The Goods On Oils

[nisskid]

I just wanted to post up about Oil Flushes, now ive never bothered with them, the only reason i did one was because the bloke at autobarn threw it in when he said he couldnt match another shops price on the Oil i was after. btw only reason i went to autobarn was because every other distributer was out of Motul Power 15w50 which i run in my old thrashed RB20 which sees a lot of track work, my reccomendation for engines with a few more K's which see a bit more hard work.

anyway, so ive had my oil pressure gauge for a few years now, and with 5w30 castrol edge (bad choice), 10w40 turbolight and 15w50 power the pressure has never really changed a great deal. anyway, so ive only recently changed to Power from turbolight, in fact the oil i was about to drain was my first batch of Power. so at the same time i did this change i did oil filter and this flush (Nulon i think). so same oil, same brand filter (Ryco) only difference was the flush.

10psi gain in oil pressure on idle, no f**king shit lol. it used to sit just over 1bar, now it sits just under 2bar. dont ask me how, i dunno, it was completely unexpected.

[boiracer]

just a quick heads up for those wanting a K&N filter the HP-2008 is the part number to look for

[boiracer]

i should read more before posting stuff...pulled this off the same forum page...aparently the HP-2009 has a bipass valve, which as long as oil is clean shouldnt make a difference

Quote, originally posted by Geno750 »

Bumping this as an FYI to not use this filter. There is no built in bypass valve on this one. Use HP-2009, it's bypass valve and anti drain back are the same as stock. You could also use the HP-3001 filter if you have enough space for it to fit (its huge).

This is the first I've heard of this...I'll have to check to see which one I used for my swap when I get home.

Quote, originally posted by RussianKid »

what happens if i use hp-2008???

just did an oil change tonight k&n with mobil1 full syn

OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE

If you wait too long to change the oil and oil filter, there is a danger that the oil filter might become plugged. To prevent a plugged oil filter from starving the engine for lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a "bypass valve." When the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But when the bypass valve is open, no filtration occurs.

The bypass valve also opens when a cold engine is first started. Cold oil can be fairly thick and may not pass through the filter element very easily. So the bypass valve opens and allows the oil to go around the filter until the oil warms up and flows more easily. During this time, any contaminants that are in the crankcase may be sucked up through the oil pump and bypass the filter, causing increased engine wear and possibly engine damage. Once the oil gets warm and the bypass valve closes, oil flows through the filter and normal filtration resumes.

why arent things simple

[buckets]

hey guys

was just wondering what sorta oil i should run

car is a 96 R33 gts25t series 2, odometer says only 110,000kms and interior and engine bay looks like its done that many kms.

was looking in motul 300v chrono, alot of people seem to like this oil.

where abouts would i be able to get it from? (rang Repco, they told me 110bux for 4L and 60 for 2L, anywhere cheaper?)

good oil for my car? (want a fully syntetic)

also... where can i source a k&n oil filter from?

any real difference between a k&n and a ryco?

Edited July 2, 2009 by buckets

[boiracer]

hey guys

was just wondering what sorta oil i should run

car is a 96 R33 gts25t series 2, odometer says only 110,000kms and interior and engine bay looks like its done that many kms.

was looking in motul 300v chrono, alot of people seem to like this oil.

where abouts would i be able to get it from? (rang Repco, they told me 110bux for 4L and 60 for 2L, anywhere cheaper?)

good oil for my car? (want a fully syntetic)

also... where can i source a k&n oil filter from?

any real difference between a k&n and a ryco?

motul turbolight 4100 is good, just pored some of this into mine, loves it, and its only about 60-70 for 5 liters.

i got my K&N off ebay for $11.95, the HP-2008 IS the one your after (ebay it was advertised as a Z145A equivelent)

as for the difference between K&N and a ryco......no idea yet

[G0DZLR]

are you saying that the K&N one has the bypass valve and the ryco doesnt? iv only ever user rycos on mine, but after hearing that...hmmm

FYI, still using castrol edge 10W60 in mine, now with lucas oil stabiliser

[br3ndan]

royal purple 10 - 40.

very nice oil

[buckets]

royal purple 10 - 40.

very nice oil

hey put royal purple in

car runs soo much better now.

however i just need to find whats eating my fuel!!!!

ALL HELP THANKED FOR!!!

HELP ME AND MY FUEL!!!!!

[boiracer]

are you saying that the K&N one has the bypass valve and the ryco doesnt? iv only ever user rycos on mine, but after hearing that...hmmm

FYI, still using castrol edge 10W60 in mine, now with lucas oil stabiliser

not sure if the ryco does or doesnt, the article only covered the K&N filters, im just gonna go for basic filters after this K&N, im sure the difference is minimal, and no one else seems to have to many troubles with em.

[180athid]

Yes it is, it is a GRADE III oil, like 75% of oils you get off the shelf.

i DON'T know where your getting your info from but 4100 is a GROUP 4 OIL POA

in API terms A FULLY SYNTHETIC happy thrashing

Edited July 7, 2009 by 180athid

[Mayuri Krab]

Get my car serviced by the local mechanical every 5000km using standard semi-synthetic oil.

Being working fine for over a year using this type of oil.

Oil pressure stays identical & behaves identically to when I 1st got the car. Oil pressure is at 6 when engine is cold, once it warms up it idles at 2 & then will stay between 2 to 6 depending on my driving.

[BASHO]

Just went through my first (newby to Skyline) oil change nonsense and am pleased to say after a bad start with Valvolene Engine Armour 10x30 semi syn which lasted 25k's before I deep 6'd it .

(I'm sure it's good oil, it's just not for my R34, the idle at normal running temp was under 2 (1.75) and had a problem getting over 4 even when pushed a bit , errk.)

That'll teach me to buy shit on special.

I've settled on Nulon 10x40 full syn the 'fast flowing' tag on the bottle got me I've used Nulon 15x50 before in a WRX and it worked well so I was half way sold anyway , but I gotta tell ya the 'fast flowing' sealed the deal.

The engine sounds realy comfortable now and the oil pressure is slightly above logbook specs right the way through.The Nulon 10x40 was $52 for 5ltrs, 6Ltr could be had for not much more I just didn't want more bits hanging around in the shed.

Nissan OE filters are only $10ea.

Now heres a question, the graduations on the OE oil pressure are in KG/sq cm and 1 KG/sq cm = 14.22psi therefore one could reasonably assume that the 3KG/sq cms specified as normal at 2000rpm would = 52.66psi . and 4.6KG/sq cms specified as normal at 6000rpm would =65.412psi

now this seem somewhat low to me so is the OE gauge accurate ? or are Japanese KG/sq cms a different animal ??

[SS8_Gohan]

how people tell if an oil is working pretty well is kinda beyond me (without doing a UOA). No one is going to be able to tell what's going on inside the engine (unless something catastrophic is happening).

It's pretty simple, just get a REAL synthetic (99.9% sure Nulon would not make one) and don't go too thick (unless racing a lot) and change at about ~10k or 6 months IF you've bought a top quality oil.

People seem to be judging how good some semi-syn oils are on the fact their cars are still working - just because a car is running doesn't mean the oil is any good.

Just use REAL full synths.

[BASHO]

how people tell if an oil is working pretty well is kinda beyond me (without doing a UOA). No one is going to be able to tell what's going on inside the engine (unless something catastrophic is happening).

It's pretty simple, just get a REAL synthetic (99.9% sure Nulon would not make one) and don't go too thick (unless racing a lot) and change at about ~10k or 6 months IF you've bought a top quality oil.

People seem to be judging how good some semi-syn oils are on the fact their cars are still working - just because a car is running doesn't mean the oil is any good.

Just use REAL full synths.

I quite agree there is no way to tell if the oil is working correctly so in the end it comes down to experiance, a good ear, common sense and certain amount of luck.(unfortunately)

Oils that are generaly available now weren't even on the shelf 11 years ago when my R34 was made and as I couldn't get any specs from Nissan and having read a zillion posts decided to go with what semed to be a good punt, I was wrong, the oil pressure was out from spec and the engine sounded harsh , so out the stuff came quick smart.

In went with the Nulon for the reasons I posted before and the results were as I posted before , is it the right stuff ? truthfully I wouldn't know.

As for "just get a REAL synthetic (99.9% sure Nulon would not make one)" I actualy went to the shed and checked the bottle and plastered hard and fast in several places including the specification copy is 100% SYNTHETIC , there is nothing I could find on the packageing that indicates it is anything otherwise.

A case for trade practices ??

I wonder what the results may have been with the Nissan 7.5-30 whatever it is , Nissan declined to tell me whether it was dino ,synth or blend.

[TALBO]

just because a car is running doesn't mean the oil is any good.

Just use REAL full synths.

So true. LOL!

[BASHO]

"Just use REAL full synths."

So true. LOL!

As a point of idle interest who make commercialy available "REAL full synths" apart from the much disputed Mobil ?

[SS8_Gohan]

www.performancelub.com

anything you ever wanted in terms of lubricants for you car can be found there (well, except for powersteering/coolant)

Everything he sells are Group IV, IV/V or V

I'm using Royal Purple 5w30, but will switch to Amsoil next. Apparently a slightly better oil (Group IV/V blend) but little price difference.

Castrol Edge would market their oil as synthetic, as would the Shell one (Helix?), Havoline something-a-rather, but they're all Group III.

I'd have to have a look at a bottle, to see if they listed anything that would show it's a true synthetic. Is this a new oil for them? Maybe they do make true synths now...

The points pretty much mute anyway because of somewhere like performancelub.com - can get the best stuff for the prices of some of the fake synths

[BASHO]

www.performancelub.com

I'd have to have a look at a bottle, to see if they listed anything that would show it's a true synthetic. Is this a new oil for them? Maybe they do make true synths now...

Nulon put the full synthetic product into the market about two / two and a half years ago, they had a limited range of viscositys and did a shortish in store ad campaign in conjunction with performance mags full page add drivers , there selling points were as I remember 100% synthetic, high quality and low price , this was particularly relevant back then as anything synthetic was arm and leg country , as am aside they were probably at least partialy responsible in goading the oil companys into producing the confusing plethora of oddities we now have, at first they only offered full synthetic later a semi (that I am aware of that is) I notice that now there is dino as well and an expanded range of viscositys.

There is doubtless lots more that was done with the product launch these are just the bits that I am actualy aware of , the fully synthetic has always been strongly promoted as 100% fully synthetic and I think someone would have pulled Nulons ears by now if they were telling porkys,they also claim a 32% less friction than other quality synthetic engine oils.

There is absolutely nothing on the bottle that would indicate that the contents are anything other than 100% synthetic oil.

Phew !

[PM-R33]

i DON'T know where your getting your info from but 4100 is a GROUP 4 OIL POA

in API terms A FULLY SYNTHETIC happy thrashing

Hmm fair enough. I'm pretty sure the Motul rep we used to have said 4100 was a group III. I also got told Motul don't make anything below a group III, yet on that list it lists a group II?

[mr_scary]

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke20.html

That clearly states that 4100 is a semi-synth