The Goods On Oils

[scotty nm35]

Yes, S6000 is a true synthetic.

No, not everyone is a tight ass.

I just picked up 20L of syn-x6000 today for $150, how can you beat that?

[Birds]

You can't!

[Birds]

What is the point in spending money on something that won't really help?

Because it does help. There's more to oil than just protection or engine longevity (but on that topic, a synthetic will last a lot longer than a mineral); I pay the extra for smoother performance alone. It's like HD vs normal TV: you will still see your show fine in non-HD, but why not enjoy it in a way that looks/feels better?

[bozodos]

Birds: do you know much about Royal Purple 10w40? My mechanic is trying hard to flog it to me, as its slightly cheaper than Edge, and I can buy it by the litre. Also got given a copy of the infamous Street Commodores oil review (mechanic claimed that the threat of legal action was the reason for the article's retraction)

[10 4]

^Its in my honda s2000 and previous GTRs/M3.

Good sheeeeet

[Moodles2]

Print out the street commodores oil review, and then use it to wipe your ass.

Regular RP is a Group IV oil, XPR is Group V. If you can get RP cheaper than Edge, go for it. People seem to have alot of success with RP on here with their skylines, no negatives that I can remember.

[Birds]

Birds: do you know much about Royal Purple 10w40? My mechanic is trying hard to flog it to me, as its slightly cheaper than Edge, and I can buy it by the litre. Also got given a copy of the infamous Street Commodores oil review (mechanic claimed that the threat of legal action was the reason for the article's retraction)

No personal experience with it, but 10w40 is the favourite RB friendly grade and there have been a few on here using Royal Purple's rendition with good reports, so I'd say go for it.

[starwarz]

Royal Purple is actually purple oil, i know because my mate puts it in his S15 and we were pouring his 5 left over bottle with about a liter in each into one bottle so it can be taken for a service. I was confused why and how they do it lol, purple additive ?

Edited July 3, 2012 by starwarz

[bozodos]

using it in an LSx, not an RB lol, used to use Motul 8100 Xcess 10w40 in that.

Been reading an absolute shitload of LS forums and BITOG lately, the main evidence for the Edge comes via Steve from Mainlube, who has filtergrams to back up his claims that Edge 10w60 is second only to the Mainlube 10w60 engine oil. (as well as being in that field etc).

Was mostly concerned with whether the regular RP was in fact a Group 4, or whether it was still a 2/3 with a custom additive package (as far as I can read it has a lot of ZDDP and Moly in it).

Moodles2: on further reading, it appears that the Timken machine used for that test is actually meant for testing out greases not engine oils. Also half of the oils mentioned in that review no longer exist.

[Moodles2]

Moodles2: on further reading, it appears that the Timken machine used for that test is actually meant for testing out greases not engine oils. Also half of the oils mentioned in that review no longer exist.

You won't believe how many morons keep bringing up that street commodores oil review in this thread alone. Everytime pointed out it's a grease testing method.

[Rolls]

You won't believe how many morons keep bringing up that street commodores oil review in this thread alone. Everytime pointed out it's a grease testing method.

Well to be fair if you had never read it before you wouldn't know.

[bozodos]

The mechanic has a stack of copies of the article printed out (by RP by the looks of it) sitting on the counter lolz.

In the end, 10w40 RP HPR is about the same price as paying full retail for Edge 10w60, went with the Edge as Supercheap had their 20% off sale, and BITOG / LS1.com.au had more people who had empirical evidence of the Edge being a good oil rather than "it feels better".

The change from the mineral 25w50 to the Group 4 10w60 is noticeable though; all of the lifter noise on cold startup has gone and it seems to be able to rev more freely. (not anal enough to also get the UOA).

[bozodos]

I would be wary of running Group 5 oils with older motors built with lower tolerances, just sayin'

[samuri]

Lets say the oil needs changing , according to manufacturers specs and isn't changed!

What noticeable signs or symptoms for the driver will show................( before the motor seizes and before significant damage.)

(I tend NOT to do the kilometres but tend to change beyond 6 months and more likely 12 months or more.One car is just used occasionally on weekend eg, 120km to coast and back, whilst the other is a daily but still less than 5000km a year)

Edited July 23, 2012 by samuri

[Birds]

Noisy lifters; engine runs/feels/idles rough; can make for a smokey exhaust from the oil breaking down. It can actually be a tough thing to notice until things get really bad. I've seen cars with no oil change for 75,000km and the driver hasn't noticed a thing (to be fair, driver was female). This is why I immediately scrap potential cars that say "lady owner" when I'm looking for cars. Lady owner doesn't mean treated kindly, it means not friggen serviced. I'll take the hoon with a bunch of service receipts thank you. Anyway...

The funny thing about oil being left in too long, is the point you get to where it is healthier to leave the unchanged oil in there for the rest of the engine's life. Like above in my 75,000km example, the engine internals had worn to a point where they depended on the sludgy oil to take up the slack...so removing this and replacing it with good oil actually made the engine noisy and more prone to failure lol.

This is why I'm against engine flushing with those engine cleaners...particularly with older engines. They are basically turpentine and kerosene mixes that removes good sludge from the engine. There are parts of the engine that new oil can't easily get to (or stay there) and you're removing the "good stuff" from there = bad!

Oil in a weekender car for a year won't kill it, though I wouldn't leave it much longer than a year before changing it...time kills fluids too.

[starwarz]

+1 for not buying off woman drivers, i wouldnt mind a highly serviced but driven hard vehicle. As long as it hasnt seen the rev limiter. but lets be serious all our cars have been redlined in the past but a carnt who redlines it every second week can fark off.

[Booki]

Would you reccomend Syn X 6000/3000 for a RB26?

The 6000 viscosity's are close to what the manual recommends, which is a 7.5w.

Currently running Motul 8100 excess and its heaps pricey and hard to find.

[pipster11]

+1 for not buying off woman drivers, i wouldnt mind a highly serviced but driven hard vehicle. As long as it hasnt seen the rev limiter. but lets be serious all our cars have been redlined in the past but a carnt who redlines it every second week can fark off.

Yes

[bozodos]

out of interest, why aren't there more people running 10w60 Edge? Most RB owners I know are on it, and it has been tested to be be a good oil (Filtergram analysis)

Easy to find too (albeit expensive-ish)

[Moodles2]

10w60 would be perfect at the track. No so much as a daily, hot rating is just too thick.