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The Goods On Oils


PHaT MR30

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Hey guys,

We all know that Motul 300V is grade V and its one of the "best" but at over $120 per oil change, I just cant afford it.

So, I've since used Nulon Fast Flow 10W-40... and it seemed okay.

I've been reading this shit so much and could never make up my mind... there was just too much hearsay.

So I took the liberty to call some oil manufacturers to get some facts:

Nulon - all their fast flow oils are group III and they dont make any group IV's, so its not a "real" synthetic

Castrol Edge 5W30 is a group III, the 0W40 is the only group IV in their range

So Nulon 10W40 was $68 for 5L (group III)

Castrol Edge 0W40 $68 for 5L also (group IV)

I think i know which one i'll be buying... anyways, just my oppinion, backed up by some facts from the manufactuer

:) Frak my ole boots , I've been using Nulon 10x40 Hi Tech Fast Flow since I bought the car /for the last 7 months/3 oil changes on the asumption that the FULLY SYNTHETIC printed on the bottle was the truth--and it's bullshit--this oil is a mineral oil derivative--I just phoned Nu-frakin-lon and confirmed this , no frakin wonder it ages so quickly.

IT'S DINO ALL THE WAY and it wont be going in my frakin engine again--and niether will any other friken nu-ferkin-lon product. :(

SO THERE !

:(

Now the never ending question--What oil--?

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gee after reading most of this everyone is going to want to kill me haha, iv been runing Penrite HPR10 in my 1996 r33 gtst sinice i bought it 3 years ago, and have been changeing it every 10'000km's

not ever 5k like most seem to do, i do alot of freeway driving and lot of km's a year so didnt want an overly pricey oil, thou now i have a 1994 falcon work horse so the r33 is gona get some nice expensive royal purple, or

motul fully synthetic oil :) .

but even with that, iv never had a problem with hpr10, always stable oil presures, never burns any oil what so ever, even after a good hard tharshing at the strips

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http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/Sougi%20S%206000.html

Thanks to Birds I'm converted. After 3000k's the oil still looks good and could well be the best $80 for 5 litres I ever spent.

I live on the Gold Coast where can I get this from Autobarn, Cheaper Autos wherever ? don't recall seeing Gulf Western anywhere-- mind you I wasn't looking -- :)

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I live on the Gold Coast where can I get this from Autobarn, Cheaper Autos wherever ? don't recall seeing Gulf Western anywhere-- mind you I wasn't looking -- :)

http://www.autopro.com.au/products/product-range.html

Got mine from these guys or you could PM user "Birds". He's post #1171 page 59 in this thread.

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Complete nooblet here. What oil should I be using for my 32GTR? Made 356rwhp on 16psi and with tune should hit at least 400.

Also, it needs a few more L than normal cause its got a thingy :). The oil gets relocated from the bottom to the top to try and stop the self starvation during motorsport.

Finally, my mates for a 33GTR making around 270-280awhp. What should he use?

Thanks guys.

Edited by Ten Four
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what viscoscity oil should i use for a RB25DET gearbox? does this vary with the age/kilometers the box has done?

just destroyed mine, thinking it may have been wrong oil...either way i dont have third gear :D

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Wrong oil wont kill a box (unless you are using engine or diff oil by accident). My mate ran no oil for about 700kms in his rx2, was noisy as hell but it didn't die and is going strong now that its filled up.

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Wrong oil wont kill a box (unless you are using engine or diff oil by accident). My mate ran no oil for about 700kms in his rx2, was noisy as hell but it didn't die and is going strong now that its filled up.

yeah, mine was making noise for a while, yet to take it out of the car but im guessing either;

A. the fluid leaked out

B. diff oil may have been used, i remember something about ATF tho...

initially thought it was the thrust bearing, but after this im guessing it was the box. one of those things you learn i guess.

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I have been using motul turbo light 10-40w in my car since forever. Have read this thread before and I remember many people suggesting oils and then others bagging out said suggested oil. So i decided to go onto the Nismo website and they recomend a 15w-50w http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html . Also when I was at BEL garage the other day with the ITR he said that 10-40w is too thin for RB engines and agrees that 15-50 is on the mark. Could he be right?

Edit:

HKS also recomend 15-55w for RB engines.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/superoil/index.html

(scroll to bottom of page).

Edited by Jez13
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I have been using motul turbo light 10-40w in my car since forever. Have read this thread before and I remember many people suggesting oils and then others bagging out said suggested oil. So i decided to go onto the Nismo website and they recomend a 15w-50w http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html . Also when I was at BEL garage the other day with the ITR he said that 10-40w is too thin for RB engines and agrees that 15-50 is on the mark. Could he be right?

Edit:HKS also recomend 15-55w for RB engines.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/superoil/index.html

(scroll to bottom of page).

:) 4lt of the HKS 15x55 = JPY9975 = AUS$124.395c , change every 3000ks.

I thought the 10 x 40 would be ideal for everyday Australian conditions given that Nissans spec is 7.5x30 AFAIK , so what is actualy in the Nissan bottles ?? and is 15x50 a race floging only spec ?

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thats what everyone has been saying anyway. Not sure whether to trust nissan australia's understanding of the rb engines though. I am thinking of trying the nismo oil out. 3,000k service is fine by me as I will probably take 2 years to get that amount lol.

I didn't consider that oil viscosities varied on ambient conditions. I shall do some more investigations.

Edited by Jez13
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I've just put royal purple sae 10w40 in my s1 r33 gts-t, the only difference ive noticed compared to mobil synt S is that royal purple makes my car start up a lot smoother... better lube on bearings? the oil is f**kin purple.. wtf

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I have been using motul turbo light 10-40w in my car since forever. Have read this thread before and I remember many people suggesting oils and then others bagging out said suggested oil. So i decided to go onto the Nismo website and they recomend a 15w-50w http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html . Also when I was at BEL garage the other day with the ITR he said that 10-40w is too thin for RB engines and agrees that 15-50 is on the mark. Could he be right?

Edit:

HKS also recomend 15-55w for RB engines.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/superoil/index.html

(scroll to bottom of page).

Thats exactly what I was told by my mechanic. I was running 10W40 Royal Purple thinking it was the right weight and after one of my tunes he told me it was too thin for an rb26 and recommended to start using Castrol Edge 10w60 or something of similar weight, but because of Castrol's price its the way to go compared to Motul or similar and performs very well compared to some expensive ones. This is coming from a very highly regarded workshop so I think that its right.

Since then I have done some research and it seems like that alot of RB tuners recommend heavier oils and its all around 50-60 weight. I have been running it on Castrol Edge 10w60 for 2 years now and no problems at all it really seems to like it, and its around $75 for 5 litres. Its also advertised on their website that its recommended for GTR's. I would happily run Motul, infact its my prefered choice but its more than twice the price of Edge and I dont think its that much better to pay more that double for it. Paying close to $200 for oil and filter change every 5000k is way too expensive for me. If money is no problem go the Motul for sure its awesome oil.

I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere that Nismo oil is rebranded Motul 300v Competition 15w50 but with a bigger price tag it even has a Motul written on the bottle, so you might want to think about getting the Motul instead.

Cheers

Edited by miran1313
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These 15x50 -10x60 weights all seem to be aimed at RB26s, GTRs and modded cars that likely get a flogin, hows about the RB25s like mine that dosen't get pushed around much atall ?

I'm pissed with all oil brands ATM as none of the claimed synthetics, except Castrol, AFAIK, are actualy synthetic, they are all dino deridatives refined in the synthetic manner whatever the frak that means.

Silly me, they're oil companys, it means more $ for less :thumbsup:

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These 15x50 -10x60 weights all seem to be aimed at RB26s, GTRs and modded cars that likely get a flogin, hows about the RB25s like mine that dosen't get pushed around much atall ?

I'm pissed with all oil brands ATM as none of the claimed synthetics, except Castrol, AFAIK, are actualy synthetic, they are all dino deridatives refined in the synthetic manner whatever the frak that means.

Silly me, they're oil companys, it means more $ for less :thumbsup:

Yeh thats right mate they are aimed at RB26's and I was talking about them, i'm not sure about RB25's I dont think they would need to be that thick especially if only street driven and lightly modded, I think 10w40 would be about right.

Tell me about it, who the hell knows whats in them every second oil has synthetic written on it. Its such complex shit that its not that easy to work out whats good and whats not. I have read that there are hydroprocessed syhthetic oils (ultra refined mineral oil, group 3) that work as good or better than oils that are pure synthetic (PAO, group 4). Apparently mixes of several bases produces the best product, so you tell me which is the best oil out there and whats in it. People here talk about only using pure synthetic oil and that Motul 300v is 100% ester based etc, but they use Ester, PAO and Group 3 base stock to give the best product which is still a 100% synthetic oil. Motul says that they use double ester technology not that its mainly based on ester, apparently it contains between 20% to 30% ester. There are plenty of oils out there that are labeled 100% synthetic but all are blends of Ester/PAO/AN/GP3 or something similar which are still 100% synthetic and very good oils. Motul 300v in my opinion is still pretty much on top of list with Redline of the best oil's out there, because of their reputation and so many satisfied users out there, but it just shows that its very complicated with how they are made and advertised its not as simple as some might think.

Edited by miran1313
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i just purchased 6 litres of Neo Racing engine oil

10w-40 100% synthetic diester base

a reputable workshop put me on to this guy who sells it, i payed $160 for 6 litres (1x5litres and 1x1litre)

is apparently used in nascar, f1 etc. Made in USA

Neo has also helped set land speed records - including the fastest Harley Davidson (set at Bonneville). NEO helped Dale Armstrong engines set their hall of fame records. Over 50% of the European Formula 1 cars use some type of NEO product, and NEO helped the Draco team win two GM Lotus Euro Series Championships. By 1987, every Indy Car that ran a March Engineering Gear Box at Indy use the gear oils and CV joint lubrications developed by NEO.

www.neosyntheticoil.com

expensive stuff, but you get what you pay for, costs the same as 6liters of motul 300v chrono...nufin but the best goes into my RB26, better spend abit extra and put the best oil in the engine...

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:) Thought this might help those wantin to splurge,

NEO OIL - Australia

99 Bathhurst st

Sydney NSW 2000

Tel: 61-0 416 267 645

Fax: 61-2 9316 5480.

:P Me , Ive just changed my oil for Penrite HPR+10 (10X50) Semi Synthetic cost $39.98 +$12.00 for an OE filter.

I'm sick to the back teeth with the oil bullshit, I change my oil every 3 to 4 months, I don't flog or track my car , except for the exhaust it's stock and don't put more than 3000Ks on it in that period.

Whilst wanting to keep a high standard of maintenance I'm not going to give those farkin lying cheating bastard oil companys one friken cent I don't have to.

If I was going to pound the crap out of my ride I'd maybe start singing a different tune.

Just a couple of observations , the holes in the OE filter are quite small I wonder if this is a flow restriction effort ? I'm thinking that they were larger some time ago ??

Whilst Nissan still refuse to tell me what the recomended oil should be I noticed that two grades of Nissan oils were available for petrol engines a 7.5x30 and a 20x50, with the recent 15x55 15x50 HKS and Nismo racing recomendations makes you wonder ????

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