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PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
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rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

UOA completed for German Castrol 0w30

Before everyone jumps on it and says its too thin, the car never saw above 85degrees on water/oil, except one really hot day where I think it might have hit 90degrees.

How do you manage to keep oil temp below 85 - you must have an oil cooler. My normal oil temp is 80, and if I start doing some mountain driving, revving it out, it easily climbs past 100deg.

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

How do you manage to keep oil temp below 85 - you must have an oil cooler. My normal oil temp is 80, and if I start doing some mountain driving, revving it out, it easily climbs past 100deg.

Yes, a Greddy radiator generally keeping my water at 70 degrees. And an oil cooler with no obstruction from the radiator, mounted in the LHS side of the front bar.

Oil is 70 degrees on most days under normal driving.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

I see you finally found a test Gareth, how much did it cost?

I ended up paying $32.50 in the end, the choices were http://www.oilcheck.com.au/index.html

or http://www.e-monitor.com.au/

The report looks cool on the first one, but there are "levels" of service you pay for, starting at ~$38.

The first one didn't answer email inquiries, but call them, there customer service is excellent once you do get in contact :)

I will probably post the analysis of BITOG and see what they think. Looks good to me :)

The analysis took 2 days approx, and the report got emailed through. It was delayed because I bought a magnetic sump plug this time so delayed the oil change.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Cheers mate!

Well, now knowing that my gearbox had ATF in it I don't even wanna know what kind of oil was used in the engine. I'll drop the oil after 3,500kms and then keep a look on it. There is definitely no sludge build up that I can see, which is a good sign.

About Racepace using 10W-60 - I would compare that with race teams using 75W-140 in diffs instead of 75W-90 - racing and street driving are two different things. I'm sure 60 will do a great job for engines used for racing, but that doesn't mean you should use it in your daily driver.

On the money you are :)

We use a synthetic 10w60 in our S15 race car along with 85w140 diff oil, it's the way to go for those high temperature environments. I also sell 25w70 to alcohol powered sprint cars lol - the people running them swear by it and it's dirt cheap. Same oil is used in 4000hp+ top fuel dragsters.

How do you know it was ATF? The colour? Because some Redline oils are red in colour. That said, ATF can be used in a manual transmission when 75w90 is too thick, e.g. after reconditioning or if the synchros are giving you grief as a bandaid fix.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

racepace use 10w60 as it can be used for daily and track afaik.

the reccomended viscosity for an RB30 is 15w50 (according to motul book at work) and the bottom end design has not changed that much for later RB's

due to the lower cold weight it's better for cold driving, and repeated on/off stuff, but has the thickness to be smashed when required.

RB engines are old technology, and are not setup for 0w30's and such like the engines of today

also, I have a nismo diff and even for a daily it is much better with a 75w140 than a 75w90

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

for a purely street driven RB i'd stick with motul turbolight 10w40, but if it is stressed regularly (like many many are, the edge 10w60 is a better bet)

as I said before, if my car wasn't dailied at all i'd just go 300V 20w60 :)

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Oh cool, let us know how it goes. I've nearly sold out of it :(

Only 1 more box left and the rest I'll be keeping for myself and my track cars. Still a fair bit of M5000 left though.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

I would grab that last box mate but that would just be greedy as I have 10 bottles left. lol.

Hahaha I'm banning you from buying it mate, just like you can get a gambler banned from gaming venues.

EAT26 Community Regular

EAT26

Posted
Posted

I usually use Castrol Edge 0w-40w I have not had an issue with this oil however for a change I thought I would try Royal Purple seeing its meant to be the ducks nuts so I bought royal purple 5w-30w and now my engine feels sluggish I think I will be draining the oil out this coming week and going back to castrol edge.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

w30 is thought to be too light for rb's 1-2 decades old with many km in the aussie climate. Most people use w40, try RP/sougi/motul 5w40 or 10w40 if you want a change.

Changing oil company and grade means any differences you notice could be an effect of either change.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

racepace use 10w60 as it can be used for daily and track afaik.

The only issue with an oil like this is because of the large range it has a lot of friction modifiers to achieve this, this means that it breaks down faster and doesn't last as long so you need to make sure you change it at the proper intervals.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted

syn-x is still going well

100,000km service kit is on its way too :) ($260AUD from the USA)

might refresh the syn-x when i do the timing belt

Pipster, how does Syn-X compare with M5000, S6000, Motul or the other oils you've used in the past?

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

Oh cool, let us know how it goes. I've nearly sold out of it :(

Only 1 more box left and the rest I'll be keeping for myself and my track cars. Still a fair bit of M5000 left though.

Hi Birds - just a query about this S6000 oil people are talking about. Is it impossible to buy in the shops?

How much is it for a 5L?

I'm 1000kms away from my next service, got the filter already, Bosch filter, and now I'm chasing some oils - maybe AMSOIL AMO 10W-40, or maybe I try this S6000 if I can buy some somewhere, or of you.

Cheers.

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