Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

Hai guise, probably will be changing my oil tomorrow :].

From reading various pages of this thread, I have come to believe Sougi is the way to go :O.

But M5000 is no longer made (neither is S6000 which seemed more than I need anyway?), so I'm thinking of using Syn-X 3000, 10w40? Car is R34 N/A btw. Would this be sweet?

Ty for any advice :cheers:

do the syn-x 3000, for $35ish you can't go wrong

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

do the syn-x 3000, for $35ish you can't go wrong

Hi, Im newbie to this forum and to skylines in general, I have an R33 S1 - RB25DET and its running low on oil, I would like to know whats the best oil to use; to keep the engine running good and to make the engine run nicer, i want good quality oil for my skyline as the engines not the best atm and needs some TLC to make it happy again.

I understand, i should read each post and make my own decision, but I am asking for actual first hand responses from people who own an R33 and auto and to keep it running long term.

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

do the syn-x 3000, for $35ish you can't go wrong

Hi, Im newbie to this forum and to skylines in general, I have an R33 S1 - RB25DET and its running low on oil, I would like to know whats the best oil to use; to keep the engine running good and to make the engine run nicer, i want good quality oil for my skyline as the engines not the best atm and needs some TLC to make it happy again.

I understand, i should read each post and make my own decision, but I am asking for actual first hand responses from people who own an R33 and auto and to keep it running long term.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

running low on oil is not good, if its running low you probably have bigger problems to worry about

...so just just get anything 10-40..ask the guy at the shop they will tell you..then if it burns through it too quickly try a thicker oil..like 10-60 castrol edge or something

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

running low on oil is not good, if its running low you probably have bigger problems to worry about

...so just just get anything 10-40..ask the guy at the shop they will tell you..then if it burns through it too quickly try a thicker oil..like 10-60 castrol edge or something

HI, i just got the car and checked the dipstick, the car was cold but it looked low on the stick, and ALOT of ppl have been talking about needing to use a certain type of oil and consistency etc, ive heard castrol and shell helix is shite? but as long as its 10-40 or 10-60 should be fine, just thought it needed to be GOOD brands

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

not much use using good brands if its burning oil..

edge and helix are ok for the money ..id try one of them first..get a 10-40 do an oil change and keep an eye on it, if it burns oil then get a thicker 10-60 oil..if it doesnt burn oil then stick with a 10-40

or dont worry and just put a 10-60 in it..

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't bother topping up whatever oil is in there, I would do a oil change + filter and put new oil in, a decent 10w40 (is what you want for any RB) semi-synth like motul 4100 turbolight (lots of people have success with this one) or the cheaper gw syn-x 3000 and keep an eye on oil use. Only then if it's still burning through oil, it might need looking at (compression tested etc), going up to a 15w50 or 10w60 might prevent the oil use, they just aren't ideal for a street driven RB.

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't bother topping up whatever oil is in there, I would do a oil change + filter and put new oil in, a decent 10w40 (is what you want for any RB) semi-synth like motul 4100 turbolight (lots of people have success with this one) or the cheaper gw syn-x 3000 and keep an eye on oil use. Only then if it's still burning through oil, it might need looking at (compression tested etc), going up to a 15w50 or 10w60 might prevent the oil use, they just aren't ideal for a street driven RB.

Hi, again thanks for the advice, but I am unsure who it was that looked at my car and told me the oil was low :P I just looked this morning before I went out, and the dipstick is full oil like 6inchs along the dipstick except its darker then brown, close to black, in saying that I believe it would be due for a service and change! BUT isnt it true that MOST service centre put crap oil into the car like semi synth? anyways I went to my local repco and they actually have BOTH Motul 8100 Xcess & Motul 300V chrono which I believe are the best oils on the market for my RB25DET.... I want to get a service done but use these oils to fill the engine and then continue to use them as I have heard good reviews.

thanks, on the other hand my auto trans fluid was low so I put some more into that and see how it goes, I now know it must be DEX III not the other crap as I was told by the service guy at repco based on the books he has for the RB25DET.

thanks again, if ANYONE in Adelaide knows of a good place for service prices and reliability do tell. OR feel free to offer your services as I am not a mechanic in anyway shape or form I am WEST SUBS of ADEL

fastjetjockey Collaborator

fastjetjockey

Posted
Posted

^ hey bro, having too much oil can be just as bad as not having enough. Wipe your dipstick, then re-dip to take a reading. Make sure your car is on flat ground.

Too much oil and your crank can start churning the oil, filling it with air bubbles. These will make their way to your pickup and your contacting surfaces will not be getting that constant feed that creates a protective film. 6 inches up your dipstick is not healthy if it's a skyline dipstick!

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
anyways I went to my local repco and they actually have BOTH Motul 8100 Xcess & Motul 300V chrono which I believe are the best oils on the market for my RB25DET

So go buy the 8100 xcess and put it in.

thanks again, if ANYONE in Adelaide knows of a good place for service prices and reliability do tell. OR feel free to offer your services as I am not a mechanic in anyway shape or form I am WEST SUBS of ADEL

Check the SA section for a list of workshops, why don't you just do it yourself though? Changing oils, plugs, filters etc is a piece of piss. It is like 1 bolt for the oil.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Check the SA section for a list of workshops, why don't you just do it yourself though? Changing oils, plugs, filters etc is a piece of piss. It is like 1 bolt for the oil.

If I can manage changing plugs, fuel filters, oil filters, oil, etc - anyone can.

Really, for basic servicing like this, not doing it yourself is just silly.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

not much use using good brands if its burning oil..

edge and helix are ok for the money ..id try one of them first..get a 10-40 do an oil change and keep an eye on it, if it burns oil then get a thicker 10-60 oil..if it doesnt burn oil then stick with a 10-40

or dont worry and just put a 10-60 in it..

If it burns a poor quality 10w40... but a better quality 10w40 in there.

Example - My wife's Magna burned Nulon 10w40. ~6000kms after I serviced it she noticed a burning smell so I checked it and dumped the oil.

Only 2-2.5 of the 5L came out.

Have mainly used Valvoline 5w40 since (sometimes Mobil 1)... no burning at all and 99% of what went in comes out.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Hi, again thanks for the advice, but I am unsure who it was that looked at my car and told me the oil was low :P I just looked this morning before I went out, and the dipstick is full oil like 6inchs along the dipstick except its darker then brown, close to black, in saying that I believe it would be due for a service and change!

Hope you checking your oil hot!

Can change level on the dipstick considerably if ya check before you drive

as opposed to once its up to temperature.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Hi, again thanks for the advice, but I am unsure who it was that looked at my car and told me the oil was low :P I just looked this morning before I went out, and the dipstick is full oil like 6inchs along the dipstick except its darker then brown, close to black, in saying that I believe it would be due for a service and change!

Hope you checking your oil hot!

Can change level on the dipstick considerably if ya check before you drive

as opposed to once its up to temperature.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Hi, again thanks for the advice, but I am unsure who it was that looked at my car and told me the oil was low :P I just looked this morning before I went out, and the dipstick is full oil like 6inchs along the dipstick except its darker then brown, close to black, in saying that I believe it would be due for a service and change!

Hope you checking your oil hot!

Can change level on the dipstick considerably if ya check before you drive

as opposed to once its up to temperature.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Hi, again thanks for the advice, but I am unsure who it was that looked at my car and told me the oil was low :P I just looked this morning before I went out, and the dipstick is full oil like 6inchs along the dipstick except its darker then brown, close to black, in saying that I believe it would be due for a service and change!

Hope you checking your oil hot!

Can change level on the dipstick considerably if ya check before you drive

as opposed to once its up to temperature.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • QB6SAGR
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
×
×
  • Create New...