Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

Paradizzle Grand Master

Paradizzle

Posted
Posted

Ok guys, i have to buy some oil tommorrow... Decided yo get Mobil 1, as everything else is confusing and most people seem to say its good and are using it. I would get Royal Purple but only place that stocks it is an hour drive and i cbf..

Now which place is best to get it? Supercheap, Autobarn, Repco or Bursons?

Any help would be great!... oh and i think ill get 10w40...

Thanks!!

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Mobil 1 doesn't come in 10W40. Only 0W40. Which is a good thing. I know what you should do, get your phone book out and ring around for prices but it'd be around $80-90 for a bottle. Can't tell you who would be cheapest. I haven't seen anything but the 5W50 at SuperShit and nor would I support those bastards anyway lol.

ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
Posted

A lot of people seem to recommend Motul 300v Chrono (10W40), but does anyone use (or has used) Motul 300v Competition (15W50)???

The salesman at my local Autobarn was suggesting that the 300v Competition was probably better suited to my car (approx 285rwkw R33 GTST) than the 300v Chrono...

As my understanding of oils is a little basic, I'm curious to understand if there is any difference between the oils (other than the temp ratings) and whether or not there's any benefit to getting the Competition over the Chrono (or vice versa)...

Some help to point me in the right direction would great :happy:

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
A lot of people seem to recommend Motul 300v Chrono (10W40), but does anyone use (or has used) Motul 300v Competition (15W50)???

The salesman at my local Autobarn was suggesting that the 300v Competition was probably better suited to my car (approx 285rwkw R33 GTST) than the 300v Chrono...

As my understanding of oils is a little basic, I'm curious to understand if there is any difference between the oils (other than the temp ratings) and whether or not there's any benefit to getting the Competition over the Chrono (or vice versa)...

Some help to point me in the right direction would great :happy:

Basically your oil temp will determine your engine viscosity choice, if you are frequently over 110'c then the 50wt oil will be more suitable then the 40wt. If you are running below avg 90'c oil temp then a 30wt oil would work just as fine.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
A lot of people seem to recommend Motul 300v Chrono (10W40), but does anyone use (or has used) Motul 300v Competition (15W50)???

The salesman at my local Autobarn was suggesting that the 300v Competition was probably better suited to my car (approx 285rwkw R33 GTST) than the 300v Chrono...

As my understanding of oils is a little basic, I'm curious to understand if there is any difference between the oils (other than the temp ratings) and whether or not there's any benefit to getting the Competition over the Chrono (or vice versa)...

Some help to point me in the right direction would great :happy:

I know of a bloke that went from 10w40 to 15w50. He was making up around 300rwkw on low 20's boost from memory. After running it with the 10w40 on the dyno the tuner recommended the 15w50. The motor was a tad quieter with the thicker oil, apparently it had a strange knock as it would rev down off the dyno and the thicker oil fixed it. :S

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
I know of a bloke that went from 10w40 to 15w50. He was making up around 300rwkw on low 20's boost from memory. After running it with the 10w40 on the dyno the tuner recommended the 15w50. The motor was a tad quieter with the thicker oil, apparently it had a strange knock as it would rev down off the dyno and the thicker oil fixed it. :S

Yes, thicker oil do have increase sound damping properties but that's beside the point. The important consideration will still be the engine oil temp in considering type of viscosity to be used.

SilverECR33 Veteran

SilverECR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

ahh kool just did all my oils

I was going to go with the Motal 400 turbolight but decided to go with what i have been previously using which is a full synthetic. did diff and trans also :D noticed big differences with trans and diff using this stuff below. btw mine is a manual 5spd.

Engine: Nulon 10-40W full synth 'Hi-tech Fast flowing' @ 50$ for 5 Litres (australian owned and made apparently)

Trans: Motul Gear300 @ 16$ per litre

Diff: Motul FF competition @ 42$ per litre

dunno wat was in the trans and diff before i just did the refil, but can feel the difference :)

Edited by silverbulletR33
cogs Experienced

cogs

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I need some help choosing an engine oil for my R32 GTST.

What would you guys recommend? It's an Rb20det with a few mods like turbo-back exhaust, FMIC, POD filter, FPR, bigger fuel pump, custom VG30 turbo running 14psi.

The majority of my driving is short distance (work is less than 5 minutes away and most places I travel regularly are around 10 minutes drive).

What's the new castrol edge stuff like? What would be better 0W40 or 5W30?

My mate runs Mobil 1 in his R33 GTST and another mate runs Penrite HPR 15 (a bit cheaper) in his WRX. Neither have had any problems. I know alot of people use Mobil 1 in their RB's but what about this penrite stuff? Not sure what my mate runs in his R32 GTS4 (will have to ask him).

My car doesnt have any engine problems that I'm aware of.

Previous owner said he used Valvoline oil filters, should I continue using these or get genuine Nissan? I think he said he ran Valvoline XLD oil but not sure?

Thanks.

Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

I did an oil change not long ago using Castrol Edge 5W-30 at a cost of $40ish for the oil and $11 for genuine nissan oil filter. No drama's at all. In the past I used the equivilent Formula R before the marketing hype and it was fine then as well.

Want I would like to know is that since summer is fast approaching and likihood of 35 - 40+ degree days. What oil rating/viscosity would I be looking at? Is 5W30 fine or would I need something thinner or thicker, Im thinking thinner here...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • AdiR34
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...