Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

From my experience: I didn't watch the water and oil temps on my car (too busy driving it around SMSP south), but both water and oil temps were at the danger end. I watched fatz's car (has a fancy Haltech display) go hot, the oil temps got pretty high (120+°C), and the water temps rose to beyond 95°C.

My car is standard engine (including the sad little radiator). If you have separated the coolant thingy at the oil filter block then maybe it's less of an issue. Or, less of an issue if your coolant system is up to scratch!

Better to have a working oil temp gauge though.

FordyR31 Mentor

FordyR31

Posted
Posted

I think an oil cooler and temp guage would be an idea as I plan to do more track days. The coolant temp, on stock guage went up towards the end of the day when I went to Marulan a couple of years back but since then have upgraded the radiator to a PWR 50 something mm radiator and have some decent Nulon coolant. Hoping the higher speeds of SMP can help with temps also. Sorry to be a little off topic.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Thought that may have been the case. I run an oil cooler so I doubt my temps would ever get too high.

Perhaps you are better off not knowing. :P

Mine hit 150 degree oil temps at the last Sandown trackday, in 30 degree weather, and I use a 30 row oil cooler with a 14 inch thermo running flat out.

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

Perhaps you are better off not knowing. :P

Mine hit 150 degree oil temps at the last Sandown trackday, in 30 degree weather, and I use a 30 row oil cooler with a 14 inch thermo running flat out.

Haha shit. I'd say that'd be about the limit you'd want to reach on a quality oil wouldn't it?

How many laps would it generally take you to hit that temp Scotty?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

3-4 laps. lol. It would be much better at keeping the temps under control if the ambient temperature was lower.

I think the alloy block and piston squirter design helps transfer more heat into the oil, and it does run massive oil pressure... I guess it just needs a larger/secondary cooler if I want to track it again.

  • Like 1
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thought that may have been the case. I run an oil cooler so I doubt my temps would ever get too high.

running a 30 row oil cooler

water stays at 85-90 while oil get above 105 and rises... will be running a 2nd oil cooler on the passenger side

drift not grip though

Edited by Dan_J
  • Like 1
R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted

Any of you guys used Motul 8100 X-Max 10W-40?

I've been looking long and hard for ACEA rating/specifications on this oil however they only seem to supply API ratings. On the American Motul site i believe they list the 0W-40 (or similar) as having ACEA A3/B4 but cannot find any more information on the 10W-40 variant.

IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
Posted

hey all, im a complete novice when it comes to cars and oils, ive done some research and looked through this thread a bit but still cant fine any exact info on what oils i should buy, mainly because i have a 34 GT-Four (NA 4WD model) which theres not heaps of info on and im still not sure exactly what my driveline parts are

so far im thinking,

Engine: Not Sure engine is a RB25DE NEO

Diffs: Castrol LSX90 (although a guy a supercheap talked me into getting Nulon 80W-90)

Gearbox: Nulon smooth shift 75w-85

Transfer case: Nissan Matic D

ATTESSA: Nissan power steering fluid 'special' (the only fluid Nissan recommends, NOT ATF).

i think borth my diffs are LSD but not sure and im unsure if my gearbox is the same a RB20/25DET or 33 GTR

also not sure how much oil i need,

engine 4-5L?

diffs 2L each?

gearbox 4L?

transfer case no idea?

​any help would be much appreciated

Jazzadub Enthusiast

Jazzadub

Posted
Posted

hey all, im a complete novice when it comes to cars and oils, ive done some research and looked through this thread a bit but still cant fine any exact info on what oils i should buy, mainly because i have a 34 GT-Four (NA 4WD model) which theres not heaps of info on and im still not sure exactly what my driveline parts are

so far im thinking,

Engine: Not Sure engine is a RB25DE NEO

Diffs: Castrol LSX90 (although a guy a supercheap talked me into getting Nulon 80W-90)

Gearbox: Nulon smooth shift 75w-85

Transfer case: Nissan Matic D

ATTESSA: Nissan power steering fluid 'special' (the only fluid Nissan recommends, NOT ATF).

i think borth my diffs are LSD but not sure and im unsure if my gearbox is the same a RB20/25DET or 33 GTR

also not sure how much oil i need,

engine 4-5L?

diffs 2L each?

gearbox 4L?

transfer case no idea?

​any help would be much appreciated

Engine - 5L of semi-synthetic 10W-40 will be fine

Gearbox - any good 75w-90 gearbox oil that says its good for synchros will do

Diffs - I think the front is 1L and the rear is 1.5 to 2L? Any good gearbox oil will do, unless its LSD in which case you need something suitable for the LSD type

Transfer case - any ATF will do the trick, not sure on quantity

ATTESA - as far as I know it just needs to be incompressible and provide a bit of lubrication so any kind of P/S fluid or ATF should be fine.

IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
Posted

thanks for the help, any idea where i can get the proper ATTESA fluid from Nissan, ive had a search and cant find any hits only people saying its rather expensive. would a Nissan dealer stock it?

IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
Posted

i just found this on some other threads, might help some other people,

For fluids the manual recommends
Transfer case (page CH-59) - 1.8 litres of Nissanmatic fluid D [approx. 1.8 litres]
Manual transmission (page CH-23) - Nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 [approx 4.1 lites]
Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre]
Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres]

and also

Have a document from Nissan NZ, which came from Mr.K.Shindo of Nissan Japan.

It outlines his thoughts on fluids that should not be replaced by aftermarket products.

1. Transfer case fluid
Nissan Matic D is strongly requested because high torque is applied to transfer unit.

2.. Transfer case (ATTESA E-TS-PRO Actuator) : It is not acceptable to use DEXRON III fluid.
> Only Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special use is required.

Today I received the technical information from our design department.

1. The difference between the DEXRON III and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special

The viscosity characteristic of Power Steering Fluid Special is lower than that of ATF DEXRON III and the resistance to wear is also improved. Each viscosity is the same level at 100 deg.C and the former viscosity is designed to have the lower value for under 100 deg.C than the latter viscosity.

This characteristic is aimed to rotate an oil pump located in ATTESA PRO
actuator easily at the extremely low temperature (Around -30 deg.C or -40 deg.C)

2. What will happen if a customer puts DEXRON II or DEXRON III into the ATTESA PRO actuator reservoir in the trunk ?

The 4WD performance will be largely decreased at the low temperature because the viscosity value of DEXRON II or III is extremely high compared to that of Power Steering Fluid Special ;

As the rising characteristic of 4WD torque transfer becomes worse, it takes the longer time to transfer the driving torque to the front wheels. There is a possibility that the 4WD cannot be achieved in the worst case.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I would use Dex3 no worries. If it means the 4wd might not work as good when cold who cares,you shouldn't thrash when cold anyway, and Importsonly is driving an NA so its not like it puts hardly any power through to the front ever.

Edited by superben
IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
Posted

yeaha thats true, but im pretty sure Nissan recommends the Matic D for the Atessa and the power steering as well so it might be worth just getting the one 6l bottle of that since i found one for $70

  • 2 months later...
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

can anyone recommend some oil or additive to quiet down a falcon with piston slap, has this to some degree 100% of the time, I am using fully synthetic Valvoline 10w 40 with 1L of Lucus oil stabiliser,

wondering if I should go that thick penrite 20w 70 or not.

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • Butters
      Compressor flow comparison table

      By Butters · Posted

      I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...