The Goods On Oils

[S4LVA]

8100 put in. Car runs very nicely

[Galois]

8100 put in. Car runs very nicely

Glad to hear it mate, nothing quite like the little hints of happiness that new engine blood gives you. Did mine today, always love it, can't smell anything other than the oil that soaked into my hands too haha

[Rolls]

8100 put in. Car runs very nicely

It runs any different?

[S4LVA]

It ran really good on the Nissan oil before, so its hardly noticeable but the engine felt like it was working a tiny bit smoother. Probably just the car liking the cold night air lol. I'm not sure.

[Birds]

Probably just the fresh oil feeling. It will most likely run better than the previous oil did when the engine is warmed up though.

[LotusGTR]

I'm sure the answer is in this (massive) thread, but can someone let me know what oil to use for a GTR change. It's unopened 290RWKW, street diven, good condition. I'm guessing full synth. If you can give me a few brands and recommended weight that'd be good. I'm buying from Autobarn as it's next door to the place doing the change, so hopefully available from there. Ryco filter OK?

[JGTC]

depending on how built your motor is, you may have to refer to the workshop/builder as to what is best for your motor, but considering the car is street driven, Mobil 1 or Motul 300V preferably with a 10w40 weight, as 0w30 or 0w40 may be a little thin for a car thats 20+ years old. both options are very well regarded and are safe choices for your car

re: filter, try get your hands on a genuine nissan filter which can be found at any import parts shop, but probably not autobarn, stick with genuine nissan, hks or trust filters if your trusting 290rwkw+ to it, they cost pretty much the same as a ryco one would

danny

Edited September 20, 2010 by squareznboxez

[LotusGTR]

depending on how built your motor is, you may have to refer to the workshop/builder as to what is best for your motor, but considering the car is street driven, Mobil 1 or Motul 300V preferably with a 10w40 weight, as 0w30 or 0w40 may be a little thin for a car thats 20+ years old. both options are very well regarded and are safe choices for your car

re: filter, try get your hands on a genuine nissan filter which can be found at any import parts shop, but probably not autobarn, stick with genuine nissan, hks or trust filters if your trusting 290rwkw+ to it, they cost pretty much the same as a ryco one would

danny

Thanks. Nissan dealer is opposite Autoboarn and they have 18 in stock for $15 a go. Cheers.

[Trozzle]

Have been using Motul 8100 5w40 for a while now on stock engine, but have just had new turbo etc done and tuned for 284rwkw @ 15psi, and was advised by tuner that 5w40 was too thin, and I should start using 10w40 or 10w30. while I have no gripes with doing this as his advice is what I should be following, I was wondering what the reasoning for this would be. He mentioned something along the lines of the thinner oil breaking down under high boost, and something to do with cold start...Can anyone shed any light? thanks

[pipster11]

Have been using Motul 8100 5w40 for a while now on stock engine, but have just had new turbo etc done and tuned for 284rwkw @ 15psi, and was advised by tuner that 5w40 was too thin, and I should start using 10w40 or 10w30. while I have no gripes with doing this as his advice is what I should be following, I was wondering what the reasoning for this would be. He mentioned something along the lines of the thinner oil breaking down under high boost, and something to do with cold start...Can anyone shed any light? thanks

to be honest mate, there is not much difference at all

run the sougi, you won't be disappointed

5w and 10w are the cold rating = the viscosity at room temp, so that viscosity is only useful during the first few mins of the engine running and the difference between the 2 would not be noticeable really, 5w and 20w would be but you mas as well run 10w, its more common

[Galois]

I'm sure the answer is in this (massive) thread, but can someone let me know what oil to use for a GTR change. It's unopened 290RWKW, street diven, good condition. I'm guessing full synth. If you can give me a few brands and recommended weight that'd be good. I'm buying from Autobarn as it's next door to the place doing the change, so hopefully available from there. Ryco filter OK?

k&n and drift filters also have a lot of fans on sau

[Rolls]

Have been using Motul 8100 5w40 for a while now on stock engine, but have just had new turbo etc done and tuned for 284rwkw @ 15psi, and was advised by tuner that 5w40 was too thin, and I should start using 10w40 or 10w30. while I have no gripes with doing this as his advice is what I should be following, I was wondering what the reasoning for this would be. He mentioned something along the lines of the thinner oil breaking down under high boost, and something to do with cold start...Can anyone shed any light? thanks

I don't get why he would recommend a thicker oil when cold, when cold ALL oils are too thick, so a thinner cold rating has to be better, be interested to hear his answer if you told him this. I think it comes down to the fact that 95% of people have absolutely no idea about oils even when they sound like they do.

Edited September 20, 2010 by Rolls

[Galois]

I don't get why he would recommend a thicker oil when cold, when cold ALL oils are too thick, so a thinner cold rating has to be better, be interested to hear his answer if you told him this. I think it comes down to the fact that 95% of people have absolutely no idea about oils even when they sound like they do.

It might be due to the fact that an na rb engine can cope well with w50 oils, but the tolerances in the turbo mean that we have to run w40 oils. If the turbo tolerances are larger, since the turbo is the restriction the oil can be thicker and provide the engine with better protection.

Just a thought

[Rolls]

Thicker doesn't provide better protection, it is just required when you have very large or worn (large) tolerances.

Edited September 20, 2010 by Rolls

[Galois]

Higher viscosity (ie thicker) will be more resistant to a shear force, which means there will be more oil between metal parts in contact, as opposed to the oil being moved/pushed/drained away.

If thicker doesn't correlate to better protection, why don'e we all use 0w0 oils?

[pipster11]

Thicker doesn't provide better protection, it is just required when you have very large or worn (large) tolerances.

+1000000000000000

a stagea owner was also told recently by a gw rep that he should use something other than sougi

either http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/Syn%20X%203000.html or http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/Protecta%20Ultra.html

or something like that

he said it had better adhesion to metallic surfaces than the sougi

[Birds]

You want some thickness to an oil on startup, it has to circulate quickly but it also has to take up tolerances offered by cold engine internals and absorb some heavy impact from them. Thinner is not always better. 10w40 is a nice viscosity index for a standard RB engine.

Most engine wear occurs during startup and cool down. You don't want some piss thin oil not doing it's job during startup.

As for warmed up, that's forever a balance between getting the oil in between the parts and providing a thick enough layer to actually do something once it's there. If thinner was better we would put water in the crank case...

[Rolls]

Higher viscosity (ie thicker) will be more resistant to a shear force, which means there will be more oil between metal parts in contact, as opposed to the oil being moved/pushed/drained away.

If thicker doesn't correlate to better protection, why don'e we all use 0w0 oils?

Sorry I made a bit of an inaccurate statement, you are right there will be more oil between the two surfaces but at startup is when the trouble occurs, oil takes too long to flow through the parts and properly coat everything hence greater wear and less protection, also there is more power loss the thicker the oil.

When the engine is at operating temp a really thin oil is going to offer less protection then a thicker oil, but thanks to the wonders of oil pumps and all the viscosity improving additives bugger all wear occurs during the running of the motor and the majority occurs at startup, hence a thinner oil generally provides better protection.

Edited September 20, 2010 by Rolls

[bronald]

Whoa, after reading this thread, my head asplode.

Cliffnotes time.

Car ER34 GT

Engine RB25DE Neo

ks 70,000

Engine oil - 10w30 semi syn castrol or 10w40 castrol?

Box oil - ? What do I use

Diff oil - ? What do I use

+1 to those who help

Edited September 21, 2010 by bronald

[Wacky Dee]

I'm using Motul 8100 right now and can't fault it.

Having said that, I think all this 5W40 and 10W40 being "ideal" is a little silly. Yes it's a good range but my mechanic who I trust to know what he's saying said I could run 20W50 in it no worries. This was recommended as a possible solution to queting down the lifter tapping on cold starts.

I might actually try 15W40 or 15W50 for my next oil change which should be sometime in December ie. temps will be high anyway.

What's a good but not too exxy synthetic oil that comes in 15W40 ?