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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
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Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Things like zinc additives do help add kind of a lubrication effect because of the "softness" of the way the zinc attaches to the engine parts, but this effect is dwarfed by the actual lubrication effect of the oil.

On the dark oil, birds said pretty much everything I thought of lol, he has a habit of that :P, but he's very right that it takes a tiny amount to stain the oil black, and that the oil absorbs the carbon into it's structure, the carbon can't really escape this to build up anywhere. The oil can take an awful lot of carbon before reaching saturation. It's not like once the oil is resting after a change the carbon all falls to the bottom of the container, it stays in the suspension because of the particular physical chemistry effects the designed additives have.

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

This is what Motul France recommends.

that is interesting that they recommend a 5w30.... motul aust recommend 5w40 for RB's

also the sump capacity is wrong. they state 4.5lt when it's 5.5

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Haha Galois was waiting for your backup :P

Trying to find a clear cut answer on how much oil the gearbox takes is just as bad. In the end I just fill up oil until it's within the safe dipstick range, or in the case of gearbox and diff, fill up to the filler hole.

International recommendations = pointless. They are based on a completely different climate. France is cold as f***, it's no surprise they recommend something thin like that. Stick with the domestic arm if you're going to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

International recommendations = pointless. They are based on a completely different climate. France is cold as f***, it's no surprise they recommend something thin like that. Stick with the domestic arm if you're going to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Haha beat me again, I have to be quicker

megzz Collaborator

megzz

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

At least read the first post...

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

Engine will most likely be the same as for everyone else. Likewise for gearbox, except not so much info on that. Go with the recommended penrite syn or castrol if you want cheaper and throw in a bottle of nulon g70 additive (or is it g90, i can't remember, one is the replacement for the other).

No idea on the diff.

There is a transmission and diff oils thread in the drivetrain section but it's not quite as qualified as this oils thread haha

MrRx7s3 Mentor

MrRx7s3

Posted
Posted

I have been reading this threat for a while now and can't figure it out and I'm new to the turbo piston scene, I just got my 2001 r34 GTT basically stock and want to do an oil change but not quite sure on what oil to get? Any suggestions guys? It's got 63000kms on the clock, is 10/30 ok? Street driven but I have a heavy foot haha lol.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

You can't have been reading that long mate, that engine/car has been discussed on pretty much every page of it. Read the previous couple of pages and you'll find it there.

Gareth Collaborator

Gareth

Posted
Posted

good god i must have been reading this thread for about 2 hours. Might as well add my 2 cents i have been using Nulon 15W-50 (street and track performance) for a few oil changes now and it seems to be ok. I was thinking of giving Motul a go and after reading all the people bagging nulon i'm leaning more and more in this direction. I havn't really seen the 15W-50 mentioned everyone seems to use the 10W-40, i was told to use a 15W-50 by the mechanic at Chasers so thats what i did ending up at nulon because it was 15W-50 and 'synthetic' and reasonably priced. Plus its good to support local companies (so i'm told).....after reading all this though my opinion hasn't really changed, when next oil change is due i will check out price of Motul otherwise keep with the Nulon.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are these more specialised mechanics/builders, or your average falcodore servicing guy?

I've had a few mechanics who may be competent at the regular cars but I'd never take something different there.

Edited by Galois
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

good god i must have been reading this thread for about 2 hours. Might as well add my 2 cents i have been using Nulon 15W-50 (street and track performance) for a few oil changes now and it seems to be ok. I was thinking of giving Motul a go and after reading all the people bagging nulon i'm leaning more and more in this direction. I havn't really seen the 15W-50 mentioned everyone seems to use the 10W-40, i was told to use a 15W-50 by the mechanic at Chasers so thats what i did ending up at nulon because it was 15W-50 and 'synthetic' and reasonably priced. Plus its good to support local companies (so i'm told).....after reading all this though my opinion hasn't really changed, when next oil change is due i will check out price of Motul otherwise keep with the Nulon.

10w40 is fine for most r34 gtt's but if yours has low kms you'd probably be right running a 10w30

i use the gulf western syn-x 3000 and have done for a while now, its good, its cheap but it just doesn't last as long as the sougi (motul 300v equivalent) did

but for $33/bottle you can't complain

its a 10w40 btw and i run it in a s2 stagea (rb25 neo with 108,000kms)

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

*then

Then what - just use it. Pretty sure 8100 only comes in 5W-40, I have it in my car now for just over 2,000kms and no problems. Car runs smoothly, oil has turned dark brownish, can't notice any issues. I'd recommend 8100, either one.

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