The Goods On Oils

[siksII]

anyone tried penrite 5w50? $49.99/5L

is that good?

how about Motul 8100 X-CESS $74.99/5L

There are some comments on those oils on previous pages.. but to summarise, dont use 5w50 anything in an rb25, definitely use 8100 5w-40 for road/hard road use, good feedback all round and its 100% synthetic.

[Galois]

anyone tried penrite 5w50? $49.99/5L

is that good?

how about Motul 8100 X-CESS $74.99/5L

read mate, there has been so much on these oils in the last 10-20 pages.

you'll want either 5w40 or 10w40 for an rb, that's the consensus anyways. as long as the oil is group 4 or 5 and the right weight, you're fine. (some semi synthetic oils are not bad for just road use. don't use castrol magnatec or anything else seemingly cheap)

[toddlls]

have been running mine on 8100 5W40 now for 2yrs-never burns a drop

[08yannch]

a friend of mine had a real bad oil leak and he always complained about it. and then he just stopped. so i asked whats going on with the oil leak. he said to me its fixed no more leaking oil and i fixed it for free. so im like WTF. my friend said "i just stopped putting oil in" i then i heard the car running then i some more.

good times

[AzN]

Is 15w-50 Mobil 1 good for a standard R33 GTR?

[Moodles2]

Is 15w-50 Mobil 1 good for a standard R33 GTR?

Read what Galois said like 3 or so posts back:

read mate, there has been so much on these oils in the last 10-20 pages.

you'll want either 5w40 or 10w40 for an rb

In short, 15w-50 is too thick in both its cold and hot rating.

[Race__24]

Going to try some GW Sougi S 6000, to see how it goes. $60 for 5L is an awesome price for an ester based oil. It's a pity it's discontinued, luckily the local supplier has 6 boxes on the shelf. If it goes well i'll grab a box or 2.

[ηiяâdz]

motul 5w40 is the one for me

[NISMO]

Did a bit of a search but couldn't find what I'm after.

Does anyone have any info on whether Synth oil deteriates over time, without usage/much usage.

Being the paranoid knob that i am I'm changing my oil every 6 months or so. In my car that really only means 500-1000km of use.

The car is obviously rarely driven, but there's usually a track day thrown in within those 500-1000km's of use.

This is from Penrites site. I don't use Penrite but it was the one i found which referred to deteriation due to time.

Over time, the oil will deteriorate and become less efficient at providing good lubrication. Two main reasons are: 1. To remove contaminants that degrade the oil Moisture (condensation) Un-burnt fuel (ie fuel dilution) Soot (by product of combustion, especially in diesels) Oxidation and Nitration By-products 2. To refresh the oil Additives in the oil deteriorate over time. Detergents (that help keep the engine clean and neautrlaise acidic by-products), dispersants (that hold contaminants in the oil) deplete over time and even the anti-wear additives need to be replaced.

Other sites like Amsoil, really only refer to deteriation due to driving, eg heat stress on the oil

My typical usage will be

car started every week/2weeks

Driven maybe 50-100k's most months

Trackday every 6 months or so

[siksII]

Did a bit of a search but couldn't find what I'm after.

Does anyone have any info on whether Synth oil deteriates over time, without usage/much usage.

Being the paranoid knob that i am I'm changing my oil every 6 months or so. In my car that really only means 500-1000km of use.

The car is obviously rarely driven, but there's usually a track day thrown in within those 500-1000km's of use.

This is from Penrites site. I don't use Penrite but it was the one i found which referred to deteriation due to time.

Over time, the oil will deteriorate and become less efficient at providing good lubrication. Two main reasons are: 1. To remove contaminants that degrade the oil Moisture (condensation) Un-burnt fuel (ie fuel dilution) Soot (by product of combustion, especially in diesels) Oxidation and Nitration By-products 2. To refresh the oil Additives in the oil deteriorate over time. Detergents (that help keep the engine clean and neautrlaise acidic by-products), dispersants (that hold contaminants in the oil) deplete over time and even the anti-wear additives need to be replaced.

Other sites like Amsoil, really only refer to deteriation due to driving, eg heat stress on the oil

My typical usage will be

car started every week/2weeks

Driven maybe 50-100k's most months

Trackday every 6 months or so

I have a real world example in relation to your question -

During a period of last year I wasnt doing much driving - the car was parked for 1-2 weeks at a time and only driven on short trips here and there. Took it for a hard thrash maybe 3 times in that period. When i did oil analysis it showed there was a high amount of water in the oil - so condensation in conjunction with mostly small trips definitely has some negative effects. The oil was approx 6 months old and maybe 3000kms or so. Going by that - regardless of how many kms I have done if the car has been sitting around I would always recommend changing it every 6 months regardless of use.

[NISMO]

I have a real world example in relation to your question -

During a period of last year I wasnt doing much driving - the car was parked for 1-2 weeks at a time and only driven on short trips here and there. Took it for a hard thrash maybe 3 times in that period. When i did oil analysis it showed there was a high amount of water in the oil - so condensation in conjunction with mostly small trips definitely has some negative effects. The oil was approx 6 months old and maybe 3000kms or so. Going by that - regardless of how many kms I have done if the car has been sitting around I would always recommend changing it every 6 months regardless of use.

Thats exactly what i was looking for. I was just having second thoughts about dumping Grp V oils every 6 months with only 1000 odd k's on the oil.

I'm doing a track day this Weekend so am dumping the oil and putting in new stuff. I'm actually going to do regular UOA's on this to see whats it doing.

It will have fresh oil and will do a test straight after the trackday

Then a second one in about 6 weeks and take it from there

[siksII]

Im not sure what your car setup is like, mine is pretty stock and 1 track day will punish 8100 (group IV) 5w-40 - hence I usually change oil after track, then drive for few months or whatever, leave it in for the track, change again etc.

Im using 300v now but im sure the same will happen as I have seen on friends cars using fresh 300v the oil pressure drops a fair bit by the end of the day indicating the oil has thinned out. Oil temps have something to do with this but unless you have a very effective oil cooler chances are your oil will not be in good shape after the track.

[NISMO]

Im not sure what your car setup is like, mine is pretty stock and 1 track day will punish 8100 (group IV) 5w-40 - hence I usually change oil after track, then drive for few months or whatever, leave it in for the track, change again etc.

Im using 300v now but im sure the same will happen as I have seen on friends cars using fresh 300v the oil pressure drops a fair bit by the end of the day indicating the oil has thinned out. Oil temps have something to do with this but unless you have a very effective oil cooler chances are your oil will not be in good shape after the track.

Its a completely stock N1. Except for a Nistune ecu to correct fuel/air

I use 300V as well, and generally i don't punish the car at all at the track (as my times usually show, lol)

I'm using the largest oil cooler TRUST make for the 32. Sits horizontally under the car, and is extremely effective. I'm yet to see temps over 100-110, and even then thats after a few hard laps. Being that Wakefiled in the main track i go to, air temps of around 12 degrees usually help

So far I've been putting in fresh oil before each track day. Then drive it until the next track day, or 6 months, whatever comes first.

[siksII]

Its a completely stock N1. Except for a Nistune ecu to correct fuel/air

I use 300V as well, and generally i don't punish the car at all at the track (as my times usually show, lol)

I'm using the largest oil cooler TRUST make for the 32. Sits horizontally under the car, and is extremely effective. I'm yet to see temps over 100-110, and even then thats after a few hard laps. Being that Wakefiled in the main track i go to, air temps of around 12 degrees usually help

So far I've been putting in fresh oil before each track day. Then drive it until the next track day, or 6 months, whatever comes first.

Haha fair enough

I would say you have it the wrong way around - change after track and use that oil till after the next track. I say this since the oil doesnt get that bad between trackdays compared to the punishment on the track. In relation to water in the oil - if you take the car for a long drive it burns off.. ie on the way to wakefield.

[NISMO]

I'll def change it this time around before the track day as it has been around 6 months.

Once i get the new stuff in, I'll do the UOA on a regular basis and decide from there when to change it.

Thanks for all your help siks, much appreciated.

[Matt R34]

how about Motul 8100 X-CESS $74.99/5L

Just put this in my car, 5w40. Running like a dream, the idle is much much smoother now.

[Birds]

Rock on the semi/synthetic 40 weights

[NISMO]

I think I'm going to try the 8100 next.

As above ran the car on the weekend at Wakie with Chrono 300V, and really not that happy with it from just a "feel" perspective. It's like its just a little too thin or something. The car seems noisier and rougher compared to when i used Grp IV oils.

On a side note, my mate on the day with a 500kw at all 4 wheels GTR, used a semi synth called Brad Penn. Had a search on BITOG, and some mixed reviews but seems like a decent semi-synth.

[TALBO]

Anyone use Motul engine cleaner before dumping used oil? Is it worth doing?

[Galois]

hey mate,

using engine flushing chemicals has been debated a bit in the 60s pages (from memory). the idea is that the flush will remove all the build up in one go that a good oil might remove over a couple of changes.

the downside is that the cleaner will also strip carbon buildups in the engine which are thought to actually aid the engine, smoothing out the surface of the cylinders etc...

i wouldn't use one unless i had one, im sure others will have opinions on it too.

have a scan backwards, there's some good info in here on it