The Goods On Oils

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

motul 81xx oils are all group IV (100% synthetic)

the 61xx and 41xx (which includes turbolight) are group III

i think it's important for people to remember that there is a difference between fully synthetic and 100% synthetic.

"fully synthetic" is NOT group IV and will have some mineral content

"100% synthetic" is Group IV or V and CAN NOT have ANY mineral content

[fourtwodoubleone]

how cheap? the gw stuff that supercheap stocks has decent detergents in it and will be about as good as the valvoline stuff but only $26

I am pretty sure it was $26

[Rolls]

motul 81xx oils are all group IV (100% synthetic)

in that case it sounds like x-cess is better value if it is as much as $20 cheaper at some places, also has a better cold viscosity, whether this means it has more additives and won't last as long I don't know.

Edited April 7, 2011 by Rolls

[iamhe77]

i think it's important for people to remember that there is a difference between fully synthetic and 100% synthetic.

"fully synthetic" is NOT group IV and will have some mineral content

"100% synthetic" is Group IV or V and CAN NOT have ANY mineral content

If that's the case, please explain the Nulon "100% Synthetic" 10w40 oil.

There is no way that shit is Group IV and there is no chance that shit is ever going anywhere near my wife's Magna again... let alone my Stagea!

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

nulon have a 100% synthetic range - doesn't mean it's good tho

motul's 5w40 definately has more additives than the other.

in the 300v range all the oils can be mixed and matched for custom viscosities, EXCEPT 5w40

[Trozzle]

motul 81xx oils are all group IV (100% synthetic)

the 61xx and 41xx (which includes turbolight) are group III

i think it's important for people to remember that there is a difference between fully synthetic and 100% synthetic.

"fully synthetic" is NOT group IV and will have some mineral content

"100% synthetic" is Group IV or V and CAN NOT have ANY mineral content

Not so much mineral content...I believe that what information I could find indicated that it was ruled that some of the waxes they add to some oils can be called "synthetic", and therefore a "fully synthetic" oil only had to be 75% synth plus the other shit they let past.

If that's the case, please explain the Nulon "100% Synthetic" 10w40 oil.

There is no way that shit is Group IV and there is no chance that shit is ever going anywhere near my wife's Magna again... let alone my Stagea!

What problem did you have with it? I'm running it at the moment and haven't noticed any problems...will be doing a change soon too so I'll see what it looks like. changing at 4000km since the only bloody driving my car really sees is almost always on cold start map so I'm a little worried that I've farked the oil from fuel that hasn't evaporated. Drive to work only sees my water temp get to 65 - 70 deg

[Galois]

I liked the nulon in the old 34, but did think it was overpriced for a non-synthetic. For an extra $10 you could pick up 8100 xcess and change the oil later.

[KrazyKong]

I was very close to trying that Nulon "synthetic" stuff after seeing the youtube video of the dyno testing other oils. But then the comments all mentioned the fan in front of the radiator and intercooler was 1-2 feet closer on the Nulon test only, thus explaining the gain in HP. Once I looked at it further and found out it's only Group 3 and not genuine synthetic at all I lost all interest and respect for it.

[Rolls]

I was very close to trying that Nulon "synthetic" stuff after seeing the youtube video of the dyno testing other oils. But then the comments all mentioned the fan in front of the radiator and intercooler was 1-2 feet closer on the Nulon test only, thus explaining the gain in HP. Once I looked at it further and found out it's only Group 3 and not genuine synthetic at all I lost all interest and respect for it.

Yeah that test was a load of shit, lots of good comments on the video explaining why.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

lol that reminds me of this demo thingy we have at work, it's a mobil thing with 2 tubes of oil and a ballbearing in each.

as you turn it upside down you see how much faster the ball falls in the tube filled with mobil 1 synthetic, as opposed to mineral oil

when you read the fine print however, the mobil oil is 0w40 vs 15w40 mineral oil

[Rolls]

All that would show is that one is thicker lol ? should put a third tube with water haha

I guess it looks fancy and probably helps them sell more oil though heh

Edited April 10, 2011 by Rolls

[Galois]

lol that reminds me of this demo thingy we have at work, it's a mobil thing with 2 tubes of oil and a ballbearing in each.

as you turn it upside down you see how much faster the ball falls in the tube filled with mobil 1 synthetic, as opposed to mineral oil

when you read the fine print however, the mobil oil is 0w40 vs 15w40 mineral oil

Bahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. Companies are just so trustworthy, would never manipulate or try to fool anyone.

So much lol.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

best bit is that i use it to show people how dodgy mobil is, and then use that as a way of getting them over to motul

[iamhe77]

What problem did you have with it? I'm running it at the moment and haven't noticed any problems...will be doing a change soon too so I'll see what it looks like. changing at 4000km since the only bloody driving my car really sees is almost always on cold start map so I'm a little worried that I've farked the oil from fuel that hasn't evaporated. Drive to work only sees my water temp get to 65 - 70 deg

Only lasted 6000kms in my Wife's Magna (2003, 3.5 V6) which sits at 80-100kph on her daily drive to and from work (99.9% highway and 1 set of lights).

I do 10,000km changes but noticed a burned oil smell from her car one day (late Autumn/early Winter 2009)

Checked the oil level and at was juuust on the bare minimum.

Checked the engine bay for leaks but there were none.

Dropped the oil and it came out with chunks and an overwhelming burnt smell.

Never had an issue with Mobil 1 5w50 before nor after.

Like I said, won't ever touch Nulon oil again for her car, let alone touching the innards of my Stagea.

[Trozzle]

Only lasted 6000kms in my Wife's Magna (2003, 3.5 V6) which sits at 80-100kph on her daily drive to and from work (99.9% highway and 1 set of lights).

I do 10,000km changes but noticed a burned oil smell from her car one day (late Autumn/early Winter 2009)

Checked the oil level and at was juuust on the bare minimum.

Checked the engine bay for leaks but there were none.

Dropped the oil and it came out with chunks and an overwhelming burnt smell.

Never had an issue with Mobil 1 5w50 before nor after.

Like I said, won't ever touch Nulon oil again for her car, let alone touching the innards of my Stagea.

Fair enough fair enough. Mine's looking a little darker now than I'd expect for 4000km. I'll give it a change and a second chance to see how it looks this time round (got 2 5L bottles CHEEAAAP) so it's not too much of a worry dropping it again if it does the same thing. For now I'll give it the benefit of the doubt haha. Otherwise, the level hasn't dropped and I haven't smelt anything...

EDIT: I will add that I can hear very slight lifter noise where there hasn't been any before...

[pipster11]

just threw some $15 gw 20w50 in my new daily (4age corolla with ~290,000kms) runs well

i don't think you can go past it for cheap higher km motors

just annoying that most cars take over 4 litres of oil tho

[Kenna802]

well i dont know if its the best but i do know that syn x 3000 and a oil filter will set u back under 34 bucks at supercheap right now.

[StealthX]

Can someone learn me on penrite oils?

Enviro+ fully synthetic, or SIN 5 or 10 any good??

[khyle]

i just put castrol edge sports 0w 40 will that be ok i new the rb25 engines

[Trozzle]

Dropping the Nulon 10w40 100% synth stuff tomorrow morning, will let you know how it looks/smells lol