The Goods On Oils

[KrazyKong]

I half expect a UOA report to state oils like Penrite and Nulon have less traces of X in them compared with other oils... therefore they are better because you're engine won't ...

some_cs_student, there's more than a few Sougi users here, and also others who have and can give real world comparisons for what they used before vs using Sougi now. These real world comparrisons carry alot of weight. I can't get advice from someone running an Audi or Falcon as they are entirely different cars. Don't get me wrong, I don't think a UOA is a bad thing, but I don't think a UOA is going to tell me what oil will run better in my car. All it will do is tell me what trace elements, minerals and other things are in the oil.

Birds, you're right 100% here. Real world usage is what counts. Driving the car, hearing it, feeling how it performs is enough for me to say X product is working very well in my car. Price also matters too for alot of us. We all want to use the best, but I know I'm not the only one who can afford the "best". And then the term "best" is often a subjective thing anyway. So we make our decisions based on price and what we perceive to be the best product for that price.

M5000 sounds like a winner then Birds. Definitely makes sense to use it if only doing 5000kms eh. You said it has the same additives as S6000. So what's the difference then? Less % Ester as the base?

[Birds]

I'll try and find out from GW the exact difference between M and S, but as far as I know it's just the base oil, being that M is a semi blend...so yes, less ester % in the base than S. Maybe give M a try next time and see what you think? I'll let you know how I go either way. I'm also attending a track day soon so that will give it a good test.

[Galois]

it feels like there's one less thing to worry about in the car amidst suspension creaks, crunching synchros and worn thrust bearings.

hahaha aren't cars fun. there are so many little noises that i doubt i'll ever track down

I'll try and find out from GW the exact difference between M and S, but as far as I know it's just the base oil, being that M is a semi blend...so yes, less ester % in the base than S. Maybe give M a try next time and see what you think? I'll let you know how I go either way. I'm also attending a track day soon so that will give it a good test.

does it have any ester or is it a mineral/POA blend? ie: is it III/IV, IV/V or III/IV/V?

[Birds]

That is one of the things I plan on finding out, but I'd say a blend of mineral and ester as the GW website states ester technology in the title of M5000.

Don't know the exact figure for this one but most semi synthetics are blended at 30% synthetic.

[Galois]

That is one of the things I plan on finding out, but I'd say a blend of mineral and ester as the GW website states ester technology in the title of M5000.

Don't know the exact figure for this one but most semi synthetics are blended at 30% synthetic.

wow very good birds haha, have a brochure in my hand saying m5000 is 30% polyol ester base, so i guess the rest is grade III?

ie: this is a III/V rather than a III/IV?

so that would mean that only roughly 70% of the oil is decaying at 5000km providing better protection than say a 30% synthetic III/IV such as nulon? not bad for half the price

Edited May 25, 2010 by Galois

[KrazyKong]

It seems all semi's are 30% "something". That something can be Group IV or V. Since ester is Group V, M5000 would be III/V vs the III/IV semis from Penrite, Nulon, Castrol & Mobils etc.

[Birds]

Sounds logical to me...although I think Galois is being too exact on the service interval front - they're just estimates man

As I said, adjust the service intervals accordingly with track days, periods of inactivity, highway/city driving etc.

[Galois]

hahaha im just getting an idea. i was thinking along the lines of the advantages of using grade V vs grade IV in a mix, but in the wider picture i guess sougi makes a grade V so uses the grade V rather than stuffing round with a pao.

could have used any number of kms, 5000 just came to mind lol. my point was at any point in its use an ester mix would be better than a pao mix, assuming there's no weird chemistry happening with the weird random mix in the mineral oil (but sougi is no doubt on top of that).

got some sougi today oil change tomorrow morning to get that grindy shitty castrol magnatec outta my car!!

[Birds]

I would laugh so hard if Galois came back and told us the Magnatec was better

[KrazyKong]

That would be funny to hear lol. Though I have a feeling Sougi won't let us down.

[some_cs_student]

Alright well maybe give Sougi a go and give us a UOA while you're at it

I'll be sure to get round to that at some point. Why don't you do it first ?

If you want to say the same thing about other oils you're free to do that...this whole thread is void of UOAs...as far as I can see it's a bunch of people saying "I use x oil because it feels better in my car" and that's all the 6 or so people have done about Sougi for the last few pages. I never said there was anything wrong with group III/IV oils either. More important are viscosity and additives used, rather than the group classification it meets because of the base oil used. However, there's no denying 300V is an awesome oil and incidentally it's a Group V like Sougi.

I really like the idea of having an affordable group V. I don't have anything against sougi

German Castol 0w30 might be a high quality oil and good at what it does but the viscosity is not really suited to Australian climate/conditions, not in our engines. That's the problem with following recommendations on an overseas based website...but if it works wonders for you then more power to you, and maybe one day try another oil like Sougi and see if you think 0w30 still serves you better - it may well do.

The advice was not from an overseas person, and I'm happy with the oil. I do have an oil gauge in the car and I am aware of what temperatures it gets to.

I disagree with you here but I will not debate this further, I don't have the energy/time

Viscosity was discussed in the thread much earlier on...

What I'm getting at, is that every scenario is different and even two cars of the same make and model aren't guaranteed to work well with the same oil, especially after 100,000km of driving. So even UOA have extraneous variables that make test results non-applicable to everyone. I've maintained throughout this thread that if an oil works well for someone they should keep using it because in the end they're the one who has to drive the vehicle and knows what feels good in it and what doesn't.

Completely agree here. However I would prefer a UOA over someone saying there engine "sounds" smoother, its a personal opinion and I'd prefer something a little more scientific.

But I agree that UOA's will vary even on the same model/engine.

I just wanted to voice my opinion as the last few pages are effectively about Sougi, as if there are no other oils in existence, and that's not a personal attack on anyone here, its just what I'm reading.

Anyway, on this note I'll leave this thread again, have fun.

[Birds]

Why leave the thread? Stay and discuss, that's what this thread is about...just because your opinion differs from ours does not mean it is not welcome. And we don't have to argue about it. I agree with you the last few pages have been about Sougi but that's cause there isn't a Sougi thread for all these new users to brag/complain about the oil, and they discovered it in this thread. Reality is car enthusiasts like talking about things they've had positive experience with, even if the last few pages sound like a running advertisement / sales pitch for the product.

Reason I won't do a UOA is because I simply can't be bothered...the results mean nothing to me because of the rationale I presented before. I'm happy to trust my feel of the vehicle, but if you're after something more scientific then go for it. If I cared about marketing the thing I probably would do it myself, or I'd give you a free bottle of Sougi and ask you to do it for me

But I don't...so I won't

[Galois]

I would laugh so hard if Galois came back and told us the Magnatec was better

omfg i'll cry, i'd go back to nulon or 8100

Reality is car enthusiasts like talking about things they've had positive experience with, even if the last few pages sound like a running advertisement / sales pitch for the product.

not just positive experiences haha.

magnatec isn't an oil you want to use on rb engines. im sure there are infinitely better grade III oils which are fine for low load, light use, but my engine makes awful sounds at high rpm, kind of raspy and rough, like gravel instead of petrol haha. and by haha i mean tears

was going to do the oil today but it was massively hectic before the puncture and the car not starting (damn battery). now its tomorrows job, with a host of others

[pipster11]

someone told me that autobarn is selling the cheap gw oil for $5/bottle

get down there quick for some cheap flushing oil

[KrazyKong]

someone told me that autobarn is selling the cheap gw oil for $5/bottle

get down there quick for some cheap flushing oil

I did just that some weeks back and decided against putting in the cheapy stuff. Since I was going from a semi synthetic to a fully synthetic, the idea of putting in $10 stuff didn't make sense once I got around to doing it. Then I'd have a mixture of cheap/semi and full instead of just semi/full.

However as far as oil goes, the GW cheapy is actually quite good. Going to use it on the oldies car for their next change as their car as 300k on it and I don't think putting in a $70 bottle of Penrite is a worthy investment lol.

[TUF250]

so the general opinion here seems to be that the motul turbolight 4100 is a better choice for the rb25 than the nulon 10W40 (apparent 'full syn')?

I just did an oil change with the nulon in mine but from what im reading here I might put the motul in it next time

[Birds]

The cheap GW stuff is pretty good at what it does, flushing and older vehicles...we ran one of our old utes on it for ages - given it would burn through a litre of oil a week, it certainly saved us lots of money. Don't have to do oil changes when your vehicle consumes it

[pipster11]

I did just that some weeks back and decided against putting in the cheapy stuff. Since I was going from a semi synthetic to a fully synthetic, the idea of putting in $10 stuff didn't make sense once I got around to doing it. Then I'd have a mixture of cheap/semi and full instead of just semi/full.

However as far as oil goes, the GW cheapy is actually quite good. Going to use it on the oldies car for their next change as their car as 300k on it and I don't think putting in a $70 bottle of Penrite is a worthy investment lol.

yeah, i was mentioning cos many of us either have another car or do oil changes for family members and mates

i'll be doing a few for both lol

[Galois]

someone told me that autobarn is selling the cheap gw oil for $5/bottle

get down there quick for some cheap flushing oil

cheers for the heads up mate. i'll be doing the same as you guys i think, buying for other cars

so the general opinion here seems to be that the motul turbolight 4100 is a better choice for the rb25 than the nulon 10W40 (apparent 'full syn')?

I just did an oil change with the nulon in mine but from what im reading here I might put the motul in it next time

could always try sougi m5000 10w40 if you want a cheap semi-synthetic

[Galois]

ps, for anyone interested, the sale is on till the 6th (at my local one anyways)