The Goods On Oils

[Birds]

i guess here is as good as anywhere to ask this:

i recently changed oil and filter, but not the pressures seem to be all over the place. before, on whatever sh!t the previous owner ran the car on, the oil pressure was just over 4 on start up, and just over 2 normally. but now, on startup its above 6, and in normal driving while warm will move from 2.5-4.5 depending on load.

i put that nulon "100% synthetic" 10w40 stuff in, and changed from an old, large oil filter to the nissan one, which is significantly smaller.

also, where is the oil pressure gauge? i tried to search for this but no luck

any insight would be great

thanks

How did you get those oil pressure readings if you are wondering where the oil pressure gauge is?

If it sits between 2.5 and 4.5 this is quite normal I wouldn't worry too much about it. The previous owner was probably running a 0w30 or 5w30 giving you lower oil pressures.

[KrazyKong]

How did you get those oil pressure readings if you are wondering where the oil pressure gauge is?

If it sits between 2.5 and 4.5 this is quite normal I wouldn't worry too much about it. The previous owner was probably running a 0w30 or 5w30 giving you lower oil pressures.

Wondered that myself. Galois, are you referring to Oil Pressure, or Oil Temperature? I don't know where the pressure gauge is on the 34, but on the 33, it's the one on the far right of the dash cluster.

[Neuroglider]

oil pressure gauge on the 34 is right below the speedo

[Galois]

*oil pressure sensor, not gauge. oops lol, soz for confusion

[KrazyKong]

Purchased some Sougi S 6000 (5L) today for $60 on the Gold Coast

If anyone else would like to purchase any, here are the details...

Chris Burck

3/8 Telford Pl, Arundel

QLD 4214

(07) 5529 0396

Google Maps

There's plenty in stock and Chris was very helpful and accommodating.

Chris also sells the M 5000 which is a semi synthetic (contains 30% polyol ester) in 5L bottles as well. Not sure on the price of this however. If the S 6000 is said to be on par with the Motul 300V Chrono, then the M 5000 would be in between the Motul 4100 Turbolight and 8100 Xcess?

Birds, I also saw this oil as well. It's a 10w/60 full synth. Description said it can be used on racing/street cars, to farm equipment and all kinds of things in between. You know anything about this stuff?

Edited April 8, 2010 by KrazyKong

[Birds]

Yep, it's basically GW's flagship oil. Full synthetic with a very wide viscosity range. It's great stuff, but I wouldn't use it in a daily driven Skyline. Way too thick on the warm temperature. Would be better suited to large displacement engines in a street application, like V8 Commodores and Falcons. We run it in our S15 race cars, haven't thrown a rod since using it

M 5000 is also a decent oil - it has much the same additive package as S 6000 only a shorter service interval due to less polyol ester content. Not a bad choice if you do 5000km changes. I'm obsessive so I do 5000km changes with S 6000 anyway lol.

Let us know how you go with the Sougi! Remember that this is a very detergent heavy oil so expect it to do something of an engine clean up - i.e. don't crap your pants when it comes out black, this does not mean the oil has broken down

[KrazyKong]

Yep, it's basically GW's flagship oil. Full synthetic with a very wide viscosity range. It's great stuff, but I wouldn't use it in a daily driven Skyline. Way too thick on the warm temperature. Would be better suited to large displacement engines in a street application, like V8 Commodores and Falcons. We run it in our S15 race cars, haven't thrown a rod since using it

M 5000 is also a decent oil - it has much the same additive package as S 6000 only a shorter service interval due to less polyol ester content. Not a bad choice if you do 5000km changes. I'm obsessive so I do 5000km changes with S 6000 anyway lol.

Let us know how you go with the Sougi! Remember that this is a very detergent heavy oil so expect it to do something of an engine clean up - i.e. don't crap your pants when it comes out black, this does not mean the oil has broken down

Ah that's interesting on the Gulf 1 stuff. Yeah the weight wasn't right for me, but was just curious what it was all the same.

I bought some Nulon engine oil flush stuff from Supercheap Auto. It says to run it for 10-15mins before changing the oil. Still havn't gotten a filter yet, but when I do, will do the oil change.

[08yannch]

just a little question about the Gulf 1 and its 10w60 viscosity. my understanding is that the 10w refers to the weight of the oil at cold start up and the 60 says to me that the gulf 1 will remain at a thicker consistency 4 longer right? (correct me if im wrong)

so wouldn't it be best to have the highest possible hot weight because this will produce a higher oil pressure 4 longer increasing engine protection and oil circulation?

so the gulf 1 with its 10w60 is better than a 10w40 weight oil because it can handle hotter temps and will also be better than a 20w60 because the oil will flow faster at cold start up?

or am i missing something

[Peter89]

i have a s14 (~190,000kms ) that rattles like an old truck. the source is either VCT or lifters. engine has strong compression for its age, (145psi) and doesn't blow any smoke.

currently i ran motul turbo light (10w/40) however a few friends claim using a heavier oil will get rid of the noise. im more skeptical.

also, the car is thrashed and will be taken to the track one day. might make the next deca.

thoughts?

Edited April 8, 2010 by Peter89

[pipster11]

just a little question about the Gulf 1 and its 10w60 viscosity. my understanding is that the 10w refers to the weight of the oil at cold start up and the 60 says to me that the gulf 1 will remain at a thicker consistency 4 longer right? (correct me if im wrong)

so wouldn't it be best to have the highest possible hot weight because this will produce a higher oil pressure 4 longer increasing engine protection and oil circulation?

so the gulf 1 with its 10w60 is better than a 10w40 weight oil because it can handle hotter temps and will also be better than a 20w60 because the oil will flow faster at cold start up?

or am i missing something

no because the engine is tolleranced so that when everything is warmed up a 40 weight oil will have the right film strength and heaps of other factors, the only time you go heavier is when the engine is worn a bit more due to old age or if you are heading to the track - they are still street cars and after a few hot laps things heat up pretty quickly so you will see higher oil temps than on the street which means thinner oil, so you put in a thicker oil to start with to counter it

i have a s14 (~190,000kms ) that rattles like an old truck. the source is either VCT or lifters. engine has strong compression for its age, (145psi) and doesn't blow any smoke.

currently i ran motul turbo light (10w/40) however a few friends claim using a heavier oil will get rid of the noise. im more skeptical.

also, the car is thrashed and will be taken to the track one day. might make the next deca.

thoughts?

give it a flush with some oil flush, if you wanna flush the crap out of it do as follows:

1. buy the cheapest oil you can find (woolies sells the el cheapo GW stuff for nearly $10

2. Buy 2 bottles of oil flush (i like the nulon one, you can use just 1 if you think its a bit over the top)

3. Buy you new oil and filter (I'd say try the penrite HPR 10w50 semi syn, filter is up to you)

4. Dump the old oil (leave the old filter on)

5. Put sump plug back in

6. In with the flush and cheapo oil

7. Run the car for about 20 mins (do not drive it)

8. Every 5 mins rev to engine to 2 or 3,000 rpm and hold for about 20 secs (causes a dishwasher effect inside)

9. Dump the flushing oil (should be really black)

10. New filter on

11. New oil in

12. Drive

[Birds]

no because the engine is tolleranced so that when everything is warmed up a 40 weight oil will have the right film strength and heaps of other factors, the only time you go heavier is when the engine is worn a bit more due to old age or if you are heading to the track - they are still street cars and after a few hot laps things heat up pretty quickly so you will see higher oil temps than on the street which means thinner oil, so you put in a thicker oil to start with to counter it

Spot on

There is such a thing as too thick at warmed up temperature. The goal of the multigrade is to stop it from getting too thin.

And high oil pressure isn't always a good thing, just a byproduct of thick oil. It doesn't necessitate good oil circulation. What does result in good oil circulation is the correct viscosity for certain engine tolerances at a given temperature (combined with a working oil pump of course). The most suitable multigrade viscosity you'll find for a small displacement, turbocharged, daily driven Jap car is 10w40 IMO.

[08yannch]

i just got

i knew i was missing something

well i have now looked at all the GW oil and it looks like good stuff and the price also seems to be right now all i need to do is find somewhere that sells it

thx 4 the help guys

[Peter89]

give it a flush with some oil flush, if you wanna flush the crap out of it do as follows:

1. buy the cheapest oil you can find (woolies sells the el cheapo GW stuff for nearly $10

2. Buy 2 bottles of oil flush (i like the nulon one, you can use just 1 if you think its a bit over the top)

3. Buy you new oil and filter (I'd say try the penrite HPR 10w50 semi syn, filter is up to you)

4. Dump the old oil (leave the old filter on)

5. Put sump plug back in

6. In with the flush and cheapo oil

7. Run the car for about 20 mins (do not drive it)

8. Every 5 mins rev to engine to 2 or 3,000 rpm and hold for about 20 secs (causes a dishwasher effect inside)

9. Dump the flushing oil (should be really black)

10. New filter on

11. New oil in

12. Drive

you know some car manufacturers state that using oil flush voids warranty on new cars.

i'd rather ran pure syn, might go with motul 300v (15w/50)

any other brands that make real syn?

[pipster11]

you know some car manufacturers state that using oil flush voids warranty on new cars.

i'd rather ran pure syn, might go with motul 300v (15w/50)

any other brands that make real syn?

no need to flush if you always keep up on oil changes, i only flush if there is some tappet noise or it looks gunky under the cam cover

will be keen to use sougi next change after hearing its got heaps of detergents in it

[KrazyKong]

you know some car manufacturers state that using oil flush voids warranty on new cars.

i'd rather ran pure syn, might go with motul 300v (15w/50)

any other brands that make real syn?

The Gulf Western Sougi S 6000 is a real synthetic. And then you got Royal Purple as well.

no need to flush if you always keep up on oil changes, i only flush if there is some tappet noise or it looks gunky under the cam cover

will be keen to use sougi next change after hearing its got heaps of detergents in it

I'm going to do a flush this change. I bought some Nulon oil flush treatment stuff, and 5L of the cheapest oil I could get. Ended up buying a Drift oil filter as it looked better quality than the standard Ryco one. So once the flush is done, the new filter and Sougi will start doing good things in my car

Edited April 9, 2010 by KrazyKong

[08r3308]

meh it's going to take a lot to convince me that GW is anything other than cheap rubbish being sold at $10-30 a bottle! Forum posts alone aren't going to change me from using Motul 8100 5w40.

nicely said , motul 8100 has been best in my line and i have tried many many diff oils .

its always that salesman try to sell you this new "hypo" oil which is better than anything on market lol.

motul on other hand has been around for while and if it is good enough for nismo its good for my car as well.

[RB25PWR]

Yeah I just starting using the 8100, it seems to like it. However I'll go 300v next time I think... 5w40 might be a little to thin I dunno...

[Birds]

i just got

i knew i was missing something

well i have now looked at all the GW oil and it looks like good stuff and the price also seems to be right now all i need to do is find somewhere that sells it

thx 4 the help guys

Hahaha nah it's good that you asked, it's actually a very good question and your theory behind it was mostly correct, just looking at it too simply. Oil is a very confusing topic because there are so many variables to it, hence why this thread was created. If you can't find someone in your area give us a hoy and I'll get a bottle mailed out to ya.

no need to flush if you always keep up on oil changes, i only flush if there is some tappet noise or it looks gunky under the cam cover

will be keen to use sougi next change after hearing its got heaps of detergents in it

This is true. Some people (myself included) are actually against engine flushing fullstop. We believe buildup becomes an organic (so to speak) part of the engine over time, replacing worn tolerance with a buffer. When you remove it you can do more harm than good. Different situations call for different measures though. Let us know how you go with Sougi...I've heard nothing but positive so far. I did have one complaint from someone about it being black when they drained it out, but that was from someone who didn't know that oil is there to clean and lubricate at the same time

The Gulf Western Sougi S 6000 is a real synthetic. And then you got Royal Purple as well.

I'm going to do a flush this change. I bought some Nulon oil flush treatment stuff, and 5L of the cheapest oil I could get. Ended up buying a Drift oil filter as it looked better quality than the standard Ryco one. So once the flush is done, the new filter and Sougi will start doing good things in my car

Yup Sougi is genuine. Royal Purple is awesome too. Heard good things about their oils.

nicely said , motul 8100 has been best in my line and i have tried many many diff oils .

its always that salesman try to sell you this new "hypo" oil which is better than anything on market lol.

motul on other hand has been around for while and if it is good enough for nismo its good for my car as well.

Have you tried 300v???

[08yannch]

i found a supplier in perth

leader lubricants there on oxleigh dr.

the guy there convinced me to try the PREMIUM GOLD but for $18 what could go wrong worst case i see is i do oil change at 2500km and doing that i still save $19 every 5000km and if im really not happy i will just try something else

note* they dont cary much sougi and will not get any in unless there is a demand for it. apparently it has taken them more than a yr to move a box of the 6000. it $55 for what they have left 2-3 bottles.

and while i was there i got some ATF for my auto $40 every 5L for the top spec GW so i saved $70 on that over all my wallet is happy and i will tell u how i go when i try out the new oil.

[KrazyKong]

i found a supplier in perth

leader lubricants there on oxleigh dr.

the guy there convinced me to try the PREMIUM GOLD but for $18 what could go wrong worst case i see is i do oil change at 2500km and doing that i still save $19 every 5000km and if im really not happy i will just try something else

note* they dont cary much sougi and will not get any in unless there is a demand for it. apparently it has taken them more than a yr to move a box of the 6000. it $55 for what they have left 2-3 bottles.

and while i was there i got some ATF for my auto $40 every 5L for the top spec GW so i saved $70 on that over all my wallet is happy and i will tell u how i go when i try out the new oil.

I used to use the $10 20w50 GW oil in my previous car. It had a leak and burnt a bit, so really I could have used anything in it and it would have done the job.

In my Skyline however no chance of that. The minimum for me would be a semi synth or a lower group "full synthetic". But ideally a proper genuine full synthetic and there are really only 3 options for that. Motul 300V Chrono, Royal Purple and Sougi S 6000.

Yeah interesting how Gulf Western have this great product but it's not sold anywhere really, at least not in stores. The supplier I went to said they sell it on a slow but consistent basis for people like us

I've been looking at GW's ATF fluid myself actually. You're talking about the Syntrans stuff? their fully synthetic one? It looks comparable to the other compatible ATF synthetics out there like the Nulon or Penrite stuff for well under half the price. Though the mack daddy of them all the Castrol Transmax Z is what I'd be interested to know how it stacks up against.

Have you changed over to the GW ATF fluid yet? Would be interested to know how your car goes with it in.

Edited April 11, 2010 by KrazyKong