The Goods On Oils

[MrStabby]

yeah that's it, Liqui-Moly, looks like a good product, its nice and light, the engine feels more responsive so will see how it goes.

Did you have a 10W-40 in there before or something heavier? Generally lighter oils should make a tiny bit more power and be a tiny bit more fuel efficient.

[AngryRB]

yeah I had some Castrol edge 10-60w, it has a bad lifter problem so I tried many flushes and oil changes and still there so ill have to replace them,

Also I might add, if anyones using flushes just be careful, cause after using 2 engine flushes, it seems the engine has picked up some noises, more noticeable is piston slap, probably cleaned carbon from the top of the pistons

[Kinks]

Don't judge an oil by its colour. You can't draw any conclusions from colour. For example. oil that looks black after use may just be doing a good job of cleaning the motor's insides.

Agree with caveats. New oil colour doesn't mean anything you're just looking at the colouring they added in the factory in many cases (additive mix and stuff).

Old oil colour is an indicator of how many particulates the oil has managed to trap. In this situation dark brown oil is a good thing, because the oil has taken the contaminants and trapped them in suspension. If an oil is really black then your change interval is too long or you have switched to an oil with more detergents in it and it has dissolved deposits that your last oil was inadequate in clearing away. Honey coloured oil means it is not doing its job well, assuming you are burning petrol. LPG/E85 doesn't produce any soot so oil will still look honey coloured even when it has reached the end of its service life. This is bad because the oil is not lubricating properly even though it looks new.

You can draw conclusions from colour of used oil but only if you know what colour it started out, how long it's been in the engine and what fuel the engine has been burning. Without that information it's useless.

[AngryRB]

that's blows my thinking away, I used to use Mobil 1 0-40w, $100/bottle, that was clear going in and only went to a honey colour after 5000k's on 98,

It did change colour after one dyno session, must of been a long session cause it was very dark colour that time, maybe the car just doesn't get flogged enough for it to change colour

[KiwiRS4T]

Oil testing is cheap. It will tell you if you have been keeping your oil for too long or not without guesswork.

[zak-ery]

Hi guys. I've been using HPR 10 in my daily RB25DET and would like to replace it this time around with probably a Mobile 1 5-50, keen to see how a slightly more premium oil goes. My engine's just about to tick over 200,000km, would it be wise to stick to 10w or can I go for a 5w or even 0w without sacrificing protection? I've been trying to learn from people's experiences on different oil weights in higher k's engines, but info is really mixed overall. I've seen comments saying don't touch lower viscosities if your engine has high k's, and other people saying it's fine. So, what's the go?

[Ben C34]

5w 50 isn't lower than hpr 10

[MrStabby]

That M1 is 17.5 at 100DegC and the Penrite is 19.6 at 100DegC, so yeah the Mobil is a bit thinner. Pretty unlikely you'll feel it with the butt dyno, but if the oils are around the same price, sure, give it a go.

If the engine still runs well, has good oil pressure and doesn't consume oil i'd try a 40 and see how it goes. Keep an eye on the dipstick to see if it starts using. Often the first fill after you change oils is not a good indicator and you should try at least two fills to see how it settles down.

FWIW I run Mobil 1 0W-40 in my cars, but might switch to Nulon to support the local product. Nulon 10W-40 is one of the thicker 40s, so you could try that.

[zak-ery]

Thanks man, that helps!!

[Missileman]

35% off on Penrite oils at Repco, just paid $49.40 for 5L of Racing 5

[gtr jet]

35% off on Penrite oils at Repco, just paid $49.40 for 5L of Racing 5

Thanks for that, I'll be stocking up tonight

[Missileman]

You missed out Saturday and Sunday only.

[gtr jet]

Well there goes that idea.

[booba32]

Just after some advice, i have a 94 r32 gtr as my daily atm, with roughly 100,000kms
What oil do you recommend and what grade should i be leaning towards? cheers.

[Ben C34]

="booba32" post="7519451" timestamp="1429511959"]

Just after some advice, i have a 94 r32 gtr as my daily atm, with roughly 100,000kms

What oil do you recommend and what grade should i be leaning towards? cheers.

This whole thread and you still have no idea?

[Rolls]

Just after some advice, i have a 94 r32 gtr as my daily atm, with roughly 100,000kms

What oil do you recommend and what grade should i be leaning towards? cheers.

After 158 pages of discussion the jury is out. The best course of action is to just not drive your skyline until further discussion can figure out what oil is best to use!

[Kinks]

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls

..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

[Humbla]

Still using nulon 10 40 no lifter noise here. :-)

[niZmO_Man]

Penrite Premium 5W-60

[32GTRB]

I made the switch to liquimoly 10w40 super about 1500kms ago and the oil is already BLACK as. Anyone using the liquimoly stuff and does this mean I should flush it out (prev oil was just a shell semi synth, so thinking the liquimoly is cleaning much better).