Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys sorry if its already been asked but i really dont want to read 20+ pages!

My engine is getting tuned in a few weeks(rb25 conversion into a 32) and im using the standard rb20box for the moment. Im looking at changing gearbox oils as my clutch is getting installed later in the week so i thought now is a good a time as any. Its currently abit notchy from 3rd to 4th but i dont get any crunching in high gears etc. Ive read redline can be bad if your gearbox isnt on its way (ie bad syncros) but i dont really know if a 'notchy' gearbox is considered on its way :wave:. Im basically looking at any ways to give my box a easier life. Any info on the matter would be appreciated.

Cheers!

Hi guys sorry if its already been asked but i really dont want to read 20+ pages!

My engine is getting tuned in a few weeks(rb25 conversion into a 32) and im using the standard rb20box for the moment. Im looking at changing gearbox oils as my clutch is getting installed later in the week so i thought now is a good a time as any. Its currently abit notchy from 3rd to 4th but i dont get any crunching in high gears etc. Ive read redline can be bad if your gearbox isnt on its way (ie bad syncros) but i dont really know if a 'notchy' gearbox is considered on its way :laugh:. Im basically looking at any ways to give my box a easier life. Any info on the matter would be appreciated.

Cheers!

Go for the Redline MT90 75w90 gear oil instead of the light weight shockproof. It will improved your notchy shifting.

Go for the Redline MT90 75w90 gear oil instead of the light weight shockproof. It will improved your notchy shifting.

Hey mate

German Castrol...where can I get some you reckon?

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

I will get another kit and test the R33 which has been running 10W40 Redline for about 7000kms...I'm thinking of switching to the 5W30 in the R33 also...or even the GC if I could get it in both...depending on the price.

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

Did you send in a VOA?

Si generally indicates poor air filtration.

What else made you think it was a poor uoa apart from the high levels of silicon?

Hey mate

German Castrol...where can I get some you reckon?

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

I will get another kit and test the R33 which has been running 10W40 Redline for about 7000kms...I'm thinking of switching to the 5W30 in the R33 also...or even the GC if I could get it in both...depending on the price.

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

Can be found in Ebay.

Castrol Syntec 0w30

Did you send in a VOA?

Si generally indicates poor air filtration.

What else made you think it was a poor uoa apart from the high levels of silicon?

Si and all metals in my UOA are pretty high comparatively. Redline will give higher wear numbers at first due to cleaning values. So its only the first and hard to tell. But if u looked at it at a glance, it would be no great. I'm doing more soon on the line and and sample in the FTO.

Can be found in Ebay.

Castrol Syntec 0w30

thanks..

I have been ordering from Harold @ (0414369 926) Performancelub.com. Might be the same guy as the products are the same and the price is also...I didn't realise he sold Castrol.. !

I have decided to stick with reldine for the moment, do some more tests and see what happens.

thanks..

I have been ordering from Harold @ (0414369 926) Performancelub.com. Might be the same guy as the products are the same and the price is also...I didn't realise he sold Castrol.. !

I have decided to stick with reldine for the moment, do some more tests and see what happens.

I have seen your UOA and doubt you will have an accurate reading unless after 3 OCI, ester base Redline has an aggressive cleaning abilities and it will show higher wear reading from the metal it displace. I would say save your UOA test till at less 30k later.

I have seen your UOA and doubt you will have an accurate reading unless after 3 OCI, ester base Redline has an aggressive cleaning abilities and it will show higher wear reading from the metal it displace. I would say save your UOA test till at less 30k later.

I was going to do another one just cos I'm intrested to see if the numbers come out similar.

Apart form that I've got a new batch of the 5W30 from Harold above and putting that in soon.

Next is the r33. I have been using 10W40 redline but I have noticed a bit of oil usage, not to much. SO I asked the boys if they reckon a 30wt would help say seal the rings a bit better. So I'm giving that a go also...

Hey guys just looking at doing an oil change for my R34 GTT. I bought some Motul 300v 5W30 is that going to be okay? At the moment the max temps down here are around the high 20s/low 30s but avgs around mid 20s. The car currently has elf 10w/50 in it.

Also is 4L enough or do I need to go buy another 2L container? (was the only size they had)

Hey guys just looking at doing an oil change for my R34 GTT. I bought some Motul 300v 5W30 is that going to be okay? At the moment the max temps down here are around the high 20s/low 30s but avgs around mid 20s. The car currently has elf 10w/50 in it.

Also is 4L enough or do I need to go buy another 2L container? (was the only size they had)

5w30 is good but do check your AFR if it's running rich or lean as too rich a AFR will increase fuel dilution in the oil thus making it thinner than 30wt.

5w30 is good but do check your AFR if it's running rich or lean as too rich a AFR will increase fuel dilution in the oil thus making it thinner than 30wt.

Hey thanks mate, I actually read around a bit and ended up taking 300v back and getting 5L of the Motul turbolite 10w40. Was a lot cheaper than the 4L of 300v and as you mentioned I didn't want to run the risk of it getting 'too' thin.

Anyway all went well and the car feels so much nicer to drive :P

Hey thanks mate, I actually read around a bit and ended up taking 300v back and getting 5L of the Motul turbolite 10w40. Was a lot cheaper than the 4L of 300v and as you mentioned I didn't want to run the risk of it getting 'too' thin.

Anyway all went well and the car feels so much nicer to drive :no:

Motul turbolite 10w40 is just a Semi-Syn oil, I would recommend at least a fully synthetic for turbo cleanliness and high temp protection. A wide spread 10w40 type semi-syn is not really a good idea for ring cleanliness i would think. Choose Mobil 0w40 or Delvac 5w40, whichever is cheaper. those are good oil at reasonable prices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...