The Goods On Oils

[MrRx7s3]

I never said anything bad about NGK it's the only brand I'd use to be honest, just saying that iridiums aren't what they all claim them to be, I'm yet to see a set that actually last their 100000 kms as they all state.

Anyways back on topic before the admins kick my bum, I'm gonna try the Penrite Racing 10 and I will post how I go with it and what I think about it compared to Royal Purple, thanks.

Edited January 10, 2014 by MrRx7s3

[Missileman]

Also, just curious as to what drain plug/washers you guys use? Magnetic or OEM. Just Jap is out of stock, and my local Nissan dealer is my last resort. Where else can I source these (OEM plug+washers)? Part No.?

last time I bought washers was from here.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160648840409?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[Booki]

last time I bought washers was from here.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160648840409?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I just go down to my local AB nuts and bolts, bring my sump plug with me and match up a crush washer. Doesn't have to be copper, long as its a crush type.

Copper has a bonus though, as you can anneal it in a pinch.

Up to you if you want to bother for 30 cents each from A and B

[MrFijiGold]

last time I bought washers was from here.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160648840409?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I just go down to my local AB nuts and bolts, bring my sump plug with me and match up a crush washer. Doesn't have to be copper, long as its a crush type.

Copper has a bonus though, as you can anneal it in a pinch.

Up to you if you want to bother for 30 cents each from A and B

Cheers fellas!

[ZRBE]

Okay guys, just wondering if you could shed some light in this. It's most definitely been covered but every answer I find is different.. I don't want to know exactly what to put in but will these be alright?

R32 Gtst 93

This is what I've found so far

Engine oil - 5w40 HPR 100% synthetic OR ?????

2Litres Gearbox (Manual) - Redline shockproof lightweight OR a decent brand 75w90 100% synthetic

1.5Litres Diff - Motul/Shell/Castrol 100% synthetic LSD OR ?????

Thanks in advance guys!

[niZmO_Man]

I'd personally run Premium 5 engine oil (just bought a bottle yesterday for $70, bit hard to find these days, Racing 10 and 15 are everywhere though).

[ZRBE]

I'd personally run Premium 5 engine oil (just bought a bottle yesterday for $70, bit hard to find these days, Racing 10 and 15 are everywhere though).

Yeah I went and bought HPR 15.

So Premium 5 - 5w40 full synthetic?

Those other fluids I mentioned would be fine?

[niZmO_Man]

5W-60

Others should be fine.

[10 4]

5w60 is a bit thick for a street car imho.
I'd stick to 10w40-10w50

[scotty nm35]

May as well run gearbox oil, at least then you can use it for both engine and box.

[ZRBE]

See, so many people recommend different viscosity & weights.. I keep changing my mind....

[Kinks]

See, so many people recommend different viscosity & weights.. I keep changing my mind....

5W40 is the perfect oil for the street. It gives you free-flowing oil when cold, and enough viscosity to handle a bit of load (street/enthusiast driving). You cannot possibly need a 50 or 60 weight oil for the street, they are too thick.

On the track, a 50 or 60 weight will act as cheap insurance for your motor in case you do several hard laps on a modified motor and your oil temps get high. Oil gets thinner when it gets hot, and a thicker oil will maintain lubrication under these adverse conditions. Really you should be running an oil cooler if your oil gets this hot, but it's cheap insurance.

[Missileman]

I've been running 15w-50 Penrite HPR Diesel in my (street driven) RB20 all summer, but will probably switch the 10W-40 in the winter.

Have absolutely no complaints about the 15W-50, slight bump in pressure and the motor runs very quiet, it revs and spools the same as the lighter oils.

[ZRBE]

I'm just gonna put in this Penrite HPR 15 5w40 full synthetic..

Also herd Redline shockproof makes a noisey diff a little quieter?

[niZmO_Man]

5w60 is a bit thick for a street car imho.

I'd stick to 10w40-10w50

On a 200,000+km engine?

I used SIN 5 for ~one year on my GT-R with no issues, engine became slightly quieter compared to 10W-50 (HPR10 one service only, ~9,000km). I service my cars every 10,000km, and rather have the GT-R running 50 (hot) oil than a 40 (even though Racing 10 worked fine on track). It's more for my peace of mind knowing an old motor is running a slightly thicker oil when temps are hitting 100°C , although there may not be much difference between 50 and 60. 40 I feel is a bit too thin, especially for summer.

[niZmO_Man]

I'm just gonna put in this Penrite HPR 15 5w40 full synthetic..

Also herd Redline shockproof makes a noisey diff a little quieter?

To be honest, I doubt you'll notice anything different between HPR5 and Premium 5 or Racing 10.

FYI HPR15 is 15W60, which is what I use in my R31

You can buy an additive which apparently quietens the diff, think it's made by Nulon, can't say for sure.

[ZRBE]

To be honest, I doubt you'll notice anything different between HPR5 and Premium 5 or Racing 10.

FYI HPR15 is 15W60, which is what I use in my R31

You can buy an additive which apparently quietens the diff, think it's made by Nulon, can't say for sure.

Yeah, my mistake.. This is the oil I purchased.. (Not off the site, mind you..)

[twinturbzgtt]

That new nulon syn is not bad

[10 4]

Well... most RBs have done over 200kms anyway.. Those accurate odos

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

ill doing changeover from royal purple 10w-40 to penrite racing 15w-50 this wknd, will report back,

easier to source and can be bought on sale unlike royal purple if it all goes according to plan

im dumping oil every 5k or so but do drive it hard