Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Confused if I should go with Penrite Racing 10 10-40w or Penrite Racing 15 15-50w, Car has 81000kms on the clock with just the first stage mods, intake, front mount, exhaust, 12psi, power fc 211rwkw, thanks.

If your going to track or go for "spirited runs" in the hills i would go 15-50w.

I personally use Nulon 10w-60

No track anytime soon, but she does get quite a few "spirited runs", I thought Penrite was the way to go but just read some more and am completely confused, alot of negative for Penrite in this thread, I have been using Royal Purple 10-40, although oil pressure doesn't hold up with it, always pretty low after a nice run, also with their price hike on their oils I ain't paying $120 for a bottle of oil that I just dump every 5000kms, I'm leaning towards Nulon at the moment.

No track anytime soon, but she does get quite a few "spirited runs", I thought Penrite was the way to go but just read some more and am completely confused, alot of negative for Penrite in this thread, I have been using Royal Purple 10-40, although oil pressure doesn't hold up with it, always pretty low after a nice run, also with their price hike on their oils I ain't paying $120 for a bottle of oil that I just dump every 5000kms, I'm leaning towards Nulon at the moment.

im using royal purple as well but no dramas with oil pressure, u sure its not a flakey oil pressure switch?

Ryco make a platinum filter, has to be changed after 5000 kms tho due to the super filtration. I ran one once. Seemed fine. But put full syn in and run 10,000 km intervals now so doesn't suit me

I changed to penrite 10-40w racing10 about 1000ks ago i'm happy so far good oil. I use a ryco filter not sure if they are the best, only other filter I've brought was a Drift one and it looked horrible. it had strange metal specks in it and on the thread. threw it away and got a ryco.

Edited by dyl33

I genuinely am sorry but could someone please guide me to a link regarding spark plugs? I can't really seem to find anything new its all from 2006-2008 and many differences and I don't want to turn this thread into a spark plug thread aswell, thanks.

Also, just curious as to what drain plug/washers you guys use? Magnetic or OEM. Just Jap is out of stock, and my local Nissan dealer is my last resort. Where else can I source these (OEM plug+washers)? Part No.?

I genuinely am sorry but could someone please guide me to a link regarding spark plugs? I can't really seem to find anything new its all from 2006-2008 and many differences and I don't want to turn this thread into a spark plug thread aswell, thanks.

Lol random post is random. Get BCPR6ES-8 (~$4 each) and replace them every 30,000km.

As for everyone else confused on what oil to get, use this: Penrite PREMIUM 5 5W-60 ;)

Hey man thanks for confirming that, I was leaning towards those plugs plus I'll be replacing them every 5000 kms better than the iridium crap I'm using atm and still having to change them every 10000 kms at $160 for the set, I was just unsure of the gapping, I have yellow jacket coil packs, thanks.

Edited by MrRx7s3

Hey man thanks for confirming that, I was leaning towards those plugs plus I'll be replacing them every 5000 kms better than the iridium crap I'm using atm and still having to change them every 10000 kms at $160 for the set, I was just unsure of the gapping, I have yellow jacket coil packs, thanks.

Haha, Iridium crap. I can't believe I pay $20 a plug for them to be useless...

If you are fouling iridiums or melting them you have other issues, and copper plugs won't fix that, no matter how often you replace them.

There are literally pages of threads on plugs, why here?

As I mentioned before I can't really find much through search for some odd reason, iridium aren't really suited for boosted cars as their tips are thin for one and also at high heat they tend glow and that's what makes them shit themselves and also pre ignite.

My car is runs fine at 40+ psi, perhaps it's the superior fuel I use? They (NGK's) certainly aren't as shit as you make out. Perhaps you are buying them too hot for your application?

Try a google search with skylinesaustralia (then whatever you want to find.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great to hear you are bringing it out of the shed again. Unless you have specific issues I'd just add the wideband, get a good tune and enjoy it. Certainly no point changing coils etc if they are working. If would add fuel pressure and e85 sensor if you are doing a general update but not if it runs OK and you are just getting it back on track. The other thing is smaller, modern twins, -5 are OK for motorsport but pretty laggy and old tech for street use (of course, if performance is the priority a modern single with twin scroll manifold etc is the go but not cheap). The final thing worth considering is switching to an ethrottle if drivability is still an issue, it should make things a lot simpler and smoother
    • Yeah pretty sure they are m4, but best to check, and perhaps use new hardware Also don't over torque them......there was that one time I lost an expensive engine after a workshop overtorqued one of those bolts and it ended up in the oil pump (no, I don't know why they removed the intake mesh either)
    • I might have to shoot them an email. Pity the exchange rate is so bad at the moment. BTW, thanks for posting that table makes interesting reading. 
    • Add these Sensors -Wideband, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Intake air temp Good inspection of ignition system of coils, plugs and loom (12v feed and good ground)- a r35 kit is best bang for buck upgrade. A decent tuner should be able to see any issues with the trigger system- a link has good filtering but a good simple upgrade is the nz wiring bolt in kit. Check and replace all the fuel filters- you would be surprised at intank filter after a few years. Also good to check for any leaks on vac hoses and pipe work as has been said. No need to go overboard and spend big $$$ to enjoy the car. A quality tuner is getting harder to find as anyone with a laptop thinks they are a tuner. A link has great features to check sensor voltages and frequency inputs and easy to see live by pressing f12. The link can do a TPS & RPM fuel/ignition mapping on ITB cars then add a 4D table with MAP and ability to add a 5D to it (can help with economy at cruise with wheel speed vs TPS) Where are you located as that will help narrow down a good tuner ?
    • Reviving an old thread, I reckon my stagea is starting to slip. Car usually gets parked on a hill, narrow driveway so cant go up the driveway smoothly, anyhows, lately first gear feels "sluggish"? Not responsive. Feels like I gotta run the engine more than usual to get off the line...  Any recommendations for transmission servicing in Sydney? Or possibly just an excuse to go manual ?
×
×
  • Create New...