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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

For a street engine, anything over 40w is probably just accelerating wear and tear, the thin oil will flow faster and absorb/transfer heat better leading to less wear and quicker up to temperature... :camping:

5-60 is thick when its cold, compare it to a 5-30, the whole number thing is confusing maybe it should of been rated like 30-5 and 60-5??

Even with the best oil though, you probably get oil being washed off the bore under rich running conditions, so I use Lucas UCL which hopefully sprays lube on the cylinder ( top fuel dragsters use it) and I started adding

Zddp additive just to relieve my OCD thinking... but now i'll have to think of a 4th thing just to make it even cause 3 is bothering me now hahaha :glare:

Edited by AngryRB
XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted (edited)

Good thing about penrite is that it has always been high in zinc.

Cold viscosity is an issue with thicker oils but really the choice should be based on the level of protection at maximum stress, ie very high temps and high rpm . Speaking of additives, have seen slick50 used in the past and been impressed with the oil analysis that came back, given a lot of these were on chevys, but still a notable difference was seen in the wear particles.

Edited by XGTRX
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

The numbers on the pack don't mean much.You need to search for the actual viscosity at 40 and 100 degrees and go from there. Its got a name that I've forgotten.

Some would say they are the single most important thing to consider when selecting oil. They specify the range of viscosity, eg a -30 can be 9.3-12.5 and a -40 can be 12.5-16.3 at 100 degC.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

I usually look to see what cars it is recommended for, Mobil says for GTR and is used as factory fill in many cars, part of me doubts whether penrite being Australian would have as much R & D as oils made in say Germany and Japan

kind of like comparing an aussie product like a Falcon or a beer with other products from Germany or Japan,

Edited by AngryRB
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

I usually look to see what cars it is recommended for, Mobil says for GTR and is used as factory fill in many cars, part of me doubts whether penrite being Australian would have as much R & D as oils made in say Germany and Japan

kind of like comparing an aussie product like a Falcon or a beer with other products from Germany or Japan,

Mean while, my GT-R always had Penrite oils in it. My R32 got Mobil 1 5W-50, swapped to Penrite and the engine sounded smoother :P.

BTW my car overheated twice (no oil cooler) at a track day, 10W-40 (Penrite Racing 10) did well then (still dropped ~5L out at next oil change, I put 5L in).

You'll be getting very similar protection regardless of brand (if they're proper synthetic).

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

SAE Viscosity 25W60

Kinematics Viscosity

Visc @ 40oC 270

Visc @ 100oC 23.5

TBN 9.31

Pour Point oC - 27

Flash Point COC oC 210

Does this seem like a good oil

Too thick for an RB with standard bearing tolerances. You'll just be pushing a lot of oil through the filter bypass and relief valves.

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