The Goods On Oils

[Ben C34]

Duh

[muzziak]

What's everyone's verdict on penrite 10tenths 10w-40 ? I've used it for the past few oil changes and have no complaints as of yet, go for about $70 for 5L

[mr skidz]

car go quicker with motul?

oh shit yea lol

[MrRx7s3]

What's everyone's verdict on penrite 10tenths 10w-40 ? I've used it for the past few oil changes and have no complaints as of yet, go for about $70 for 5L

I've been using it for the past 4-5 oil changes, I'm happy with it... imo closest thing to royal purple without paying the royal purple price, I drop my oil every 5000kms so I just found it stupid to spend $130 on a bottle of oil that I drop very often and it's my daily.

[Missileman]

What's everyone's verdict on penrite 10tenths 10w-40 ? I've used it for the past few oil changes and have no complaints as of yet, go for about $70 for 5L

I've had no issues with this, it's good stuff but for the price I prefer the Racing 5 it has the most zinc of any penrite oil.

[MrRx7s3]

Whats the difference between Penrite Racing 10 and hpr 10? Apart from the hpr 10 being 10 50 and racing 10 being 10 40, both are full synthetic? Although hpr is almost half the price, has anyone used both and which do you find better.

I'm due for an oil change and currently I'm using the racing 10 but saw the hpr 10 at half the price but they seem the same but I don't know a whole lot about the specifics.

[GTofuS-T]

Check their website there's heaps of detailed info, the main stand out (aside from SAE grade) seems to be this:

"Racing 10 is a premium, 100% , PAO & Ester full synthetic SAE 10W-40, SHEAR FREE modern engine oil."

I've used hpr 10 without issue on the street.

I'm using Nulon 10W-40 full synthetic at the moment (practically stock car), 2 track days on same oil: SMSP South (heavy cornering) & North (high speed & cornering) with no issue.

[MrRx7s3]

Yeah there's my problem with oils too much engineering to understand lol... I thought fully synthetic is fully synthetic, pao ester etc looses me what's better whats not what does what etc lol... I'm not running big power and it's a spirited daily although I like to take care of her.

[Kinks]

Group III oils are mineral oil based but they are so highly processed that manufacturers call them synthetic based on the performance of the oil compared with traditional mineral oils.

Group IV oils are manufactured synthetically (keywords PAO and Ester)

For 99% of cars it makes zero difference. Group III is fine.

[mr skidz]

Anyone have current information on what oils are class 4 and 5 these days as they tend to jump from class to class sometimes without telling anyone.

[MrStabby]

Anyone have current information on what oils are class 4 and 5 these days as they tend to jump from class to class sometimes without telling anyone.

AFAIK the info in the first post is still generally correct, but;

- oils use a mix of different base stocks (eg, minerals used to carry additives). The first post info is for the highest percent basestock

- the mix will change over time

- you need to judge an oil based on its basestock + additive mix

So, I wouldn't worry too much about if the basestock has been tweaked a bit. If you're using 300V or Mobil 1 or some other top tier oil it should be as good as ever.

[Alexro]

I'm coming up to my change soon and wanted to get a few opinions

Car is an s15 with stock sr20 bottom end. Makes 250kw on 98, it's not a daily so it generally gets a beating when it's taken out.

I tried ten tenths 10/40 and I found the pressure was not stable at all with temp changes. I would thin it out after 5-6 laps at sandown, every session, as well as on mountain runs which put me off. It also caused premature wear of my vct sprocket and had it fail in the matter of months. So I binned the oil after a few friends had issues with the ten tenths also.

Added morose extended and baffled sump with new oil - castrol edge 10/60

it's been superb in terms of pressure consistency and have no issues with it what so ever (street and track)

I now have an oil cooler that I want to add on but I'm thinking whether to switch to a lower viscosity oil as the overall temps will drop once it's on.

Trust thermostatic 13 row cooler -10 lines

Current oil capacity is 6L ... Plus 0.5-1 more for the cooler and filter relocation.

Running oil temps without cooler is 70-80deg , and have only been able to see 95deg on hard mountain runs / hill climb events

Haven't done a proper track day with castrol edge yet

Wondering if there is a benefit in going with a lower viscosity oil , and which one?

And if the oil cooler addition will reduce overal pressure in the system? And how that will affect oil choice

Thanks !

Edited October 29, 2015 by Alexro

[niZmO_Man]

I overheated my GT-R twice at a track day with Racing 10 and it was fine. Once the oil temp gauge hit 130°C I pulled in haha.

What oil temps were you getting?

[Alexro]

I didn't have an oil temp gauge at that stage, I was going off my lol pressure gauge

0 bar blips with clutch in, 0.5-1bar at idle. Wouldn't climb over 3bar on load.

Happened every session and had to either do cool down laps all the time or come in to pits until it was cool enough to maintain decent pressure.

Was just really annoying

[Hadouken]

I think you expected to much from a 40 weight. Now you run 60 weight and oil cooler which should have been done from day dot for track (maybe 50 instead).

I dare say you try castrol 40 weight and you will have the same if not more issues.

[mr skidz]

Id do good oil cooler setup and try quality 40 weight first.

if temperatures remain stable with the 40 you shouldn't experience oil pressure dropping so I'd do that,

if you are experiencing high oil temps again move to a 50 weight.

Id never use a 60 weight unnecessary especially if you have already an oil cooler setup.

too heavier oil for such a high revving motor.

You want oil VOLUME in a motor not EXCESSIVE pressure.

Edited October 30, 2015 by mr skidz

[CEF33Y]

Any motul guru's here?

Have one issue with my RB20, (ok maybe a few issues, not sure if they are linked)

Mainly daily driving, with a few drift days thrown in. 240rwkw, No oil cooler.

I've run motul oils since day dot with my RB20. I used to run turbolight 10-40w, Motor was quiet, oil pressure stayed pretty consistant, never exceeded 5k intervals.

Then the name changed to HiTech 10-40w. Salesman assured me it was the same.

Pretty much within the 5k on the HItech, it developed a lifter tick, only on start-up. But its inconsistent.

Some mornings it will start with no noise, other times will have a pretty loud lifter noise, only for 1-2 seconds.

Its been like this for a while, never overly bothered me, but thinking about trying a different oil. Unsure of what way to go with the weights.

Is it too thin and draining out of the lifters?

Or too thick and not getting there quick enough?

Or not an oil issue (but lifter itself) due to the inconsistency?

TL/DR

Running 10-40 motul hitech, what oil/weights to try to quieten up a nosiy lifter on startup only?

[AngryRB]

the old lifter issue, i found a light oil best for cold lifter noises, on an LS1 the 0-30 made it quiet cold but noise came when hot, when i put 10-60 in, the noise was there cold but went away hot... still not 100% what the go is with lifters but thats what happened, now i pissed the LS1 off and i got neo head for the RB, in the end the hydraulic lifters are a pain in the ass...

In old engines i think the oil pressure could be the issue, if the lifters are worn or the lifters bore then it bleeds away.. so the oil used wont fix that.. id try a very thin oil and a thick oil, then id start stripping shit down to find whats doing..

Edited November 11, 2015 by AngryRB

[Fatlip]

Funny thing the last posts are about the lifters haha. I started to hear the same ticking yesterday. My RB25DET series 1 has 10w40 in it and about 150k kilometers on it. Ticking is pretty quiet at cold but increases when it gets up to operating temp. I'm about to drop the oil and change filters and blabla. What do you guys recommend? I used to own Hondas before my Stagea and they burn oil like hell so never had to get in depth to oils hahaha.

[Missileman]

Funny thing the last posts are about the lifters haha. I started to hear the same ticking yesterday. My RB25DET series 1 has 10w40 in it and about 150k kilometers on it. Ticking is pretty quiet at cold but increases when it gets up to operating temp. I'm about to drop the oil and change filters and blabla. What do you guys recommend? I used to own Hondas before my Stagea and they burn oil like hell so never had to get in depth to oils hahaha.

its designed for deisel but there aint anything wrong with using it in petrol motors, has a good zinc content and more cleaners than most oils...

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_fuel_type=3&id_products=7