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Depend on how's your shifting now, if it feel notchy and difficult in engaging, then the MTL(70w80) would work better then thicker 75w90 oil as the thinner oil will squeeze out faster from the syncro thus promoting quick positive shift. RL lightweight shockproof & 75w90 gear oil do already contain LSD additives, the amount of additional LSD additives to add will depends on the level of LSD noise(how tight or losses is the LSD).

There's no real answer to your question, it's more of an educated guess with trial and error thing. I would suggest you add a quart of 75w90 to your front with remaining MTL and see what happens.

Ok sure, the gearbox is not notchy or difficult to engage from memory.

The front and rear LSD's appear to be very tight, the front clunks on gear change, does that mean I use a little more additive in the front?

And for very tight LSD's is Redline Lightweight shockproof OR 75w90 make more sense? (both diff's seem to be tight)

I have the quarts of MTL for the gearbox for now, I will see how that goes after the change I guess :D

Edit: Oil change complete now. The rear diff is the one whining and clunking, maybe the front was making some noise before but its silent after adding Redline Lightweight shockproof. It had a clear oil in it when it was drained (clear/white sort of colour).

Haven't done the gearbox but engine in running smoothly on Castrol 5w40, hasn't gotten over 85 degrees yet but hasn't been driven too hard. Still very noisy lifters but thats probably normal.

Also did transfer case with some Penrite fully synthetic dextron 3, front diff seems to engage a bit more often now (not just on when turning and accelerating).

Thanks for the reply.

drifter_r33 read the damn thread, its got plenty of information of what to use.

5w50 doesn't sound like the best oil for a GTR, Mobil1 0w40 is said to be good.

So is German Castrol, 5w40 and 0w30, RoyalPurple, Redline (expensive but very good) and Motul 300V(?) (also expensive).

4.75 litres is the amount for an oil change including a filter, I don't know how much your oil cooler would need.

Hi guys, i need your help.

i have got an r33 gtst, and i have been useing OWS 5W50 for the last 6 years, but now its getting harder to get this oil, so below are my 2 options.

1. 8100 ESTER E-TECH 0W-40

2. Mobil 1 0w40

Now here is the confusing part, reading this thread people seem to think that Mobile 1 is a better oil than 8100, but this is the new one with ester, where as Mobil 1 is not an ester based oil.

To make things more harder Mobil 1 meets Mercedes MB 229.5 standards where as 8100 only meets Mercedes MB 229.3, don't know how much difference this makes but i thought i might as well throw it in here.

Car's a 96 model with around 220rwkw running an hks 2530 on 17psi and is tunned to run very rich, its got about 90,000ks on it.

Edited by MUFASA
hi Guys,

I have a Penrite SIN10 10W-70 that was given to me. now will this be fine for a R34GT (RB25DE) ?

its free so im thinking of using it but not really sure if its fine to use.

Thanks

It's too thick, buy another bottle of Penrite 5w30 and mix 60/40 to thin it down.

Ok, another question about my rear diff. The rear diff locks on most corners and the whine/clunk is getting looked at in the next fortnight (finally!).

However, it would appear that the rear diff is likely aftermarket and I don't think stock diff's lock on corners as much as this diff does.

Does the recommendation for the Redline 75w90 oil in the rear diff still correct? Or should I be using something else?

  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone know what group base oil Royal Purple use? i have been reading their site but its seems more like marketing then technology? the API rating is V bad.

I have always been a penrite man but after reading this thread and many others it seems the sin 5 is too thick for the RB26, I have purchased RP 10-40 but am starting to think i should have just stuck with a proven performer i.e M1

Cheers

Damien.

Does anyone know what group base oil Royal Purple use? i have been reading their site but its seems more like marketing then technology? the API rating is V bad.

I have always been a penrite man but after reading this thread and many others it seems the sin 5 is too thick for the RB26, I have purchased RP 10-40 but am starting to think i should have just stuck with a proven performer i.e M1

Cheers

Damien.

they done a bearing test on this oil less marks than the rest off them its was in the magazine i had a while back if i findit ill post the shit they talked about ive been using this oil for over 6months not a problem with it its reall smooth and you do notice the difference dont be a girl try it i have and havent gone back to penrite and that.

i knoe its not the answer you looking for but i just hadto :banana:

Edited by R334door(s2)
  • 2 weeks later...

guys i changed my engine oil to motul power 4100 15w/50 and its been running a hell lot quiet as compared to the last fuel change with elf but the problem is now i noticed that the fuel pressure is very very low. The normal value should be at a value between 3 and 4 right?Now at cold weather it drops until 1 and i'm really worried at this. Sometimes when i warm up the car and it idles for 3 minutes then die. Can someone suggest me if its the engine oil that is causing the problem?(i have no problem prior changing it to motul)

guys i changed my engine oil to motul power 4100 15w/50 and its been running a hell lot quiet as compared to the last fuel change with elf but the problem is now i noticed that the fuel pressure is very very low. The normal value should be at a value between 3 and 4 right?Now at cold weather it drops until 1 and i'm really worried at this. Sometimes when i warm up the car and it idles for 3 minutes then die. Can someone suggest me if its the engine oil that is causing the problem?(i have no problem prior changing it to motul)

righto... :) is anyone as confused as me about what this guy is talking about with fuel pressure?! You obviously meant oil pressure.

your oil you are using is probably a bit thick on cold nissan quote a 7.5W/30 i think from memory, so you are well above this. Try somehting like a 5W/40 or possibly a 10W/50 from what ive tried they are both fine and do the job well. Make sure they are fully synthetic aswell.

Whether its the problem to do with the oil...i doubt it but changing your oil wouldnt hurt you in this case. Dont go by teh stock oil pressure guage either, they are prone to irregular/incorrect readings depending on the age of the car/sensor. Chances are you've got a vaccum leak somewhere, or something along those lines and this is causing your idling cold start issue. Try using the Search feature and look for idling issues and im sure you will find something that will help you out.

Have fun

David

they done a bearing test on this oil less marks than the rest off them its was in the magazine i had a while back if i findit ill post the shit they talked about ive been using this oil for over 6months not a problem with it its reall smooth and you do notice the difference dont be a girl try it i have and havent gone back to penrite and that.

i knoe its not the answer you looking for but i just hadto :worship:

and so many times in this thread have we explained why that test was total bs. so forget about it.

However RP tends to be Group V and has had good results although I have been using redline for the past 2-3 years.

UNless your car sees the track dont go over a 40wt.

Hey Guys,

Im currently using mobil 1 5w-50w fully synthetic. The previous owner used Shell oils, and i noticed there were some lifter noises coming from the engine, however after putting mobile 1 into the engine it quitened down a bit. I was told that it will take a few oil changes with mobil 1 fully syn for it to show a huge improvement...

Ive been reading through these pages on oils and it seems that as long as you use fully syn and change the oils frequently the actual "Brand" name per say, is not really a huge factor.

Same here ! Pennzoil Full Synthetic 5W-50 for the last year or two and no problems. I Use the OEM filters.

I think as long as you don't forget the OEM spec, and work around them, you can't go wrong far wrong.

NISSAN recommend their oil which is 7.5W-30 from memory with 3,000km oil change intervals for a GT-R in Australian conditions. So, anything that has a cold weight of 7.5W or better ( eg 5W or 0W ) and hot weight of 30W or better ( 40W or 50W ) should do the trick.

But like someone has already said, having ENOUGH oil is THE most important thing.

same used the pennzoil fully synth 5-50w for a change and had a good run with it....couldnt find it next time around so swithched to mobil 1..and much the same feel.only the mobil has been slightly better in the long run with same response, so will use it or move up to motul oil .........

The 300V of course. :sorcerer:

wait a minite the 300v is a 15-50w oil..pretty thick for performance only?.....would you reccomend that for standard street use?

i have used used mobil 1 5-50w and found it unimpressive .

nexy will be 0-40 w mobil1 synth for sure...will probably stick with it

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