The Goods On Oils

[JonnoHR31]

if its one thing ive learnt from owning a skyline, you cant go buy cheap shit like that, its generic repco stuff, you aint driving a commondor or ford anymore, these cars are performance!! I used to own a commondor and the oil was like $20 but now owning a skyline I get the good stuff $65 5litre bottle of 4100 MOTUL, you cant run cheap semi synth in ya RB, thats just a heads up, even if you do, you will probably have to change it more often

i wonder how all these RBs managed to survive the 80s and 90s where even the best oils werent as good as your average semi synth is now. as zebra said its not a F1 engine.

the gtx2 i used to put in my old rb30e was so shit it made noticeably more power after an oil change (only 5000kms), was still going strong after 400 000 k's of being abused.

paying any more than $50-60 per change for a street car with a stock motor is a complete waste. track work and built engines is a different story.

[ARTZ]

I like to run my engine on pure rose oil, it makes my exhaust fumes smell pretty..

[iamhe77]

300V chrono is probably motul's best oil (and expensive) for our cars, definitely on par with Amsoil's Group V oils, maybe even better.

Amsoil oils are Group IV. They do not have a Group V oil... as told to me by a number of Amsoil dealers (AUS and US) and by Amsoil themselves.

[Birds]

Have some Syn-X-6000 on order at the moment, which is a 5w40 full synthetic and technically Sougi's replacement. Will try it in my car and let you all know how it goes compared to Sougi. Shame it's a 5w and not 10w, but am told the difference between both of these start up viscosities is somewhat negligible and some companies actually get away with selling their 10w oil as a 5w anyway. Will also let you know the composition (group 4/5 etc.) and cost.

i wonder how all these RBs managed to survive the 80s and 90s where even the best oils werent as good as your average semi synth is now. as zebra said its not a F1 engine.

the gtx2 i used to put in my old rb30e was so shit it made noticeably more power after an oil change (only 5000kms), was still going strong after 400 000 k's of being abused.

paying any more than $50-60 per change for a street car with a stock motor is a complete waste. track work and built engines is a different story.

Because they were brand new engines? This is pretty poor logic IMO. It's okay to suggest that cheap oils won't hurt the engine, but I don't agree with you saying expensive oils are a complete waste. How did we survive in the 80's and 90's with slow computers, 486s and Pentium 2s...why not use these today? Because advancements have been made and you get better performance out of modern technology. Yes a mineral run of the mill 20w50 won't kill your RB engine, it will run on it all day long, but that doesn't mean a synthetic 10w40 with better additives won't be better for it. My mother couldn't tell you the difference between the feel of two different oils...but then, she can't hear the creak I have in my coilovers either. Some people are more in tune with their vehicles and aren't happy if it doens't feel right.

You won't kill an engine with a shit oil, but it will perform better with a good one and certainly feel better when you're driving it.

[Rolls]

You won't kill an engine with a shit oil, but it will perform better with a good one and certainly feel better when you're driving it.

You'll also have a much lighter wallet!

[JonnoHR31]

exactly. im not saying it doesnt make any difference, im saying for your average stocker motor spending an extra $50 per oil change simply isnt worth it when the motor is only work $1000, if that.

[Rolls]

Exactly, 10 oil changes and you've bought an entire motor!

It is retarded.

[Birds]

Well I get my oil for free so that's no issue for me, but if I was paying for it, I'd have no hesitation running an expensive oil. It's not a question of price though, it's quality...look how many people turned from 300v and other expensive Motuls to Sougi, which was half it's price. People are happy to make the switch to a cheaper oil as long as it performs the same, reality is they don't all perform the same. Feelsgoodman.jpg and you can't argue with subjective opinion on the feel of something

[luvpsi]

Im using a oil from one of our WA members who works for united oil. He uses it his race car and I have not had a problem with it it's a 5w50 and I have a he'll of alot better pressure at oil and has not broken down like my mibil1 did in about 1000kms

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

I put USED skyline oil in my barina lol, I never dump the oil, I just keep topping it up and it burns it. Put about 10L in there in the last 6 months.

lol... i do the same in the mrs's golf

[HYBR3D]

This thread just goes around in circles Ive done one oil change in my Rb20 so far and i used Castrol Edge 25-50, prob a bit high considering it was rebuilt a few years ago. Not sure what the last owner used but im thinking of going fully syn, i guess 5-30 or something next.

Going from one extreme to the next wont affect the engine to much or at all? It is only a daily, no track, just the odd blat and whip here and there.

I read on google somewhere that Mobil ! has deteriorated over the last few years and is no longer one of the top performers as they are about making money not quality oil and Castrol has boosted advertising like there's no tomorrow stating they are the best... Not to sure about that

[luvpsi]

I will repeat once and once only in any rb use a fully synth 10w40 with castrol edge you can't get a 10w40 so 10w60 shall be fine don't go any higher

[Raffa]

Has any one use NULON 15W50 Street & Track High Performance Eng Oil 5 litre

Edited January 8, 2012 by Raffa

[Checkbuzz]

+1 for Amsoil AMO 10w40 fully synthetic. Amsoil filters are pretty good to from what I have read & heard I use those when I can...

Although currently running a Drift magnetic filter which are also good (there is a thread on here somewhere about them)

I get all of this stuff from a mob called Lubrication Management who live this shit. It is all they do is sell and analyse oil... mainly for race teams

They were horrified that I was running Castrol Magnatec when I first rocked up and they made me flush the old oil - Jesus you should have seen the shit that came out!

If track your RB regularly a top quality oil & filter is an investment. Don't listen to some of the muppets on here that don't have a clue

[iamhe77]

Haha, not that I disagree with you regarding Amsoil oil and filters (have used both in the past), but you used Magnatec, then took your car to an Amsoil dealer who recommended their product (shock!), it was better than Magnatec (even greater shock!!) and you come in here to call others in this thread "muppets that don't have a clue".

Please.

Whilst Amsoil are a good oil, perhaps you need to do some research for yourself instead of just believing the first lubrication professional you speak to outside of Autobarn/Supercheap/Repco.

[Moodles2]

I agree with the above. Magnatec is the ass end of motoroils. just google "magnatec sludge"

If you actually read the thread at all before calling us muppets, you would have known there is a cheaper source for Amsoil... http://performancelub.com/Amsoil%20pricelist.htm

[Checkbuzz]

No actually my (very) ex-mechanic used magnatec in my car...

And I chose the dealer/specialist in question because I had done my research and had decided on Amsoil for my vehicle.

I wouldn't ask Autobarn/Supercheap or Repco for the time of day let alone advice on oil

You make alot of assumptions.

I wasn't calling everyone a muppet just those that were dispensing poor advice and making too many assumptions

Haha, not that I disagree with you regarding Amsoil oil and filters (have used both in the past), but you used Magnatec, then took your car to an Amsoil dealer who recommended their product (shock!), it was better than Magnatec (even greater shock!!) and you come in here to call others in this thread "muppets that don't have a clue".

Please.

Whilst Amsoil are a good oil, perhaps you need to do some research for yourself instead of just believing the first lubrication professional you speak to outside of Autobarn/Supercheap/Repco.

[Checkbuzz]

I'm not trolling just sharing my experience. I read the thread and I'm well aware of the PerfomanceLub website also thank you.

I certainly wasn't calling everyone muppets just those that appear to be offering expert advice on lubricants when they clearly don't have a clue (there are numerous examples in this thread which I'm sure I don't need to point out to you).

My appologies for any offence caused to those that don't fall into this category.

I agree with the above. Magnatec is the ass end of motoroils. just google "magnatec sludge"

If you actually read the thread at all before calling us muppets, you would have known there is a cheaper source for Amsoil... http://performancelu...20pricelist.htm

[starwarz]

Yesterday i tried Penrite HRP full synthetic 10w50 in my Neo RB25DE, it was using 10w30 Valvoline Synpower before that. The engine seems to approve and the oil pressure seems more stable then before, probally due to the change to a thicker oil.

[GTRAAH]

This has probably been answered in the 124 pages but i aint oging to click on each one to find my answer as it will take forever,I have an R32 GTR 1994 RB26DETT, with an Oil cooler + Oil filter and has been relocated. How many litres on oil should i putting in i have got different answers from diffferent people some say 5 some say 5.8- 6L which is the correct amount? My car is also modified, 330AWKW dont know if that makes a difference, But all internals are stock.