Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Jesus Christ! Just spent half a day reading through all 42 pages of this thread.

I have an R34 GTR and wanted to know what engine oil to use at the next service. It has been getting Mobil 1, but I know there are better ones out there for a premium which I am willing to pay for.

The odometer says 50k but I am not too sure about that - engine is mechanically sound though. It's mainly used for spirited street driving and commuting. My oil temp hardly goes over 90 deg. I am not sure whether it runs rich or not, but I do get some popping noises out the exhaust occasionally - is this mis-firing??. Mods include dump/front pipes, catback exhaust, AFC boost controller at 1.1 max boost, some cam gearing. I live in Melbourne so temp of 0-40deg year round.

I was tryiing to decide between the following:

Motul 300V Chrono 10W-40 (seems to be the most popular motul oil on SAU)

Motul 300V Power 5W-40

Motul 300V Power Racing 5W-30

All three of these have the "double ester technology".

Also on the redline site it recommends 10W-40 for GTRs. I have read redline is good but not as good as the 300V??

Also that the smaller the range the better as there are less additives. As my oil temp usually doesn't go near 100 deg, would then the 5W-30 be better than the others? I am a bit worried that it might be too light a viscosity? But if I'm running rich it should be ok??

Thanks very much for advice. Greatly appreciated.

Edited by Phatboy
  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

wouldn't bother with a 10w from what you're describing. Don't be worried about an 0w or 5w oil

0w30 or 5w30

Redline is better than Motul

there's a group of Group 4 and 5 based oils that is mentioned a lot in this thread, and also a website where to get the best ones.

halomansion Contributor

halomansion

Posted
Posted

ye well i have a r33 series 2 gst....and yes its time soon for another oil and filter change.the oil you put in your car is important.and at the end of the day you get what you pay for.and guess what they never seem to throw out the good stuff on specials.like mobile1 0-40 w or motul 0-40w or the less liked catrol edge 0-40w all the good stuff in oils and about say 80 to 90 bucks for 5litres.

yes the mobil1 is good am using it now.lasts longer, i found and doesnt soot up and thin as early.i have mobile1 5-50w and will switch to the mobil1 0-40w for increased performance and fuel economy.so there you go i am even spending for a 0-40w performance iol in my r33 which will only be mainly for cruising and street use.

slidetaker Apprentice

slidetaker

Posted
Posted
Also on the redline site it recommends 10W-40 for GTRs. I have read redline is good but not as good as the 300V??

Also that the smaller the range the better as there are less additives. As my oil temp usually doesn't go near 100 deg, would then the 5W-30 be better than the others? I am a bit worried that it might be too light a viscosity? But if I'm running rich it should be ok??

I believe the Redline and Motul that you've mentioned are more towards performance oils. Don't know which Redline is better than which Motul. You will need to get into the specs for each of them to compare.

Smaller the viscosity range usually has less Viscosity Modifier in it. Meaning it will hold its viscosity more percise and longer than a wider range oil.

5W30 is a bit thin if manufacturer recommends 10W40.

If price is not a concern, I will recommend running Mobil1 0W40 with good oil filter for 5000km OCI for good cold start-up protection with the turbo.

Hope this helps.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

5w30 is fine for street use, especially for a R34 GTR. If there is considerable track work, you MAY think about upping it a bit...

Redline = Group 5 based oil

Motul = Group 4 based oil

(and this is in regards to the types of products we would select from these companies)

generally speaking then, Redline is better than Motul

Russco Proficient

Russco

Posted
Posted
5w30 is fine for street use, especially for a R34 GTR. If there is considerable track work, you MAY think about upping it a bit...

Redline = Group 5 based oil

Motul = Group 4 based oil

(and this is in regards to the types of products we would select from these companies)

generally speaking then, Redline is better than Motul

Correct me if I'm wrong but the Motul 300V range is a Group 5 base oil, the 8100 range is a blend of group 4 and 5.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Yeah i was pretty sure the 300V range is a group 5 oil. Personally i have never used the redline engine oils, we sell both motul and redline at work but i always use the Motuls for engine oil and redline for gearbox. What information makes you think that the top of the range redline is better then the 300V? I've had training done by the Motul reps through Link Performance and i'm pretty sure the 300V range is pretty much one of the best oils you can buy in Australia.

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
Posted

Thanks for everyone's advice. Yeah, looked around but didn't find any definitive info that redline engine oil >> motul 300V due to higher group oil.

Both seem good, but I think as PM-R33 said, Motul engine oils are popular as one of the best you can buy whereas redline is renowned for gearbox lubrication.

Think I will stick with the tried and true Motul 300V.... 5W-30 will do the trick I think.

slidetaker Apprentice

slidetaker

Posted
Posted
I've had training done by the Motul reps through Link Performance and i'm pretty sure the 300V range is pretty much one of the best oils you can buy in Australia.

It is good to have someone who works in the industry and has contact to Motul reps.

It would be worthwhile to get some information on the blends of PAO/Easter and formulating composition on their 300V series of engine oil.

It is interesting to see how the Motul AU website has some much descriptive information on base stock oil with no numerical specs whereas ExxonMobil has little to say about base stock oil but quite detail record of numerical specs.

slidetaker Apprentice

slidetaker

Posted
Posted (edited)
anyone run 10w40 Nulon fully synthetic? any feedback on this oil?

I've got R32gtst with about 130,xxxkms, what do u reckon about those viscoscity?

should i run thinner in winter?

Haven't heard anything about Nulon. It will be good to hear from someone who tried.

Viscosity should use whatever is recommended in the driver manual, it aims for average driver in average weather condition.

You should really start to consider a thicker oil only if it is starting to burn oil because of worn out internal engine parts.

Running a 5W or 0W will help with winter cold-startup.

Hope this helps.

Edited by slidetaker
NoFX_Hardcore Proficient

NoFX_Hardcore

Posted
Posted

What do you guys reckon I should use for my r32 gtr... Car has been rebuilt with forgies less than 25000kms ago so is still a fairly new engine. I'm thinking of using royal purple but was wondering whether i should go 5w30 or 10w40? I wanted something like 5w40??? Thought 30 might be too thin...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...