The Goods On Oils

[Jimmy_8472]

Hey guys,

I'm not too knowledgeable on oils but i have been using penrite 10-70 in my 98 R34 GT-T, its been good but the oil temps get a bit higher than I'd like with little effort (just normal driving sees temps around 100-105°c quite regularly). I just switched to Nulon 10-40 thinking that the penrite wasn't draining to the sump easily enough but it doesn't seem to have brought the oil temp down.

My water temp is aways good as i upgraded the radiator and added a twin fan set up.

Im just wondering if anyone has any advise the can give me, or if both my choices for oil are wrong.

Maybe its the symptom of another issue?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks guys

-Jimmy

[Moodles2]

Something is causing the heat, maybe timing is off (retarded) causing engine temps to skyrocket passing through the engine or turbo. You might want to confirm what your coolant temp actually is, as it could be heating up the oil via the oil/water exchanger.

The new penrite marketing is alittle wierd, the 10w70 is actually 10w60, admitted for a street driven car the hot rating is completely wrong, you should be using one with a hot rating of 40, 50 max. I highly doubt it's the oil choice that is responsible for the heat problems.

[Jimmy_8472]

Thanks Moodles, I'll throw a timing light on it and check the water temp out and see how i go.

Thanks

[jjman]

how does retarded timing cause extra heat?

and does advanced timing cause lower temps?

[JGTC]

thought to post this as i inquired with Gulf Western regarding their Syn-X range as to what base stocks they use, this was the response i got;

Daniel,

We use Group III in Syn X 3000 and Group III / Group IV in Syn X 6000.

If manufacturing licensed blends in modern API grades, the engine tests are only performed in these base stocks.

Regards

Ben Vicary

Gulf Western Oil

to be claiming Syn-X 3000 is a Motul 8100 equivalent without any justification other than that it feels the same doesn't really tell the whole story about the performance differences of these 2 oils

I've also read reports the the Mobil 1 range is made from a different formulation from a 100% Group IV PAO base, to a Group III / IV blend - which is same as the Syn-X 6000 variant of Gulf Western

although in this day and age, oil's additive packs are just as important as the base-stocks, at the end of the day group IV PAO base stocks are smoother and more expensive to make, Group V being even more so - an oils manufacturer's certifications should also be taken into account

so most things you can grab from a brick-and-mortar shop are made from either straight Group III or blends of Group III / Group IV base stocks (Nulon, Castrol, Mobil, Penrite etc)

the only real Group IV formulated oils i can think of are Motul's 8100 range, Royal Purple and Redline

and Motul 300V and Amsoil being the only real Group V oils

hope this clears up any confusion, not trying to start any wars, just thought to share some info i've come across in my reading

Edited November 6, 2012 by squareznboxez

[Moodles2]

I've actually been wondering if Syn-X 6000 was a true synthetic (100% PAO Group IV stock) myself, for the price I've been having doubt about it, as it would seem too good to be true. But what really matters to me personally is that people have success, at least GW isn't charging us for it, as if it were a true Group IV oil like Nulon tries with their Group III/IV blend "full synthetic"

[JGTC]

group III's are allowed to be marketed as '100% synthetic' in Aus which is why everything you see in stores is labeled as synthetic

obviously if your car is not giving you grief with Gulf Western (normally doesn't until its too late), but to say its comparable to other established group IV oils or even group III/IV blends is a bit silly without any proof of a UOA as different countries invest heavily in formulating additive packs for their oils

[Watchamacallit]

Tried searching within the forums (and some on the internets) without much luck. Has anyone used any of the Liqui Moly products?

Also a question for the guys running 300V - are these being run in street cars? I'm curious on the level of detergents as internet "research" indicates it's more a race oil relying on regular oil changes to prevent build ups and coatings.

[JGTC]

Liqui Moly - they make good products - made in Germany IIRC, more popular with the euro crowd and are thus carry all the euro certifications (VW, BMW, Merc etc) which are among the highest in the world - would place them amongst the likes of Mobil 1, Penrite SIN series, Castrol Edge etc

Motul 300V - has been confirmed by Motul reps as totally suitable for street/road use and change intervals - i've seen UOA reports of it being used for 12,000kms / 12mths including track time without any issues - has been recommended that u stick to under 10,000kms and 9 mths of use to get the most out of it - the short life of this oil is made up with its ability to lubricate very well under extreme temperatures/wear

Edited November 7, 2012 by squareznboxez

[Humbla]

Been using nulon 1040 for years,great stuff,no lifter noise on cold start.

Change oil an filter every 5000 or less,do a lot of ks,330000 plus now.

My ol 33 really is a daily,mainly long distance on highway.

[baysideblue14]

Was looking through Motuls engine oil range and came across Nismo Competition Oil 2212E 15W50.

This is the product description below -

100% synthetic racing engine lubricant developed for supercharged-equipped, high output, high torque engines such as RB26DETT, RB25DET, RB20DET ans SR20DET. With its outstanding ability to avoid oil film damage caused by rapid torque increases, high oil temperature and fuel dilution, NISMO COMPETITION OIL by MOTUL is the best protection you can get for your engine.

http://www.motul.com...f%5Brange%5D=25

Has anyone used this oil ? Would love to hear some feedback.

[Skylineman34]

Just wondering....Does anyone on here use Martini Racing oils?

https://www.facebook.com/MartiniRacingAustralia

[Missileman]

Anyone use this shit before...

http://www.pmlubricants.com.au/shop/item/pm421la5s

[jjman]

meant to note it a while back that iv been using the Castrol Edge Titanium fully synthetic for a bit in my HKS turboed 320rwhp 1993 R33 GTST with 155k km on the clock.

used the 5w-30 over winter (tho perhaps a bit thin for a car of this age?- seems fine tho and its what iv always run) and now the 5w-40 coming into summer (WA).

Seems very good, no oil being used but my car never has anyway.

Got it when it went on special at REPCO so is a decent price for what seems to be a good oil.

Edited November 20, 2012 by jjman

[goingforadds]

On the whole gulf western front, i actually have 4 - 5litre bottles of sugio 5000 10-30w if anyone is interested lol

[France]

thought to post this as i inquired with Gulf Western regarding their Syn-X range as to what base stocks they use, this was the response i got;

Daniel,

We use Group III in Syn X 3000 and Group III / Group IV in Syn X 6000.

If manufacturing licensed blends in modern API grades, the engine tests are only performed in these base stocks.

Regards

Ben Vicary

Gulf Western Oil

to be claiming Syn-X 3000 is a Motul 8100 equivalent without any justification other than that it feels the same doesn't really tell the whole story about the performance differences of these 2 oils

I've also read reports the the Mobil 1 range is made from a different formulation from a 100% Group IV PAO base, to a Group III / IV blend - which is same as the Syn-X 6000 variant of Gulf Western

although in this day and age, oil's additive packs are just as important as the base-stocks, at the end of the day group IV PAO base stocks are smoother and more expensive to make, Group V being even more so - an oils manufacturer's certifications should also be taken into account

so most things you can grab from a brick-and-mortar shop are made from either straight Group III or blends of Group III / Group IV base stocks (Nulon, Castrol, Mobil, Penrite etc)

the only real Group IV formulated oils i can think of are Motul's 8100 range, Royal Purple and Redline

and Motul 300V and Amsoil being the only real Group V oils

hope this clears up any confusion, not trying to start any wars, just thought to share some info i've come across in my reading

Great post mate, very informative. Cheers !

[Booki]

Lots of people seem to be using 10w-40w oils, the manual for the RB26 calls for a 7.5w.

Isn't it better to go the slightly thinner oil at 5w instead of going to 10w?

Is it really much of a difference?

I am thinking really, as long as you change the oil frequently and its of a reputable brand/quality it shouldn't matter too much?

That said, completley different question.

Had coolant contaminating the oil in my RB26 (head gasket).

Head gasket done, but worried their might be a little bit of coolant in my oil, Whats the best way to flush it?

Edited November 26, 2012 by Booki

[TTT]

Was looking through Motuls engine oil range and came across Nismo Competition Oil 2212E 15W50.

This is the product description below -

100% synthetic racing engine lubricant developed for supercharged-equipped, high output, high torque engines such as RB26DETT, RB25DET, RB20DET ans SR20DET. With its outstanding ability to avoid oil film damage caused by rapid torque increases, high oil temperature and fuel dilution, NISMO COMPETITION OIL by MOTUL is the best protection you can get for your engine.

http://www.motul.com...f%5Brange%5D=25

Has anyone used this oil ? Would love to hear some feedback.

Supercharger equipped engines such as *insert Nissan TURBO Charged engine range here* LOL

High Torque engines such as RB20DET?

lol

Edited November 26, 2012 by TTT

[TTT]

Head gasket done, but worried their might be a little bit of coolant in my oil, Whats the best way to flush it?

500ml Auto trans Fluid in to engine oil, bring it up to operating temps, dump oil when hot, replace oil filter and put in new oil.

wear gloves or have towel ready to reduce burning your hand on the oil.

Edited November 26, 2012 by TTT

[Booki]

Can i have some reasons why you recommend Automatic Transmission Fluid to be mixed in with the engine oil?