Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Things like zinc additives do help add kind of a lubrication effect because of the "softness" of the way the zinc attaches to the engine parts, but this effect is dwarfed by the actual lubrication effect of the oil.

On the dark oil, birds said pretty much everything I thought of lol, he has a habit of that :P, but he's very right that it takes a tiny amount to stain the oil black, and that the oil absorbs the carbon into it's structure, the carbon can't really escape this to build up anywhere. The oil can take an awful lot of carbon before reaching saturation. It's not like once the oil is resting after a change the carbon all falls to the bottom of the container, it stays in the suspension because of the particular physical chemistry effects the designed additives have.

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

This is what Motul France recommends.

that is interesting that they recommend a 5w30.... motul aust recommend 5w40 for RB's

also the sump capacity is wrong. they state 4.5lt when it's 5.5

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Haha Galois was waiting for your backup :P

Trying to find a clear cut answer on how much oil the gearbox takes is just as bad. In the end I just fill up oil until it's within the safe dipstick range, or in the case of gearbox and diff, fill up to the filler hole.

International recommendations = pointless. They are based on a completely different climate. France is cold as f***, it's no surprise they recommend something thin like that. Stick with the domestic arm if you're going to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

International recommendations = pointless. They are based on a completely different climate. France is cold as f***, it's no surprise they recommend something thin like that. Stick with the domestic arm if you're going to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Haha beat me again, I have to be quicker

megzz Collaborator

megzz

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

At least read the first post...

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

Engine will most likely be the same as for everyone else. Likewise for gearbox, except not so much info on that. Go with the recommended penrite syn or castrol if you want cheaper and throw in a bottle of nulon g70 additive (or is it g90, i can't remember, one is the replacement for the other).

No idea on the diff.

There is a transmission and diff oils thread in the drivetrain section but it's not quite as qualified as this oils thread haha

MrRx7s3 Mentor

MrRx7s3

Posted
Posted

I have been reading this threat for a while now and can't figure it out and I'm new to the turbo piston scene, I just got my 2001 r34 GTT basically stock and want to do an oil change but not quite sure on what oil to get? Any suggestions guys? It's got 63000kms on the clock, is 10/30 ok? Street driven but I have a heavy foot haha lol.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

You can't have been reading that long mate, that engine/car has been discussed on pretty much every page of it. Read the previous couple of pages and you'll find it there.

Gareth Collaborator

Gareth

Posted
Posted

good god i must have been reading this thread for about 2 hours. Might as well add my 2 cents i have been using Nulon 15W-50 (street and track performance) for a few oil changes now and it seems to be ok. I was thinking of giving Motul a go and after reading all the people bagging nulon i'm leaning more and more in this direction. I havn't really seen the 15W-50 mentioned everyone seems to use the 10W-40, i was told to use a 15W-50 by the mechanic at Chasers so thats what i did ending up at nulon because it was 15W-50 and 'synthetic' and reasonably priced. Plus its good to support local companies (so i'm told).....after reading all this though my opinion hasn't really changed, when next oil change is due i will check out price of Motul otherwise keep with the Nulon.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are these more specialised mechanics/builders, or your average falcodore servicing guy?

I've had a few mechanics who may be competent at the regular cars but I'd never take something different there.

Edited by Galois
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

good god i must have been reading this thread for about 2 hours. Might as well add my 2 cents i have been using Nulon 15W-50 (street and track performance) for a few oil changes now and it seems to be ok. I was thinking of giving Motul a go and after reading all the people bagging nulon i'm leaning more and more in this direction. I havn't really seen the 15W-50 mentioned everyone seems to use the 10W-40, i was told to use a 15W-50 by the mechanic at Chasers so thats what i did ending up at nulon because it was 15W-50 and 'synthetic' and reasonably priced. Plus its good to support local companies (so i'm told).....after reading all this though my opinion hasn't really changed, when next oil change is due i will check out price of Motul otherwise keep with the Nulon.

10w40 is fine for most r34 gtt's but if yours has low kms you'd probably be right running a 10w30

i use the gulf western syn-x 3000 and have done for a while now, its good, its cheap but it just doesn't last as long as the sougi (motul 300v equivalent) did

but for $33/bottle you can't complain

its a 10w40 btw and i run it in a s2 stagea (rb25 neo with 108,000kms)

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

*then

Then what - just use it. Pretty sure 8100 only comes in 5W-40, I have it in my car now for just over 2,000kms and no problems. Car runs smoothly, oil has turned dark brownish, can't notice any issues. I'd recommend 8100, either one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...