Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i'm getting error (34) from the ecu which is the knock sensor, the car runs like shit, really laggy high 1.5k - 2.5k idle....

but sometimes usually after 20mins of driving the error might go away and then the car is fine.

now i have read the sensors are next to cylinder 2 and 5 but that doesn't help much cause i have no idea what im looking for.

also i have read there is some resistor mod to trick the ecu, does anyone know about this?

its driving me crazy !!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224817-knock-sensor-error-34/
Share on other sites

yeah you can bypass the knock sensor with a resistor. where you put the resistor depends on where your knock sensor circuit has failed. There should be 2 sections of wiring from your ecu to the knock sensor. Would look be like this: [ECU-wiring loom-connector] and then [connector-sub harness- knock sensor]. Basically when your ecu will measure the resistance of this circuit and if you have say a faulty sensor or an open circuit this will cause your ecu to trip the error code which puts you in safety maps. This article isn't skyline specific (it's for a z32) but if you can find the knock sensor/ sub harness connector on your skyline you should be able to run the multimeter tests and figure out what size resistor you need and where you need to bypass it.

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugi...php?content.429

just remember that if you do bypass it your car is pretty much unprotected if it starts to detonate. i'd only recommend that you bypass the detonation sensor as a temp fix until you can replace the faulty sensor or fix the open circuit.

The errorcode is raised because there is a problem in the operation or circuitry of the knock sensors. It DOES NOT indicate that there has been knock.

The high idle will, therefore, be unrelated to this error. Search for fixes to the AAC or adjusting the TPS. Those are the 2 most likely causes of high idle.

alright thanks for the help guys ill get under the car during the weekend and see if i can find them :D

The errorcode is raised because there is a problem in the operation or circuitry of the knock sensors. It DOES NOT indicate that there has been knock.

The high idle will, therefore, be unrelated to this error. Search for fixes to the AAC or adjusting the TPS. Those are the 2 most likely causes of high idle.

yeh i have a feeling the high idle is unrelated but the knock sensor error is defiantly the cause of the car running shit so i plan to fix that then move on to the idle problem if it's still there.

are the sensors on the front or side of the engine? or both?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....馃ぃ) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
    • Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.
  • Create New...