Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Google "Fumoto" oil drain valve if you haven't heard of it...

Installed one of these on my R33 a while ago and not only does it make oil changes as easy as flicking a switch (no more sump plugs and washers and oil pouring out over your hands/spanner), it looks kind of cool too :)

Very cheap for what it is!

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

The k&n with the nut, what a brilliant idea! Why don't they all do that...

well considering filter is only meant to be hand tight I would think its pretty pointless just like changing your sump plug washer..dont overtighten things in the first place and you wont have any problems :thumbsup:

defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the advice Rolls, I think I'll go the cheaper option Motul, does seem to make sense when you put it in the new motor perspective.

Now... Where do I get my hands on it? Supercheap doesn't stock Motul right? I'm in Sydney.

Where do I get a Nissan oil filter?

if your after motul 4100 turbolight check out just jap in the traders section... bought 5L for 80 odd bucks including postage which only took a day

Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted

Google "Fumoto" oil drain valve if you haven't heard of it...

Installed one of these on my R33 a while ago and not only does it make oil changes as easy as flicking a switch (no more sump plugs and washers and oil pouring out over your hands/spanner), it looks kind of cool too :)

Very cheap for what it is!

I use one of these,just like you said makes oil changes a breeze. :yes:

Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted

Google "Fumoto" oil drain valve if you haven't heard of it...

Installed one of these on my R33 a while ago and not only does it make oil changes as easy as flicking a switch (no more sump plugs and washers and oil pouring out over your hands/spanner), it looks kind of cool too :)

Very cheap for what it is!

I use one of these,just like you said makes oil changes a breeze. :yes:

Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted

Google "Fumoto" oil drain valve if you haven't heard of it...

Installed one of these on my R33 a while ago and not only does it make oil changes as easy as flicking a switch (no more sump plugs and washers and oil pouring out over your hands/spanner), it looks kind of cool too :)

Very cheap for what it is!

I use one of these,just like you said makes oil changes a breeze. :yes:

Humbla Grand Master

Humbla

Posted
Posted

Google "Fumoto" oil drain valve if you haven't heard of it...

Installed one of these on my R33 a while ago and not only does it make oil changes as easy as flicking a switch (no more sump plugs and washers and oil pouring out over your hands/spanner), it looks kind of cool too :)

Very cheap for what it is!

I use one of these,just like you said makes oil changes a breeze. :yes:

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Google "Fumoto" oil drain valve if you haven't heard of it...

It definitely looks good. How secure is it though birds, I'm guessing you've never had any trouble? Does it feel like the safety latch will protect against a wayward stone flying up under the car?

well considering filter is only meant to be hand tight I would think its pretty pointless just like changing your sump plug washer..dont overtighten things in the first place and you wont have any problems :thumbsup:

I've only ever done filters up hand tight and only ever managed to undo one or two by hand (of a couple of dozen changes at least). Having that leverage/grip makes it so much easier. Though you can always just stick a screw driver through it (never done it myself but have been tempted).

if your after motul 4100 turbolight check out just jap in the traders section... bought 5L for 80 odd bucks including postage which only took a day

Isn't 4100 turbolight usually a fair bit cheaper than that? Seeing as 8100 is usually $75-80?

defari Grand Master

defari

Posted
Posted

It definitely looks good. How secure is it though birds, I'm guessing you've never had any trouble? Does it feel like the safety latch will protect against a wayward stone flying up under the car?

I've only ever done filters up hand tight and only ever managed to undo one or two by hand (of a couple of dozen changes at least). Having that leverage/grip makes it so much easier. Though you can always just stick a screw driver through it (never done it myself but have been tempted).

Isn't 4100 turbolight usually a fair bit cheaper than that? Seeing as 8100 is usually $75-80?

yeah it was like 60 bucks for 5L postage was $20 ish.... lol the screwdriver trick... i thoroughly dont recommend it - some say its ok - for me an oil change usually takes an hour.. it took days to finally wrench my old filter off after breaking just about every tool i had

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

if your after motul 4100 turbolight check out just jap in the traders section... bought 5L for 80 odd bucks including postage which only took a day

Doesn't sound right, 8100 xcess is only $60 when you shop around, 4100 is cheaper again. Worst case 8100 is $80, 4100 should never be that price.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I've only ever done filters up hand tight and only ever managed to undo one or two by hand (of a couple of dozen changes at least). Having that leverage/grip makes it so much easier. Though you can always just stick a screw driver through it (never done it myself but have been tempted).

well I would think that means your doing them up to tight wouldnt u?

Also are you putting them on dry or wet, smear a little oil around the seal and half fill it with oil before you put it on..

Anyway, I guess some people just dont get it, which is why they make filters with little nuts..

i dont see why anyone would use a semi synth 4100 when you can get a full synth 8100 for about the same price .. is it because its called turbolight people think its better for turbos :unsure:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mitchp77
      UniClutch

      By Mitchp77 · Posted

      Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • Murray_Calavera
      NC MX5

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...