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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
And how come my oil temp nevers goes above 70?

You mean after warmup and >20min driving, you got oil temp of 70'c? A normal engine after warmup need about 80-90'c oil temp to effectively burn off combustion by product/water that get's in the oil.

Anyway where did you live where temp drop to -40'c?

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Ive got a HR31 with the older redtop motor, its got apparantly 100,000 on it but its probably more like 150, anyway it blows no smoke and has even compression all over the board so it's in good condition. Pretty much stock standard but it does get quite hot in summer (sits on half temp - should get a proper guage though)

Anyway I was thinking something fully synth 10-40 or should I go something thicker like 50w for summer?

ToF Experienced

ToF

Posted
Posted
Wow, they do have alot of brands there. How much is their Redline selling?

No idea but judging from their Delvac pricing it wont be cheap. :)

Oh well, I guess I'll have to fork out the money, unless there is something better than Delvac for 70 bucks? :P

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
No idea but judging from their Delvac pricing it wont be cheap. :dry:

Oh well, I guess I'll have to fork out the money, unless there is something better than Delvac for 70 bucks? :sleep:

Do check with Harold from performancelub.com they do supply Mobil, Royal Purple & some other stuffs.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted

hey trex and busky2k

I'm getting confused with the diff oil...read stuff about it and thought i was cool...

Castrol Syntrans and Syntrax..75W90 I think they are spec'd at. I have a stock s1 r33. I used Syntrax as it was GL5 rated oil...wondering if I should have used the Syntrans..I get confused with them..Its not for LSDs and I have no idea if I have one or not lol I guess I should know.

KJ

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Castrol Syntrax 75W90 - GL4/5 suitable for both diffs and gearboxes.

Castrol Syntrans 75W85 - GL4 for gearboxes only but tends to give better shifting than Syntrax for gearboxes specifying GL4 fluids such as our nissans.

So you chose the right thing!

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
Castrol Syntrax 75W90 - GL4/5 suitable for both diffs and gearboxes.

Castrol Syntrans 75W85 - GL4 for gearboxes only but tends to give better shifting than Syntrax for gearboxes specifying GL4 fluids such as our nissans.

So you chose the right thing!

haha thanks man...it didn't make any noises...so I thought I was cool. Just in the Castrol spec sheet it says not for LSDs...but the stock R33 diff is a viscious LSD and aparently this is still cool...but I'm still not sure about that.

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

When an oil is spec'd for LSD use, they mean its appropriately friction modified for clutch LSDs. Most of our LSDs are viscous coupling (VLSD) which means they use their own internal fluid for the 'lockup'. So for VLSDs it doesn't matter if the oil is specifically rated for LSD use or not - just so long as its API GL5 rated. So you are safe with Syntrax.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
When an oil is spec'd for LSD use, they mean its appropriately friction modified for clutch LSDs. Most of our LSDs are viscous coupling (VLSD) which means they use their own internal fluid for the 'lockup'. So for VLSDs it doesn't matter if the oil is specifically rated for LSD use or not - just so long as its API GL5 rated. So you are safe with Syntrax.

I looked for hours and couldn't find the info. Bascially I had to reasearch VSLDs and how they work and found out exactly what you said...then got confused again! haha thanks for that mate.

neshgtr Community Regular

neshgtr

Posted
Posted

hey guys im due for my first oil change since i bought my car.. engine has recently been rebuilt and has been run-in.. was wondering wot oil to use.. have read/heard good things bout redline and royal purple.. shud i also change my transmission oil as well.. if so which oil?

also my friend had tried putting a short shifter into my car a month ago and the plastic thing right at the end of the gearstick came lose and got lost inside.. does this affect anything as i was told it will get munched up.. shud trans oil change be done to try n flush out any bits?

i mainly use the car on weekends and short trips but no track work etc.. also i was interested in getting a tomei baffle kit.. how does it affect the oil or change things for the better??

cheers

nesh

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Can someone please confirm if 20/60 is too thick for my r33? When i give it a bit the oil pressure rises to nearly 8. should i drop the oil and put in some thinner oil?

If all else being equal, oil pressure is inversely proportionate to flow rate, the higher the pressure the lower the flow. You are starving your engine of precious oil during startup and before oil temp is up to operation temp.

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