The Goods On Oils

[QRI05E]

Well i got it for a TOO good price cause its my mates shop hehe... and the RRP is $89 from Autobarn... i saw them for $75 at Peps auto... im sure any Autobarn will price match... call around... still a 100 times better then any Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline! RP are real good... one of the best!

Mobil 1 GOLD 0W40 ($80) isnt too bad but is a group IV.... where RP is group V ($75)

Cheers

Edited September 15, 2006 by QRI05E

[Paradizzle]

Well i got it for a TOO good price cause its my mates shop hehe... and the RRP is $89 from Autobarn... i saw them for $75 at Peps auto... im sure any Autobarn will price match... call around... still a 100 times better then any Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline! RP are real good... one of the best!

Mobil 1 GOLD 0W40 ($80) isnt too bad but is a group IV.... where RP is group V ($75)

Cheers

I think i previously read something about someone recomending the RP and changing the oil every 10,000kms, or should it still be done every 5k?

[QRI05E]

I personally wouldn't... even though they recommend it... oil would be oxidized/burnt (black) by 5000 - 6000kms... especially in a hard driven turbo charged engine... I'll be changing my oil every 5000kms with Royal Purple... 10W40

If it seems bit pricey then just get any decent synthetic oil such as Pennzoil or Pernrite SIN and change every 5000kms or 3 months... I personally think its more important to service your car regularly with decent oil rather then using the best oil and leaving it for 10,000kms... but for me, the price difference wasnt that much between the Castrol or Mobil 1 and the RP...

Considering that any work shop will charge between $99 - $150 for a service (oil/filter) and probably use some cheap dino oil... i would rather spend $75 - $80 on the best synthetic oil (Royal Purple) and $5 for a cooper oil filter and bout 15min of DIY in the garage

Cheers

Edited September 15, 2006 by QRI05E

[Busky2k]

Oil being black doesnt mean its burnt or oxidised at all. Some oils naturally turn dark with heat. Others go dark because of soot loading. If it truely is oxidised by 5,000km then you have a crappy oil to begin with.

I believe RP is not entirely Group V, but a mix of Group I, IV & V. Group V doesnt mean anything anyway, its a classification for anything that doesn't fit into the other categories. You could class honey as Group V if you want.

still a 100 times better then any Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline! RP are real good... one of the best!

Who said its 100x better? The salesman who sold you the stuff? Wheres your evidence? lol

Edited September 15, 2006 by Busky2k

[QRI05E]

not the salesman... but every one i have asked... every performance mechanic and tuner have recommended RP over Mobil 1 and other high end oils... even the wholesale rep who i spoke to today that sells Redline, RP and Motul to Autobarn and Repco... recommended the RP over the other oils he sells...

If you read back, even i was confused to which oil to buy... and i was about to get Mobil 1... but then after a few phone calls and few emails.. i have been advised differently...

Please done get me wrong... Mobil 1 Gold is a great oil but for its price... you better get RP which is race bread and proven... as i said before... its horses for courses... what works for one engine may not work for another...

Cheers

Edited September 15, 2006 by QRI05E

[Trex101]

Ok guys, I emailed Royal Purple, regarding the grade/quality/group of their oils and they stated that they use a group V base and the rest is their Synerlec technology which has proven itself over and over again... even my mate's auto shop oil supplier who sells Motul, Red Line and RP said that RP was the best oil he has ever sold and used on his R33 GTR ~290aw/kw! Horses for courses I guess...

Today i picked up a 5L jug of Royal Purple 10W40 from Autobarn along with a Cooper oil filter... and hopfully ill get a chance this week to change the oil and will post the results...

Cheers,

Sarkis

No, RP is mostly group IV couple with mineral additives carrier fluid (possibly group I for total additives solubility). Alot of ppl in BITOG has criticize RP for it's lack of shear stability but UOA results always prove very well under high load and stress situation.

It's good oil but not 100x better than the rest i tell you.

[gozirra]

Well, after trawling through this thread I settled on a couple of bottles of Motul 8100 5w-40.

See how things go.

[Paradizzle]

Well after reading the last few pages i was going to go for the RP, to much of a hassle getting any by Monday as the stockists are out of the way big time. So i may settle for Mobil 1, dont know what weight to get though!!

[Busky2k]

Well at the *end of the day* we are splitting hairs because our engines would happily run on pretty much any synthetic oil with no problems. I am not doubting that RP is a good oil, I'd give it a go but there is alot of hype with oils unfortunately.

Paradizzle, I'd give the 10W30 in the M1 a go if you can find it. Or the 0W40, whatever is cheaper/easier.

[QRI05E]

I totaly agree Busky! as long as you run a decent synthetic oil with regular change (5000kms or every 3 months) your engine will love you for it!

I will post up my experiance with RP when i get a chance to change my oil hopfully this week..

Cheers

[Beer Baron]

you better get RP which is race bread and proven.

mmm race bread. personaly I prefer white bread with olive oil, not synthetic. lol

[T04GTR]

penrite syn 5 is the goods.

if your abit poor hpr10. 215k old 32gtr 315rwkw

loves it. thats all ive evr used in all my engines and ive never spun a bearing. PENRITE FTW.

[T04GTR]

Its worth noting that the v8 supercar team i worked for used caltex havoline 20w50 thats right 15 dollar oil!!

but it was changed every meeting.

[Cubes]

Its worth noting that the v8 supercar team i worked for used caltex havoline 20w50 thats right 15 dollar oil!!

but it was changed every meeting.

Were they a winning or loosing team?

[Busky2k]

Maybe because the V8 supercar team rebuilds their motors every race meet, so as long as it survives the race, thats all that matters.

[hosay]

During my break at uni today I managed to take a quick trip down to Peps and Super Cheap... This is what I found (all are in 5L jugs):

Mobil 1 5W50 - $69

Mobil 1 GOLD 10W30 - $79

Royal Purple 10W40 (at Peps) - $75

Royal Purple 5W30 (at Peps) - $72

Castrol EDGE 0W40 - $70

Castrol EDGE 5W30 - $49

Valvoline SynPower 5W40 - $45

Wouldn't the choice go to Royal Purple for the high range? and the Valvoline Synpower for the low range?

What you think guys? or am i going around in circles chasing my tail? lol

I wouldn't mind spending $75 for the Royal Purple, but considering i change my Oil/Filter every 5000kms I think the Valvoline or Castrol for $45 - $50 would be a good choice...

Cheers,

Sarkis

[hosay]

Hi Sarkis,

Are you aware of a Peps outlet in melb, vic? was searching on net & I think peps only presence is in NSW. If u know of one here, kindly refer. Thank you.

[QRI05E]

Hi Hosay, unfortunately there are no Pep's outlets in melb... NSW only... you can buy Royal Purple from the following suppliers in melb:

Eagle Auto Spares

92 South Gippsland Hwy

DANDENONG

03 9793 5544

Sanmateo Performance Systems

19-21 Ninth Street

MILDURA

03 5023 7559

Regards,

Sarkis

[msnismo]

Read through this thread and have seen conflicting stories - I just did my first oil change and apparantly the car was previously running Mobil 1 and was as quiet as a baby... did an oil change with 10w40 full synthetic (Nulon) and now my lifters are noisy! They were noisy straight away after it came off fast idle.

Should I go back to Mobil 1 and try 15w50? or perhaps this oil is shite and maybe try another 10w40?

Car has done 100,000 - R33 94 - also has an oil cooler and a smaller filter than normal (442).

Cheers,

Anna

[Trex101]

Read through this thread and have seen conflicting stories - I just did my first oil change and apparantly the car was previously running Mobil 1 and was as quiet as a baby... did an oil change with 10w40 full synthetic (Nulon) and now my lifters are noisy! They were noisy straight away after it came off fast idle.

Should I go back to Mobil 1 and try 15w50? or perhaps this oil is shite and maybe try another 10w40?

Car has done 100,000 - R33 94 - also has an oil cooler and a smaller filter than normal (442).

Cheers,

Anna

Try the Mobil 1 again but 15w50 imo is maybe too thick. Try the M1 0w40, good stuffs.