Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to sound stupid but from the first post should I consider Motul 300v to be the best oil to use? Where can I get some?

I have a R33 RB25DET daily driver so should I be using 10w30?

Thanks in advance!

I dont think 30 is high enough, personally id go for a 10w 40, if the engine is using oil then increase it to 50

300v is a good oil , its a mixed opinion subject, but most high quality synthetic oils are good enough, i prefer to pay more and feel reassured, I found Mobil 1 Gold to be a good one, currently using Royal Purple but might switch back next change..

It's only got 80000kms and doesn't seem to be using much oil at all, also temp needle never over half.

Previous owner said he always ran Motul oil but not sure which one, I'd like to continue using the same one because its a nice drive feel ATM, so 300v is the best choice then?

Also does the oil filter make a huge difference? It's got a light blue one in there now, can't read the brand.

sougi bit hard considering its off the road. i got a btach of mobil1 5w30 for free from work the other day put it in seems to be ok so far but when warm the oil pressure on idle sits at about 20psi on the autometer guage

300V is probably overkill for a daily at stock power, can't get it in 10w30 without mixing anyway. Maybe if it had 300kw+ on the street, or was taken to the track I would spend the premium for 300v.

4100 turbolight (10w40 semi-synth) would be more than suitable if it's a stock rb25det, next step would be 8100 (full-synth) x-max (10w40) or x-cess (5w40), then 300v (full synth double ester)

It's only got 80000kms and doesn't seem to be using much oil at all, also temp needle never over half.

Previous owner said he always ran Motul oil but not sure which one, I'd like to continue using the same one because its a nice drive feel ATM, so 300v is the best choice then?

Also does the oil filter make a huge difference? It's got a light blue one in there now, can't read the brand.

It honestly is a complete waste of money. Get a nissan oil filter and motul 8100 xcess or the full synth sougi one if anyone still has it (probably not).

300v is over $100, if you change it every 5,000 that is $2000 over that time! you could buy a whole new motor and have change for that haha.

Edited by Rolls

It honestly is a complete waste of money. Get a nissan oil filter and motul 8100 xcess or the full synth sougi one if anyone still has it (probably not).

300v is over $100, if you change it every 5,000 that is $2000 over that time! you could buy a whole new motor and have change for that haha.

I think mobil Gold is my choice, i never used oil using that one, now i use a little with royal purple.. so who knows lol

Edited by SliverS2

It honestly is a complete waste of money. Get a nissan oil filter and motul 8100 xcess or the full synth sougi one if anyone still has it (probably not).

300v is over $100, if you change it every 5,000 that is $2000 over that time! you could buy a whole new motor and have change for that haha.

$2000 over 100 000kms

for alot of people who dont daily drive there cars thats like 10yrs +, twice a year change, so $15/month for the best oil, but lets not go into too much detail here ok, lol :whistling:

$2000 over 100 000kms

for alot of people who dont daily drive there cars thats like 10yrs +, twice a year change, so $15/month for the best oil, but lets not go into too much detail here ok, lol :whistling:

You are right, but most people will keep their skylines for what ~5 years before upgrading or moving on yeah? It is just putting it in perspective, the better oil really won't make ANY difference, might as well save your cash yeah?

Its not like it is an 8 second drag car where it might means you get 20,000kms out of the motor instead of 10,000.

You are right, but most people will keep their skylines for what ~5 years before upgrading or moving on yeah? It is just putting it in perspective, the better oil really won't make ANY difference, might as well save your cash yeah?

Its not like it is an 8 second drag car where it might means you get 20,000kms out of the motor instead of 10,000.

yeah thats right,

could really just put shell helix in , probably wont notice the difference over a few years, i just dont like to skimp, but probably end up doing the rb30/25 deal eventually cause i dont wanna sell after spending thousands on it now..:unsure:

yeah thats right,

could really just put shell helix in , probably wont notice the difference over a few years, i just dont like to skimp, but probably end up doing the rb30/25 deal eventually cause i dont wanna sell after spending thousands on it now..:unsure:

Exactly, something I keep saying, 25w50 $5 oil will almost certainly not kill your motor, probably burn a lot of it and might clog the turbo feeds eventually but it won't be instant death.

Might not sound/feel as nice though whistling.gif

Roberto, the guys above are all dead right. I've never read a bad word about motul 8100 or 300v. But you can experiment with oils, see what you like. Just change every 5000km and you're sweet (some oils may last up to 10000km, your call on that).

On filters, I seem to remember buying k&n filters for $22. k&n are a fairly well known brand, the filter is almost certainly going to be better than ryco or nissan, and for a couple of dollars more I thought it was worth it. Also, and MOST importantly, it has a nut on the end so you can use a spanner to take the filter off when it's time for a change :D

Drift do on their filters too, I once picked up 3 drift filters for $20 each from autobarn on sale, was very happy. It's worth keeping a look out for oil and filter sales and stocking up.

Oil change diy, follow this and you'll be sweet.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/10035-my-first-skylines-guide-to-changing-your-oil-and-oil-filter-in-an-r33/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...