zz4]

Give Gulf Western a call on their 1-800 number off their website and ask for their Perth distributor. Shouldn't be a hassle at all and will only take one call. Yeah I was all set to go with the Motul 8100 but then discovered it didn't come in 10w40. Then ended up settling on Sougi and it's the perfect oil for my car I feel. I was told by the Motul distributor that they are thinking of possibly releasing a 10w40 in the 8100 range so that would be great if they do. The problem with 300V isn't just the price, it's the fact we need 4.7L and the bottles only come in 4L + 2L. So we have to buy an extra 1.5L pretty much for each oil change. From what I've seen the 8100 series come in a 5L bottle, so if they do end up making a 10w40 I'm hoping it too will come in a 5L bottle.

thanks mate, yeah i definitely will.

also agree with your comments on the size the 300v comes in. it seems pointless to me that they sell it in a 4L bottle, im guessing the majority of cars would need more than this to be filled. as if the oil doesnt cost enough as it is, they make you buy a second bottle, probably for more $/L, and you have spare left over afterwards.

[Birds]

hahaha, i just want to protect my engine as well as i can

i think ill go with the 8100 then. it sounds like a good oil from the comments of everyone in this thread. a 5w would protect my engine better than a 10w at start-up anyway wouldn't it?

i'd still be keen on trying out sougi though if its almost inline with motul 300v quality wise for a smidge of the price.

anyone in perth know where i can pick up a bottle??

Thinner is not always better...thin is good for circulation, but the thinner an oil is, the thinner the protective coating it puts on internals and the less shear resistance it has. You want a balance between too thin and too thick - on startup for our engines a 10w is pretty good.

[j3zz4]

ok, thanks for clearing that up

i just found a place that sells sougi in perth (close to my area as well!) so i will be picking up a 5L bottle of that tomorrow morning

i hope it's as good as you all say it is!

[BASHO]

Can buy O2 sensors anywhere mate, from Nissan, Burson, eBay etc.

Genuine and aftermarket parts available, no real difference. It is on the dump pipe - bit of a bitch to undo with conventional spanners particularly if it's never been replaced before. Should cost between $80-150 depending where you buy from.

$260 From Nissan, priced it last week as it's the last item to do on my 80/100000ks service --thank faaaaaaaaark.

[jonn]

You can buy the 300V in a 25L drum. That would do five oil changes @ 4.7L with just a bit left over.

[Galois]

thanks for the help guys, i'll get an o2 sensor very soon.

+1 for 8100 being just fine. it will get into the small components and round your engine and turbo quicker, reducing initial wear of components before the oil reaches them. AND immediately as its being used it will heat up and catch up quickly to the 10w viscosity (i know it'd be chasing a moving visosity target but they'll get closer and closer). also, as said above, the weights are effectively just an approximation, and as birds has said many many times, there is very little difference between 5w and 10w

8100 was by a really long way the best oil i have used. i'll be picking up sougi next week as well as battery lol

how much for a 25L barrel of 300V?

[j3zz4]

ok, thanks Galois

How much for a 25L barrel of 300V?

also keen to know this.

[KrazyKong]

$260 From Nissan, priced it last week as it's the last item to do on my 80/100000ks service --thank faaaaaaaaark.

Basho, don't pay $260 when you can pay $77 instead. Try this link http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ng...25det-p-42.html

Kudos are based in Nerang, so you might even be able to pick it up and save on some shipping costs.

I bought one from them and can't say enough how helpful they were. Great prices and great service. I took some pics of the sensor which you can find here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/-t...t&p=5225914

You can buy the 300V in a 25L drum. That would do five oil changes @ 4.7L with just a bit left over.

That's interesting, I didn't know 300V came in that large a size. Though if I was buying 25L of any oil, it would be Sougi right now.

Edited May 20, 2010 by KrazyKong

[Galois]

i was just looking there on their site.

so it was fairly simple, even if a bit fiddly? just unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one and plug in? there's no issue with the plug fitting? cheers for the savings kong! lol $77 is quite affordable

Edited May 20, 2010 by Galois

[KrazyKong]

i was just looking there on their site.

so it was fairly simple, even if a bit fiddly? just unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one and plug in? there's no issue with the plug fitting? cheers for the savings kong! lol $77 is quite affordable

You can't get anymore simple than that. It has the exact same connection as the one that's already on your car, so no soldering, wiring or anything is needed. The hardest part is taking off the old spark plug really. Other than that it's a perfect replacement for a fraction of the cost.