Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, I know that everyone has their own opinons but I was looking for some people's thoughts.

Basically I'm stuck between various different imports at the moment and I need some opinions from different people!! So I thought I'd list the cars along with my thoughts on them and see what everyone thinks....

1) R32 Skyline GTS-t (4 door or 2 door) - relatively cheap, easy to modify, not that quick (relative to the others here) in stock form but can be made to go reasonably quick for not much $$$, light, hard-core (that's a good thing!!).

2) R33 Skyline GTS-25t (2 door, the 4 door is ugly) - easy to modify, definitely hard-core, slightly heavy, quick even in stock form.

3) Soarer 2.5 TT - quick, difficult to modify, sporting but not hard-core, excellent cruising machine, solid as a house.

Basically I really like the Skylines (I can import an R32 for $10-12K if I wait till next year or an R33 for $15K) but I'm finding it hard to get past the value of the Soarer - it's heavy but built to last and it's great value at approx $17K.

Please convince me one way or another..... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22459-2-many-choices/
Share on other sites

I'd say go for the R32 GTS-t 4-door... do an SR20DET swap, slam it with R34 GT-R wheels, aero mirrors, and a TBO R32 front bumper. Sorted.

Also, I think the R32 4-door is one of the best EVER 4-door designs. Just beutiful IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22459-2-many-choices/#findComment-481621
Share on other sites

Yeah, I was originally hooked on the 4 door R32 GTS-t too!!

I figure I'll spend less money (the 4 doors seem cheaper cos they're less popular) up-front and then see where I go from there. If I'm lucky I'll find one with an air pod, big exhaust and maybe some other goodies. Hopefully I'll end up with something that does mid-14's? Seems quick enough for me... :D

BTW, what does "TBO" stand for? And why the engine swap to an SR20DET?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22459-2-many-choices/#findComment-481668
Share on other sites

"TBO" is a brand name. It stands for "Touhoku Bikkuri Oojisan":D

This is the TBO Front Bumper...

R32A36.jpg

About the SR20 swap, I just love how the SR20 almost entirely sits behind the front struts, almost like an S2000... when you get to be my age (28), you start worrying about weight distribution and other stuff like that. Also, if you buy right, you can get a much more late model SR20 than the origional RB20, and they've got practically the same power, so it's not like your going backwards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22459-2-many-choices/#findComment-481722
Share on other sites

Yeah, I've seen a modified R32 GTS-t with the SR20DET engine swap and it sits way behind the struts.

Anyways, back to my original post, I want something that I play with and improve and that makes me smile when I drive it (that's what you worry about when you're 31 and married!!) *grins*

And I think the Soarers are probably too boring!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22459-2-many-choices/#findComment-481780
Share on other sites

Sorry buddy, just a personal opinion.

My best friend likes the R33 sedan over the 2 door but I think they look too generic. I like the 2 door R33 much better then the sedan....but I like the 4 door R32 better then the 2 door. Take off the rear spoiler, lower it, slam on some five spoke rims and you've got a phat car.

Overall my personal favourite (like everyone else!!) is the R34 GTR but I'd "settle" for an R32 GTR. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22459-2-many-choices/#findComment-481896
Share on other sites

the advantages of the SR20DET when in an R32 is the near 50-50 weight distribution. aside from that, cost is lower when upgrading injectors etc. also PowerFC is available for the SR20 and i understand that PowerFC for the RB20s are rare.

this is what i read from Meggala :D might be more but i dun remember

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22459-2-many-choices/#findComment-481944
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.
    • Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.
    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
    • Well, yeah, obviously. But then you have a turbo with 270kW "design", meaning it will have the higher boost threshold and lag of a bigger turbo, but only doing the work of a smaller turbo. That's the suck. That's actually exactly where I am right now, because my stocker exploded and I got Tao to do a highflow for me. I got a low pressure actuator on it and don't push it past ~10 psi or so, where the stocker was being run at ~12 psi. it makes a little more power than the stocker did, but it lags like a bitch. But, if I run any more boost it starts to ping and the ECU goes into panic mode, which cuts all the fun, so it clearly needs to be tuned. But, until such time as I (which is not I, it's my bro-in-law) can actually get the dyno working again, and get some injectors, and do all the swap over of those and the R35 AFM, I can't attempt to use the turbo the way it really deserves to. So what I have now is something that drives worse than what it did before it filled the cat with little pieces of turbine. I will tune it eventually, and probably only push it up to ~250-270 rwkW, which is pretty close to the max for that highflow anyway. I would imagine that by getting the tune right, and with newer betterrer injectors, we can probably make the boost come on a little earlier than it does now.** And if I do not think that the top end reward is worth the low end sacrifice, I will sell it off and convert to a G30, because the smaller ones of those come on boost very nicely on a 25 and make more power than I realistically need or want. The only reason I didn't do it at the time the turbo blew up is that I wasn't ready to sink a lot of money into an Artec manifold, reverse rotation turbo, the AFM and injector upgrade that would have been immediately compulsory, and the dyno was being problematic.*** It was easier and faster to just put the highflow on. And then, as I mentioned in an earlier post, even that is not "easy", because Tao's highflows use a shorter core than the Hitachi, so the compressor housing moves backwards in the bay, necessitating that all of the pipework had to get modded. ** And maybe just maybe, check the valve clearances and put new shims through, because I have recently seen firsthand on another motor that sloppy clearances on the shims can cost a lot of effective timing and lift and really slow an engine down. 3S-GTE in a Caldina got new shims, closing the clearances from just above the max to right down near the minimum, and it is a massively different car to drive. On boost the better part of 1000 rpm earlier!
    • ooooooh so this is where they get posted  Was at a wedding that day anyway, but the next one I will be there for SURE.
×
×
  • Create New...